It’s Raining on the “Wrong” Rock

8th June

We are up and off early this morning as we have 300 plus kilometres of gravel road to reach Mt Augustus. We have debated several times whether we would visit Mt Augustus as it’s in a pretty isolated area and you really have to make the effort to visit. Anyway with the forecast wet at the coast (and not inland) it gives us the excuse to head this way. We are not disappointed, the drive through ever changing country, crossing dry creek and river beds, dry barren plains, gibber plains, lightly wooded areas, jump ups, and passing wonderful vistas has made the day enjoyable even if a little long. The road was slow, although a solid dry road it was rutted and slightly corrugated in places but we finally made Mt Augustus about 4pm. No sooner had we set up our camp here (staying two nights) than Road Closed signs were put out. That was a bit ominous and as we have no phone reception we can’t check weather reports. Not to worry the rains are suppose to be only along the coast with 3mm predicted here.

(P) Yesterday was a very scenic drive. Despite several weather checks we have potentially stuffed up the direction we have travelled! The John Williamson song “ It’s raining on the rock” sounds out true to us this morning But it’s the Wrong Damn “Rock”! They claim this rock is larger than its Central Australian cousin but to us it is invisible enshrouded in grey cloud!

Judith was suggesting a few days in one spot may be good- perhaps Mt Augustus Station and it’s camp ground wasn’t exactly the resort location in her mind? We woke this morning to rain, wet roads and fresh sloppy cow dung around the camp, after all it is a working cattle station – the muster scheduled for Monday has been postponed due to the unscheduled wet.

It’s wet, wet, wet and as the day progresses it gets wetter. Talking to staff here we had 10 mm overnight and another 30mm through the day. This makes for water lying everywhere. Heavy grey skies block our view and the road closed sign looks as though it will be in place for a few days a least. Philip is like a caged lion and this van is nowhere near big enough to keep him entertained if this rain keeps up for too long. Late morning after I have cooked apple muffins and cleaned a couple of drawers we don our Oilskin coats, Akubra hats and sandals, (it’s a great look) and paddle over to the office/shop to have a talk to staff there. She has decided to open the bar/lounge between 3 and 5 tonight so people can get out of their vans and spend some time together. As we walk back to van we get a small glimpse of the rock but it’s quickly covered in cloud again. More rain as the day wears on and Philip paces the van. Back to the bar at 3 and there are about 20 others there and we enjoy a great 2 hours finding out where others have been and are heading to. Road conditions have been compared and discussed and routes out of here debated. While we are enjoying everyone’s company the wether starts to lift and we are finally getting to see some of Mt Augustus.

Overnight we get a few more showers but we wake to a semi clear morning and a sun spiking through. After breakfast we decide to walk from the campground to Gum Grove and Kotja gorge about a 12 k round trip. This could be all we see of Mt Augustus as the road around the rock is still closed and as soon as they open the road to Meekatharra we will be heading out.

The walk into the gorge was great. Only the last 2 kilometres was climbing over rocks and along a creek bed. We sat at the end of the gorge and had a drink and something to eat before filling our water bottles from the small creek that was running from under a large rock. Back to the van after 3.5 hours walk. We are heading back to the bar later armed with Philips IPad to show a couple of the others some places that we have been and they can show us where they’ve been.

Thursday 10th June

(P) I clearly note Judith has Omitted the correct date on the above Kotja Gorge walk which we did on the 10th. Why one may ask? Most probably because she forgot my Birthday!!! I just laid low on comments until she realised. Sometime between 10 and 11 am, I was wished a happy Birthday ( after I had received other greetings from friends and family who knew our Satelite Phone number). Having published the above I won’t be admitting as to how many significant dates I may or may not have forgotten!

Friday 11th.

Today we woke to semi clear skies and a light breeze which is nicely drying out the roads. After a lovely hot breakfast of hash browns eggs and bacon, some household duties and a walk to the office, we found out that the Loop road around Mt Augustus is open and the road to Meekatharra will be open tomorrow morning. At this stage that is the only way out. While at the office the manager comes out and asked Philip when we needed to be back In Perth as if it was urgent she had talked to the Shire and gotten special permission for us to leave this afternoon. That’s pretty impressive that they would go to that trouble for us. We thanked her for “going the extra mile” and said we would allow a bit of time for roads to dry and leave tomorrow morning.

Back at the van we pack some lunch and our walking shoes, drinks and hats and take off around “The Rock”. First stop is Ooramboo to view some Aboriginal engravings and then to Edney Spring. These springs and creek bed are dotted with beautiful old River Red Gums. Shining white trunks show the tortured growing cycle they have had with burls wind bumps, broken limbs and twisted trunks. But they stand strong and solid in the rocky terrain and sandy creek beds. If only they could talk what a story they could tell. The engravings or Petroglyphs are open to your own interpretation and imagination. It’s hard to pick out anything distinctive.

Next stop is the Petroglyphs trail where more rock engravings are etched into the gorge wall.

Flinstone Rock further around the rock is a lovely walk/clamber as we rock hop and climb along a creek bed. The trail leads to a large slab of rock that bridges a rocky stream. You can crawl under the rock to view more engravings. Climbing further past Flinstone Rock we followed the small stream up a rocky gorge, discovering rock pools and trickles of water flowing both over, under and around huge boulders. This is a lovely walk made even better because of the rain we have had causing the creeks to flow.

Emu Hill Lookout was our lunch stop with views over the Lyons River flood plains and back towards Mt Augustus. Our last stop on the loop was Cattle Pool. This is a permanent pool on the Lyons River.

In the end it has been a great experience being marooned on an outback station. Watching the water come and flood the campground and then slowly dissipate and experiencing Mt Augustus with water running down the rock faces is probably not what most tourists see.