Kentucky Cruisin’

27-05-24 to 02-06-24

After leaving Paducah we drove straight through to Taylorsville (3.5 hours) to friends Tony and Judy. When we arrived we were excited and pleased to see their daughter Janelle and family were there also. We hadn’t seen any of our friends for seven years so it was great catching up. After a lovely afternoon and evening Janelle and family left for home. Hope it’s not 7 years before we see them again. We have the next 6 days with Tony and Judy so have lots of time to chat and enjoy their company.

Tuesday we visited Berea and the Artisans Village. They had some awesome arts and crafts there including quilts, leatherwork, jewellery, glassware and a variety of jams, pickles and sauces, most Bourbon based as this is a large Bourbon producing area. Another craft store further on had beautiful kitchenware, fibre work, basket weaving and yet more jams, sauces and pre-made dip mixes. Stopping for some lunch on our way home Tony took us to “Buccees”, described as a “famed gas station and convenience store with a fanatic following”. This Buccees has 120 gas pumps and 53000 square feet of space filled with food and gifts and all essentials for travelling. The food department served hot food, salads, rolls, sweets, fudge, cookies, cakes drinks and covered half the space. All food was beautifully pre packed ready to pick up and go. The brisket and rolls were all cooked on site and cut up while we watched. The brisket sandwiches were delicious, some of the best fast food we have had in America. The fudge was very good as well.

Thursday Philip and I drove out to Bernheim Forest where we walked around the lake and looked at the Forest Giants, 3 giant figure sculptures set throughout the arboretum. A gorgeous day and a lovely walk. Bernheim Forest is Kentuckys Official State Arboretum and covers an area of 16000 acres of wildlife sanctuary, a landscaped arboretum and a visitors centre.

Driving around the countryside here is just gorgeous. Large homes on expansive lawns, all beautifully mowed. Looks like they have GPS on their mowers the lines are so straight. Old and new barns, mown hay paddocks ready to be baled and large round bales, lakes and creeks and quaint towns. All makes this area most enjoyable. Very reminiscent of parts of Tasmania.

Friday we all drove to Bardstown, proudly hailed as the Bourbon Capital of the World. It is the official gateway to the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. Bardstown embodies small towns and has earned the tile of “Most Beautiful Small Town in America”. Our tourist brochure reads as follows:-

“Nestled in the heart of the Bluegrass State, Bardstown, Kentucky, exudes an irresistible charm that transcends time. Steeped in rich history and vibrant culture, our picturesque town stands as a testament to the resilience and spirit of its community. Beyond its renowned distilleries, the towns historic streets and well preserved architecture tell stories of a bygone era, while its warm hospitality reflects a modern embrace of tradition.”

Firstly driving through the main town area and then up through Stephen Foster Park (composer of Kentucky State Song “My Old Kentucky Home”) before heading back into town to stop at The Old Talbot Tavern for an early lunch. This tavern was established in 1779 and has hosted the likes of Jesse James, King Louis Phillipe, Abraham Lincoln and Daniel Boone. It’s known as the oldest stagecoach stop in America. Jesse James is believed to have shot bullet holes in a mural upstairs. The Tavern is now one of the oldest buildings in Bardstown. For lunch we experienced a true Kentucky treat, a “Hot Brown” Sandwich. This was originally created at the Brown Hotel in Louisville. It is served open faced with thick slices of roast turkey, crispy bacon, and fresh tomatoes on top of toasted bread, all smothered in a rich cheesy moray sauce. It was delicious and very filling. (P:- Better mention the “Burgoo” a hearty soup full of meat and veggies and also full of deliciousness for this soup Connoisseur ). After lunch we had a wander up the Main Street looking at the beautifully restored shops before we drove out to Lux Row Distillery.

Lux Row Distillery is situated on a 90 acre property on the edge of Bardstown, Kentucky. It is a relatively new distillery, built in 2018. It has production facilities comprising over 18,000 square feet and will have 10 Barrel Rickhouses (warehouses). While the Distillery is new they have been in the Bourbon business for over 60 years. They use a custom 43 foot copper still which produces over 3 million gallons of Bourbon a year. (50,000 barrels of Bourbon a year). Tony had booked for us to do the tour which was extremely interesting, taking us from the grain being delivered, to the fermentation process, barrelling and storage and finally the tasting. (P:- Backtrack a little! The tasting started around the fermentation process of the Mash tanks (yeasty and earthy taste) then after the first distillation process (Harsh tasting 180 proof I think an alternative use would be to Launch Mr Musks rockets into space as I think that’s where my tongue ended for a few minutes! Next was a help yourself with a “pippet” direct from a 5 year aged Barrel, unfiltered c/w small charcoal sediment in the decanted liquid).

Let’s just say that I will NEVER be a Bourbon drinker, (P:-Refer to facial expressions in following photo). but the chocolates served with the tastings were very nice.

(P:- Now for a slightly more detailed and accurate description of the tastings. 4 of their better aged Bourbons were sampled followed by a cleansing chocolate and water. They varied in smoothness and distinct individual flavours from mellow to a distinct charred oak taste of the longest aged Bourbon. Alcohol isn’t part of my diet these days unless it’s a Wine on Christmas Day or a special occasion. Being in the heartland of Kentucky Bourbon with long time friends Tony and Judy was just that “special occasion”. The tour was really well done, industrial and extremely informative). After relaxing in the sun for a short time for Philip to stop breathing Bourbon, as he is driver, we drove on to Heavens Hill Distillery where we watched a movie about their history and the devastating fire in 1996 that destroyed almost 100,000 barrels of Bourbon. Once the fire started it became almost unstoppable, jumping between warehouses, which quickly became an 18” deep river of burning Bourbon. Seven warehouses holding millions of gallons of Whiskey were destroyed as well as the distillery itself. Total value of losses was around $30 million.

(P:- A popular tourist activity is a Distillery tour (crawl) around the many distillery’s in the area, I have no doubt the consequences of multiple Bourbon sampling would create a disastrous tomorrow).

Saturday morning we are off again. This time just a short trip to Carriss’s for breakfast. Tony and Judy have been talking about this place all week so we are keen to go. We will know if it’s open because when it’s closed the old seatless chair will be in front of the door. First impressions are that it’s just a run down grocery and snack bar and once through the front door it’s a very old fashions grocery store with tables along one side. The owner greeted us as we stepped inside and pointed us to a table down the back. We seated ourselves and shortly after he came to our table plonked himself in the chair next to Philip and asked what we would like to eat. No menus here, he just reeled off what was available, fresh cut hash browns, eggs, biscuits and gravy, country ham, bacon, pancakes and toast and any combination of them. Philip tried the biscuits and gravy with hash browns and ham, I had hash browns, eggs and ham. Both delicious. The store was full of quirky things ie:- bottle of motor oil and various bolts and screws next to jars of jam and mayonnaise. Ammunition cartridges in a plastic container just sitting on the open shelf, lots of Coca Cola memorabilia mixed with snow shovels and rulers. Something to look at in every corner.(P:- Good ole country tucker in a good ole country store. I have been to some theme restaurants over the years but this place scoops the pool! Without trying it is the ultimate in themed restaurants).

Back at the house we are having a lazy day before flying tomorrow. Laundry, packing, writing the blog and enjoying the company. Janelle and the girls, Alyssa and Kinsley came for the afternoon so we could spend some time together again before we leave. Such fun to have good friends to share good times and fun memories with. (P:- Dobmac’s rural industry nature has given us many “Salt of the Earth”, genuine friends that Judith and I really appreciate).

Through the afternoon Judy showed us her family quilt where each of the family have made a block. Some great memories in this quilt too.

(P:- Tony, like me enjoys food and cooking. We also enjoy a good joke and laugh. Early in the week Tony mentioned he would make us a meal of “Swamp Soup”. (The look on Judith’s face,at the thought of it was almost like her “Bourbon face”). As the week progressed it was mentioned several times but it didn’t appear so we considered it a Tony Joke. Last evening it appeared, “robust” and very much looking like Tony dredged the Chitlans from the bottom of the local beaver dam! When tasted, the rich Swamp brown colour was overtaken by an outstanding flavour! Full of beans, onion, veggies sausage and shrimp and “Colonel Tony’s 11 herbs and spices”. I have the recipe and can’t wait to serve The Swampy mess to our next dinner guests).

(P:- Beautiful country road drives, rolling hills, American Farm houses and yards, corn fields, Hay fields and beautiful weather all make this place a scenic overload. One yard was even trying to grow old John Deere Tractors! Add to that the time spent with long time friends Tony and Judy. Many, many stories and memories shared (Of course Tony’s and mine were all accurate and free of any BS). A great way to end 3 weeks of visiting great friends and sneaking in a USA road trip down part of the Mighty Mississippi. As always sad to say goodbye to USA but hope to be back soon)!