In The Realm Of The Polar Bear

15-06-24 to 23-06-24

Hurtigruten Cruise

Bucket list items for this trip:-

Beluga whales,

Walrus,

Arctic Fox,

Polar Bear,

Calving Glaciers

(P:-Someone forgot the Arctic Fox).

For the next week or so we are on the MS Fram for the above cruise.

(P:- To be more precise it’s an “Expedition” complete with armed guards, Science Lab, Lecture rooms and seminars all about “things” up North).

Day 1 (15th) Flight from Oslo to Longyearbyen on the island of Svalbard. 78 degrees North. The most northern permanent settlement in the world. (P:- “Enter Air” was the equivalent to our budget airline “Jetstar” except it was “Jetstar on Steroids”! If the seats were any cheaper built we would a been sitting on old oil drums with Bale Twine for seat belts)!

A bus trip into town, a guided tour around town (not a big town so not a big tour), then lunch at the Radisson before checking in for our cruise before transfer to the ship by tender.

“Nothing ever stops still in Svalbard – the last stop before the North Pole” quote on a sign in town.

(P:-Now back to the Town Tour! Think Judith was asleep! Longyearbyen is home to the “International Seed Bank” where a very precious reserve seed collection of global seeds is stored in a deep (400m) underground series of warehouses where the seeds are kept frozen to -20 degrees C. I had heard of this and it was most interesting to see the outside of the supposedly nuclear proof complex. The doors are only opened for deposits 3 times a year. Longyearbyen has had a history of Coal Mining. High grade coal exported to Germany and used for the manufacture of high grade steels. There were many mines interconnected by a aerial tramway system to the treatment plant and wharf. Only one mine remains in operation and is due to close soon).

We settle into our cabin then check the boat out, dinner and a welcome from the Captain and Crew round out the day.

(P:- We were advised by the Captain and Expedition director that we would be kept busy and it was important to “Sleep Quickly” to fit everything planned in. Also had a safety drill and shown the survival suits. I think the survival suit may just prolong the agony of -1 degree C water)!

16th

During the night we cruise round to Kongsfjord where at 8.30am we dock at Ny Alesund. Ny Alesund, originally settled as a mining community operating from 1916-1929 and again from 1945-1963. The mine suffered several major accidents, the last in November 1962, led to the closure of the mine. After the closure of the mining operations, Ny Alesund gradually transformed into the modern research community it is today.

(P:- Ny Alesund was the launching point for the Race to get to the North Pole (not far over the “hill”) by Nansen, Paroy, Amundsen and an Italian Guy were the main leaders involved. The tethering tower for the Air ship is still there. There was a shop full of China made polar bear toys and a very good museum also).

The afternoon we spent cruising around Kongsfjord among the icebergs. Amazing glaciers, colourful icebergs and mountain views keep us entertained for the afternoon.

17th

Gravnesodden and Smeerenberg Glaciers

First Stop is Granesodden where we have a 360 degree view of mountains, glacier, small ice bergs and smooth waters. Majestic.

We have a tender landing this morning for a walk across the beach and up the ridge. This area used to be a whale slaughter area. Whales were dragged up onto the beach where their blubber was removed and boiled down to oil. It’s also an old cemetery area where Whalers that died were bought to be buried. It’s also a tern nesting area so we were slightly limited where we could walk. Just before returning to the ship a polar swim was offered. Water was 2 degrees so way to cold for me but Ian swam for Team Tassie. Go Ian!!!!

As we cruised to our next location for the afternoon excursion, we had a halt in proceedings as we watched a Polar Bear mum and her two cubs wander along the waterfront and then find a dead walrus/seal where they feasted for some time. Spent about 3/4 hour watching them. As there are estimated to only be around 300 bears on the island (61000 sq kilometres) we are very lucky to see them. Tick one off bucket list.

(P:- Every time we go ashore the “forward scouts” leave an hour earlier and “secure the landing zone”. The aim of this is to ensure none of us are eaten by the Ultimate Predator the Polar Bear. 8 of our Leaders are equipped with Flare guns and 30-06 Stainless Steel Japanese Rifles and rubber boat full of survival gear ( in case our mother ship sinks). One would think we were “way out West” but no we are “way up North)!

After lunch and afternoon cruising we stop at Smeerenburg where we head ashore again by tender. We spent time here watching a group of Walrus lounge on the shore. Huge lumps of brown lard with tusks. One relaxing in the shallow water, scratching and bathing. Tick 2 off the bucket list.

This place is so amazing. Glaciers everywhere you look, mountains and bays. The weather is turning it on for us. 6 degrees and 2 knot winds (barely a breeze) and flat water with barely a ripple. Hope it stays that way.