Spectacular Karijini

Leaving Marble Bar we headed down the Woodstock Road heading south. First stop was Flying Fox Lookout, looking over the Coongan River and Marble Bar. There are some mighty river systems up here and seeing water flowing in these rivers would be amazing. But not today there is just a small flow. The marble/jasper is quite noticeable along the river bed. Then off to Glen Herring Gorge (not even a sign on the roadside – just relying on good outback maps). You never know what you will find up these side roads or if there will be a turning spot for the truck and van. Luckily today there was, although tight and took a bit of manoeuvring. The road in wound up and over creek beds and hillocks past gum trees and spinifex covered hillsides. All set against a backdrop of deep red rock outcrops. Once into the car park we walked along the river bed and round the corner to a pretty impressive small gorge. Only about a half hour walk but well worth the effort. Back to the car park and we chatted to a couple camped there who gave us some tips on where to stay and what to see in the coming weeks. Our half hour detour off the main road turned into two hours. As we were leaving the gorge one flash of red stood out among the spinifex. Our first sighting of a Sturt Desert Pea.

Our overnight stop was at Albert Tognolini Lookout, a great lookout over Munjina Gorge. From the lookout we could watch the road trains labour their way up the hill and hear them rumble down the other side. From here we have just a quick run into Karijini National Park in the morning.

We fuelled up at Auski Roadhouse. That was an experience. It was a busy road train stop, fuelling up, with both fuel and food, mine vehicles, tourists and an assortment of other vehicles and people. There was dust everywhere and on everything. Thick layers of deep red dust coating fuel bowsers, trucks, paths and anything else that had a flat surface it could cling to.

We could set up in the Overflow Campground at Karijini from 10 am so we aimed for that so we could get a walk in during the afternoon. Our first walk was Dales Gorge, starting with 290 odd steps down to Fortescue Falls. Just “gorge”ous and a lovely spot to swim later. From Fortescue to Ferny pool, then back past Fortescue Falls to begin the walk along the floor of the gorge. 3 kilometres weaving our way along the path, over streams, over rocks, through water and beneath shady trees. A lovely walk and great views of the cliffs overhead. Unfortunately Circular Pool at the end of the track was closed due to a rockfall so it was back up the steep rocky steps to the overview of Circular Pool. Then back along the rim to the car park. A great view and now we are ready for a swim so it’s back down the 290 plus steps to Fortescue Falls and into the water. How refreshing and such a stunning place to swim. You could sit on the ledge under the waterfall and have a private spa or just float and enjoy the 360 degree view of majestic nature. Back to camp and a drink and relax before dinner.

It’s interesting watching people as they arrive with their vans in tow. This park area would hold about 40 vans, it only has about 12 here but some have to drive round and round until they think they have just the right spot. Then they jostle backward and forwards, until they have the van in the perfect position. Unhook the vehicle, lower the legs, put out the awning, set up tables and chairs, hang out washing and have a drink. Makes for interesting watching.

Friday 21st we are up early and on the road out to Joffre Falls but the track is closed so we continue on to Knox Gorge. I’m not sure about doing this walk. A class 5 track. Brochure says a high level of fitness and agility required. Steep sections with vertical drops are common. Mmmmm not sure about this! But reassured by an all too familiar Philip saying “she be rite we can always turn back” statement, we start off on the trail and for the first 20 metres it’s fine. Then it’s down hill or should I say down a cliff face. Fantastic views are all that keep me going. One step at a time. About 500 metres almost straight down but we finally reach the bottom and marvel at the route we have just taken. Then as we wander along the floor of the gorge each turn brings more spectacular vistas. Criss crossing the creek, rock hopping and standing in awe of this place we reach a pool where the gorge turns 90 degrees. Hmmmm this is gunna be interesting. The corner is steep with few foot holds and fewer handholds but Philip makes it round while I chose to sit this part out. There is no one else around at the moment. It’s a peaceful and awe inspiring place to rest for a few minutes. Philip finally returns! (P) I had a reason to “finally “ return. There was an adventure tour group that was in at the end of the gorge having coffee and fresh ginger nut cookies – soft and filled with some gooey sweet stuff. It would have been rude of me to rush back and not enjoy their company ( and cookies) and disturb Judith’s “quiet” time alone!) after watching another group shimmy round the corner Philip convinces me to give it a try because the best is yet to come. Nerves kicked in but after a few deep breathes and encouragement from Philip and others I made it round and continued to the end of the gorge. (P) I note there is no mention of Philip removing his shoes, sacrificing life and limb by wading thru the stream acting as a human prop to prevent Judith from doing a backflip into the water ( all because her legs and arms were too short to grab the minimal foot and rock holds)! One lady did tell me what a wonderful husband I was! (I accepted the compliment graciously) This is a truly spectacular place.

I must mention how awesome the Pilbra has been so far, spectacular vistas, huge machinery, monster trucks, historic mines, relics, buildings and massive mines, friendly people and some of the most spectacular gorges we have visited anywhere! It certainly isn’t promoted like the Kimberley but it is an awesome area to spend time, much more time than we initially planned to.

My husband, always thinking, is wandering along thinking out loud. “I wonder how magnetic this rock is around here. Yep he had to try to find out so stuck his phone close to the ground and boy is it magnetic as you can see from the photos. Next thought is could I weld this rock because of its iron content. Maybe try another time.