Valdez to McCarthy

31st July

A “big day” today as we have 180 mile to drive to reach McCarthy! Leaving the campground we fill up with fuel and propane, then a stop at the supermarket for water and some fruit before stopping at Easy Freeze to pick up our packaged and snap frozen salmon from yesterday. Once all this is done we head out of Valdez to Point Alison and Solomon Gulch Fish Hatchery where we watched the salmon trying to swim up stream.

From here we head up the Richardson Highway through Keystone Canyon and passed Horsetail and Bridal Veil Falls then up and over Thompson Pass. The day is clear as we leave but as we climb the pass the mist rolls in and hangs heavy over the mountains. We are told the views are great here but not at the moment. Luckily as we descend the northern side of the pass the mist clears and the views are spectacular. We stop on the roadside to watch an eagle protect it’s prey that is squashed on the middle of the road. Numerous vehicles stop and watch as he sits on the fence and then a snow pole. Just down the road we pull into a stop to view Worthington Glacier. This is one of the most visited glaciers as it is so accessible to the road. We only stop for photos as we will see more glaciers later today.

We turn off onto the Edgerton Highway which will take us into McCarthy. We are heading away from the main tourist route and traffic is getting less. Off this road there are spectacular views of Mountains, Mt Drum being the most obvious, and it’s huge, small farms (homesteads) with bales of hay, cattle and even some Tibetan Yaks. We pass tiny communities consisting of a church, a store and maybe some fuel and a few homes. Then it’s onto gravel for the last 58 mile of the road up along the Copper River and Chitina river until we reach “Base Camp” at the Kennicott River. This road was built along the old Copper River and North Western railway bed. Old rail ties and rails are still embedded in the road surface. The road ends a little over half a mile from McCarthy. There is so much to see as we travel this area. First up is crossing the Copper River bridge where we could see people dip netting on the banks of the river and fish wheels operating. From here we enter the Wrangell–St St Elias National Park and Preserve. There are lots of marshy areas, lakes, moose and duck ponds but unfortunately no animal sightings today.

We cross the Kushkulana Bridge. This former railroad bridge was built in 1910 and is 525 feet long and 238 feet above the river. It is only 14 feet wide and until a few years ago had no guard railings along its sides. I’m glad it has them now. Next stop was to view the Gilahina River Trestle. This is where the railroad was built up and around a curve to cross the river. This timber structure was an awesome feat of engineering. The 13 mile section from Kushkulana to Gilahina was built in just 17 days. Wooden trestles like this were common along this railroad with a total of 273 over a span of 30 miles. In January 1911 when this trestle was built the temperature dropped to -67 F. It was so cold timbers cracked from being frozen, the ground had to be blasted to set the piles but workers rose to the challenge and had this trestle built in just 8 days. A very impressive feat.

Reaching “Base Camp” just near the Kennicott River we book in and then drive round to find the perfect site. On advice we stay away from the rivers edge where the river is roaring over small rapids, (would be very noisey at night) and head away from the river to a spot with views of the Kennecott and Root Glacier.

McCarthy is now only 1/2 a mile away but is only accessible for tourists by a pedestrian bridge over the river and a short pleasant walk. (P- the term “pleasant” wasn’t what I heard Judith exclaim as we went to cross the narrow pedestrian bridge which had a grated base that she could clearly see the water cascading underneath her as she outpaced an Olympic walker to get back to Terrafirma on the other side). We wander around McCarthy, a very small rustic community, pub, grocery store cafe and museum and a few homes before heading back to the River to organise some dinner.

1st August

Today is Kennicott Mill Tour and as this is what Philip enjoys he can write about it…..

(P-McCarthy as historians tell us was established as a locomotive turn around area and also served as a “Wet” town for the neighbouring company mining town of Kennicott ( which was alcohol free). It also became well known as a town of ill repute. Kennicott’s purpose was as a mill town to process copper ore from 4 underground mines in the mountains some 3-4000 feet above the processing mill. This all happened around 1912 – 1938. The majority of the 14 story hills side building and some of the town still exists and is maintained in a state of “arrested decay” by the National Parks Service. We have seen this often in the USA and it is so wonderful to see history maintained for us to view. The tour thru the 14 stories, treatment rooms, power house etc was fascinating and the structural and mechanical engineering amazing for being over 100 years old. Although this was a series of mines and mill for copper there was enough silver recovered as a by product to pay the cost of operation of the mill. That’s enough, use Dr Google if you wish to find out more!)

While waiting to do the mill tour we check out and book the Glacier Tour for tomorrow morning. Nothing like trying something new.