William Creek, Lake Eyre and Coober Pedy

July 9- 10th

Blanche Cup and the Bubbler are two of the numerous mound springs that filter through the earths crust in this area. These small oasis are natural springs bubbling up from the artesian basin. The wetlands (although not very wet) provide habitat for native birds and animals in the area.

(P:- Great to be doing a Central Aussie road trip again, there is something special about the “Outback”. Dirt roads and tracks, wildlife, cattle and sheep stations are all part of the attraction. Not to mention the fine red dust that penetrates every gap in a vehicle or caravan, this dust seems all but impossible to remove completely once it has invaded the vehicle).

William Creek is our overnight stop and we arrive just after midday and settle into the park. (P:-The Author must have been asleep when we stopped and viewed South Lake Eyre -still a dry salt lake as no water has entered it from the recent flood waters filling Lake Eyre North). After setting up we spend the afternoon in the van while a wind storm blows dust around us and through everything. Blew the neighbours tent down and sand through his open door. We realise how small the van is when we are all cooped up for the afternoon. Em and Hugh claimed our bed and played UNO for ages. Philip and I made a break for it late afternoon to go and check in for our flight tomorrow. Not pleasant being out in the cold dusty wind. Weather forecast is suppose to be much better tomorrow. Over to the William Creek Hotel for dinner along with many others staying in the park. A lovely meal and some great momentos on the walls and ceiling.

Our flight day dawns clear and still, thankfully. We pack up and park outside Wrights Air ready for our flight at 11am. Alex is our pilot and after our safety talk allocates our seats. Hugh is lucky enough to have the front seat with Em, Philip and I next row back. We are doing the deluxe, 2 hour flight and once we are in the air we start to see the vastness of the area and how small William Creek is. Normally has 6 permanent population and over the tourist season they have 35. Our flight takes us out over the southern end of North Lake Eyre, then over the Warburton Groove along the Warburton River before flying over North Lake Eyre down the Warburton Cannel and then the islands long the southern side. We could see South Lake Eyre in the distance which still has no water in it. The water colours, sand colours, creeks and washouts make amazing patterns. It is expected to fill this year for the 4th time in recorded history.

(P:- We spot a few squadrons of pelicans, the numbers of these are expected to increase massively over the next few months. Some how they know the lake is filling and we were told they even fly in from South East Asia and Japan! Evidently they are smart enough to know there is water in the lake and a supply of fresh fish but when the water dries up and food diminishes some perish ( not smart enough to fly off to another location) nature is peculiar with how it works. Worth noting that 17% of Australia drains into lake Eyre it’s the lowest point in Australia at -15m (below sea level). Once the waters from the rivers feeding it enter the lake evaporation is the only way this lake dries out. We are privileged to see it filling with water- a rare occasion)

On our return to William Creek we load into the car and we are off. It’s lunch on the run today as we have to make it to Coober Pedy this afternoon. About 160k. Our drive takes us through Anna Creek Station, the largest Station in the world. It’s a pretty barren area with 1 head of cattle per 1 square kilometre.

11th July

Coober Pedy

We are doing Tom’s Opal Mine tour this morning. Quite an involved tour lead by Mila who has lived in the area for 55 years and has mined here most of that time. She had some stories to tell but wasn’t the best guide. After the tour we enjoyed scones and jam and cream and hot drinks before checking out some jewellery and making some purchases.

Back into town for some lunch and then to Fay’s Underground Home. Amazingly 3 women excavated this home with pick and shovel, adding extra rooms as necessary.

After trying some noodling without any luck we headed back to the van to catch up on a few chores before dinner.