Pardoo Station and Pannawonica DUST

Our next stop for a few nights is Pardoo Station, run by Pardoo Beef Corporation. Although this station is not on the beach front, there is access to the beach at Pardoo Creek, Red Point and Mount Blaze. This beach area is still part of the Eighty Mile Beach Marine Park. There is a lovely park here complete with swimming pool which we frequented each afternoon.

After waking to a very heavy mist shrouding the caravan park we whiled away the morning doing some jobs, washing, cleaning etc. waiting for the fog to lift. Late morning we packed our lunch and took off for a drive out to Pardoo Creek about 4 kilometres away. We were expecting a nice beach but at low tide the creek is almost empty and the sand/mud flats roll on for miles. It is quite eerie with the fog hanging low over the mud flats and mangroves, but is great for some different photos. Talking to some fishermen here we found that there is at times a 6 metre tide range although today it’s only going to be about 4.75 metres, which brings the water level up to the top of the creek banks but not over the mud flats. Walking out onto the flats we watch fishermen disappear into the fog, we can see stingray shapes in the sand, red crabs scurry away as soon as we get close by, and the mud/sand is so fine it clings to our feet and is very soft to walk on. After spending some time chatting we head off just as the fog starts to lift, driving along the top track around the beach front/sand flats towards Red Point. Then on to Banningarra Creek. This creek is much like Pardoo Creek, steep banks, silty with beautiful blue water just starting to rise as the tide comes in. It looks so tempting to swim, that is until as we are watching the fisherman a 2.5 metre shark cruises up the creek and then several more smaller ones. Guess we will stay out of the water today. There are also turtles swimming up the creek and a few fish being caught, although they aren’t very big. We sit and enjoy our lunch while watching the fishermen, turtles and sharks and enjoying the beautiful day now that the fog has lifted. Driving back towards Pardoo Creek we are lucky enough to see dozens of Brolgas along the sides of the road and enjoy watching them for a while. We stop back in at Pardoo Creek to actually see it now without fog and at today’s high tide. The pelicans are enjoying some of the rewards from the fishermen. They know where to get a good feed.

Returning to the van we enjoy a refreshing swim before thinking about dinner. Its been another great day, enjoying new experiences and hopefully getting some great photos. (P) a good feed of slow grilled bbq’d beef ribs hit the “spot” this evening. The Butcher shops up north sure have good meat and always a story or two to share about something, someone, or just fresh from their imagination it’s always interesting or a good laugh. Ribs tonight and roast duck tomorrow night- A tough life it is indeed)!

Pardoo Creek
Pardoo Creek

Pardoo Beef Corporation is part owned by a Singaporean Billionaire, Bruce Chueng ,who made is money in the Duty Free business, paying $13 million for the station in 2015. He was attracted to it after being told a largely untapped fresh underground river ran under the

200,000-hectare cattle station, and irrigation licences were available. He has spent $20 million on 18 centre pivot irrigators to water 840 hectares of pasture and is planning more.

(P) over the last few months we have camped on several working cattle stations, from rustic to fully serviced campgrounds we have really enjoyed the experience. Access to remote beaches, “breakout” (cliff and crater) country, waterholes, rivers, wildflowers, river gums, cattle, mustering, old sheds, machinery and most importantly awesome “ salt of the earth” country people. We will continue this style of camping in the future, way better than town and city parks full of “yuppies”!

Friday 3rd September

Pannawonica and the Robe River Rodeo

Dust, dust, dust and more dust, but what a fantastic couple of days. This was on Philips wish list. He has wanted to go to Pannawonica, (where the Rodeo is held) since we first passed this way early in our trip. He purchased tickets a couple of weeks ago so here we are, not quite knowing what to expect. Camping is on site and what a site it is, acres of flat dusty plains edged by a railway line with huge trains passing regularly and on the opposite side a rodeo arena and camp draft arena. We arrive about 10am Friday morning so we can watch some of the camp draft, which we don’t really understand yet and then tomorrow for the Rodeo. There are bands playing tonight and tomorrow night. When we arrive there are a few vans and camper trailers set up so we find a spot towards the rear ( we thought) and settle in.

Heading over to the arena we find a spot and park our chairs under what little shade there is and hope to learn something about camp drafting. Luckily we have seated ourselves next to a competitor who had completed her events yesterday and was now quite happy to talk us through the finer points of Camp Drafting. There are two parts to the event with horsemen/women selecting a beast from a mob of 3-7 cattle ( depending on class competing in) in a small yard called the camp then pushing it through the gates and then round markers in a particular order to pass through the final gates all within 40 seconds. It takes quite some control from the rider and there are lots of intricacies that are included but it’s good watching.

Country Girls Chat Group

In between learning about the camp drafting we also introduced ourselves and found out that Gemma (Cripps) was from Gabyon Station, 1165 kilometres south. Gemma’s transit to the Campdraft was approx 17 hours in her old Isuzu stock truck, upon arrival moving her 4 horses out and sleeping in the back of the truck, like many of her fellow competitors. Campdrafts are one of the most anticipated events on a lot of Station people’s very limited social calendar. Gemma and her mother run Gabyon Station and Station Stay, Recently and sadly due to dementia her father is in a care home in Perth an 8 hr drive away (One way). They have been on the station since 2009 and run sheep and cattle. She was very interesting to chat to all afternoon and at some stage we will try and stay at their station. (P) Gemma and her mother seem to run an interesting operation. Of interest to me are not one but TWO historic wool sheds and a personal invitation to travel the (water) bore run on the 650,000 acre property. I will be declining the offer to ride in Gemma’s Gyrocopter she flies for mustering etc. I am not quite ready to be labeled a “temporary Australian” so will pass on that if offered!

Today, Saturday, has been rodeo day, starting off with the kids at 7am with horse games and barrel racing. Lots of parents helping tiny kids on big horses, all have lots of fun. It’s great to see so many station families taking part and helping each other.

Late morning I went back to the van for a while to get out of the sun. Was sitting reading when dust started whirling round, I head into the van just as a Willy Willy shakes the van and awning and as it passes by picks up tens and swags, towels, hats and whatever is not pinned down. There is stuff flying everywhere and people rushing round trying to pin stuff down. What a mess, the dust in the van now covers everything because all the windows and vents were open to let the fresh air in. Oh well it will clean up later.

Back at the rodeo arena, bare back broncs, bull rides, barrel racing

(P) I note no mention of the morning “siesta” that was taken whilst Judith was supposed to be reading!

Rodeo “Highs” and “Lows”
Proud Australians
Pannawonica Dust
Wildflowers on way to Pannawonica

One thought on “Pardoo Station and Pannawonica DUST

Leave a reply to Helen Adams Cancel reply