Final Days in Japan

29-04-24

Muroran

We are off on a tour today. Heading into the country a short way, through agricultural land to Lake Toya. Lake Toya is a volcanic caldera lake. It’s is part of the Toya Caldera and Usu Volcano Global Geopark. The lake is almost circular and almost 10 kilometres in diameter, with four small islands in the centre. The deepest part of the lake is 590 feet and it never freezes because of the geothermal properties. The town of Toyako, on the shores of the lake has numerous resorts with hot pools available.

We board our “cruise” for the trip out to the largest island, Nakijima Island, enjoying great views of Mt. Yotei. A smaller version of Mt Fuji, about half the size. After cruising the lake we drive up to the observation deck for views over the lake and of Mt Usu, where we will be stopping after lunch.

Philip is more interested in the agricultural land surrounding the Observation/Restaurant than he is with the views of the lake.

(P:- This area, situated at between 41 and 42 degrees North is a similar latitude to Tasmania is South. Research had told me this was the main Potato and temperate vegetable growing are in Japan. Immaculate farms, larger than we have seen previously, dominate the drive today. It’s early spring and the first of the tillage and planting has begun. Enuff of the Temples, Castles and Cherry Blossoms next visit will be planned around late spring / early summer when the farms are looking their best! I have researched where the best ancient terraced farming is and other production areas so it’s on the bucket list. This area is a Dairy production area also and Forage crops are looking fresh and green).

We are lunching with 3 other bus loads of people but boy have they got it well organised. Each bus has their designated seating area and the meal is laid out ready for us. Slices of meat, fresh egg, soup heating in a bowl with onions, mushrooms, udon noodles and a bowl of rice. The idea is when the soup starts to boil, place the meat slices into the soup and crack the egg on top. Sounds funny but was very tasty. Quite a few screwed their noses up without tasting but generally most enjoyed the experience.

Back on the bus and we are headed to Mt Usu Ropeway and Observation deck. Mt. Usu is an active Strato volcano and has erupted four times since 1900. 1910, 1944-45 which created Showa-shinzan (a baby volcano), 1977 and March 31, 2000.

We ride the Ropeway Cable Car to the viewing deck and then climb the 126 steps to the Observation Tower for good views over Mt Usu crater, with smoke wafting out in several places.

On the opposite side we have good views of the new lava dome which was created between December 1943 and September 1945. Initially a series of earthquakes hit the area and uplifted the wheat fields. Lava broke through the surface and formed the dome as it is today. 398 metres tall and still actively smoking. After returning down the Ropeway we are back on the bus and returned to the Port.

Today we have seen the last of the Cherry Blossoms. Mostly the pink Sakura, the wild Cherry Blossoms. These are more natural settings along roadsides and up mountains.

(P:- Japan’s Cities and Towns we visited are predominantly settled on low lying flat ground with mountains rising immediately behind the population areas. They have large breakwaters to calm the oceans. It is much easier to understand the damage a Tsunami has and would cause in these cities. I was also amazed by the continuous mountain ranges of inland Japan).

30-04-24

Kushiro

This is our last port in Japan and our first day of Japanese Rain. We dock at 7am and have to be back on Board by 1pm so only a short stop. After breakfast we don our wet weather gear, jackets, rain pants and boots and head out to catch the shuttle into the centre of town. From the shuttle stop we walk for 10 minutes to the Washo Fish Market. A local market with some wonderful sashimi stands, raw fish displays, crabs by the dozens in all different sizes and one large halibut.

After checking all the displays Philip decides it’s time to taste. (P:- Nothing in my rule book saying 9.45 am is too early for Sashimi). The idea here is to get a bowl of rice the. Take it to the stand you like the most and choose the sashimi that you want to taste. Anything from salmon to shrimp, whale to squid, raw octopus, and crab of all sizes. You pay for what you choose to eat. A great idea and a good way to taste different things. (P:- Got to give it to the Japanese they do the fishy thing well! Everything is spotlessly clean and fresh. I have no sense of smell but my offsider ( Judith) who usually comments on smelly fish markets tells me there isn’t even a “fishy” smell. A comment she has made many times here in Japan. There was a very dark red fleshed fish on display, my photo to text translate app tells me it is whale. I point and the lovely lady selects a sample of a few different species of fish and seafood for us to sample. For scientific purposes only this included a small piece of whale. The rich red whale sashimi didn’t rate too well, my scientific experiment told me not to rush back for more!)

After tasting the sashimi and finishing off with some crab, we return back to the shuttle area and the more touristy market at the shuttle stop. We had intended to go out to a park today just to get some walking in before our days at sea but the cherry blossoms are barely in bud here and the weather is not getting any better so we head back to the ship. Instead of waiting in the long line for the shuttle we jump in a taxi which costs 2950 yen, about $30.00, back to the ship. We have to clear customs as we reboard as tonight we depart Japan heading North east towards Alaska.

We have thoroughly enjoyed Japan. The food has been beautiful and we have tasted many new things and eaten in lots of tiny Japanese cafes. (P:- Don’t forget the wonderful street food Judith- It was amazing). The people are all very friendly and helpful. It is beautifully clean and they have the most amazing public toilets, heated seats, music playing so person next door doesn’t hear you pee, spotless floors and basins and no smells. Most ports have put on a show as we depart with dancing and music and families waving and yelling as we sail away. We will return one day.

(P:- We have a few day sloshing around in the North Pacific to get to our next destination Kodiak Island (Alaska). When we booked the Cruise Judith, ( who prefers smooth tropical waters), and I discussed that these few days may be a tad “rocky”. I enjoy keeping an eye on Marine traffic, Weather and what’s in the night sky etc while travelling. I noticed a few days ago that a couple of low pressure systems were beginning to build up in the direction of where we are heading. The captain announced he would be slowing down to let the storm/s clear and would divert some of the trip and travel to Kodiak via the Bering Sea which will be more sheltered. 12 hours in we are in 60-70 klm winds and 3-4m seas, the Westerdam has a gentle but comfortable rock. I notice on the weather maps 200 klm ahead of us are Gale Force 100-125klm winds and and 6-8m seas. They pay the Captain to worry about that so I can worry about what s for lunch!

As we depart Japan, we do so with great memories and experiences. Language wasn’t too much of a worry and my interpretation caused a laugh or two. I had a stiff neck and went to a pharmacy and in my bestest sign language and drama indicating my stiff neck the young lady smiles and beckons me to follow. She hand me a carton and says very very good with a thumbs up. I get back to the ship and rub some of the Bright Yellow ointment on my neck – nothing happened! I translated the Japanese on the box and discovered I had rubbed the Fermented Mature (Pus coloured) Pig’s Placenta ointment on my neck. Not sure what it was supposed to do but it never fixed my neck!