The Road to Eagle and Chicken

27th

Retracing our travels along the Top of the World Highway we are surprised at how the Fall colours have dulled off, changing from golds to dark/orange brown. The mountains today have been in full view with clear skies and no fog or smoke haze. We passed through the border checks quickly and turned off at the Jack Wade Junction to drive down to Eagle. This 65 mile gravel road is located at the end of the Taylor Highway on the Yukon River. The Milepost (our Alaskan travelling bible) states “the road is narrow, winding, gravel, no shoulder or soft shoulders and steep drop offs. Be alert for oncoming traffic on blind hills and curves”, and they weren’t kidding. It was not my favourite road, especially the steep drop offs. In places the road clung to the side of the mountain as we descended the many hairpin bends and steep curves. But the views were great and as long as I didn’t look down and Philip drove in the middle of the road all was good.

(P- The sedation of Judith I mentioned on a previous day of challenging driving conditions should have happened today! It was rather a quiet drive with little conversation especially on the 7 mile downhill with a 5-800 foot almost vertical drop off on Judith’s side!)

About a third of the way down we came to the Forty Mile River and stopped for lunch. Walking over the bridge we could see gold dredges skiffs and small hovercrafts tied up along the bank. This is one of the very few areas where you can still own a claim that has river frontage and extends into the river to mine for gold. After lunch we met a guy who has been gold mining here.

(P- I wander over and say hi- not knowing what the response would be! The response consumed the next hour of our day. Asking him how he mined and did he get any gold at all? He dredges for gold, suited up in a hot water heated dry suit and breathing apparatus. It’s heads down and feet up in the cold sometimes murky, fast flowing Alaskan River ( Forty Mile River) and does he get gold? Out comes the clean up dirt he will take home and pan out, small nuggets of gold clearly visible, then a container of gold particles ( evidently the money maker) and then a Jar of nuggets! He then hands some of them over to Judith to hold while we listen to his mining stories (we thought about as stretched as fisherman stories until he produces the photos as evidence). I suggested a bit of cash for a nugget at a mutually agreeable price would be a great Alaskan Souvenir! Kent was out with the gold scales quicker than I could say CASH – Judith chose her nugget and the deal was done! What a fun hour or so in backwoods Alaska! And never let it be said I never buy Judith Jewellery! )

Continuing on round more corners and over bridges along valleys we drive past the American Summit Liquor Store and Snack Bar. It’s no longer open but you have to wonder why anyone would open a liquor store and snack bar out here in the middle of nowhere on a barren hill where it gets snow for 9 months of the year and the road is closed for six-eight months. Someone must have had a dream I guess.

Continuing on we reach Eagle and drive around town before heading up to the campground. We set up camp, we have a choice of 16 sites as no one else is here, and pay our $12 camp fee.

Then with bear spray in our pockets we walk back into town and around the few remaining buildings of Fort Egbert.

(P- on the way we meet an older gent walking our way, we stop and exchange greetings, and he shares some of his 50 years he has spent in the Isolated town of Eagle. Most interesting to hear how they survive the winter, ensuring they drive their pickup to Tok ( the nearest major service town 180 miles on a slow road away) and fly in and out in a Bush Plane as there are no Roads from end of September till March or April. He asked Judith did she know how to use the Bear Spray she had on her belt, lifted his jacket showing us his and saying never be without it. He shared his close encounter Bear story (probably same exaggeration as Fishing stories) the story ended that he won and the Bear tasted great! – another 45 minutes gone in discussing Alaskan life.)

Then stroll down the grass runway towards the old town of Eagle and the Yukon River. Several Bush airplanes are parked along the strip. Quite a few quirky local buildings that we wander around before making our way back to the RV, collecting some small brush to start our fire with on the way. Philip gets the fire going and it’s the best one we have had here in Alaska. Finally dry wood and sticks that burn with some heat.

While we are cooking dinner we are amazed when a tour coach drives into the campground followed by a truck. Then after 10 minutes they both leave. Later while having dinner a guy walks passed and starts chatting with us. He is a Professor of History at an Anchorage College and has just arrived with the bus load of 17-18 year old school kids who tomorrow morning will be starting a rafting trip down the Yukon for 10 days, leaving the river in Circle about 150 km away. What an experience for these kids and a great way to start their school year.

28th

Departing Eagle this morning and we have to retrace our route 65 mile back up the range, round the steep winding narrow roads. I can hardly wait. Luckily we only meet one vehicle as we were coming out. I was very glad to get back on the main road.

(P- It was also a very quiet last 7 miles as we drove along the cliff side. The co-pilot was operating in nervous quiet mode again. To me it was another great road to drive!)

Chicken was our next stop (we stopped at the Chicken Roadhouse when we passed previously) where we checked out the mining dredge, souvenir shop and the mercantile and cafe. We had been told the cafe had great chicken pot pie but alas none today. They had run out of chicken and as the season ends next week didn’t restock. Got some nice blueberry and cherry pie slices for dinner tonight.