Amazing Amazon

Amazing Amazon

Finally we are here————!

(P:-Well that was some amazing detail from Judith! Again I believe she has gone out on brain overload from all the A-maz-ing Am-a-zon experiences!

So here I go again with a couple of facts- (all learnt in onboard lectures or Dr Google so I claim no expertise)

A is for Amazon and awesome

B is for Brazil and Big

Globally Brazil is the 3rd largest individual country

Is the 3rd largest agricultural products producer

Has the largest river system (Amazon shared with a few other countries)

One of the largest producers of soy beans and corn (corn mainly for ethanol)

Big in Beef

Monsanto’s largest client for Roundup ready Soy Beans

From our experiences a land of beautiful smiles

Yesterday we arrived in Santarem (approximately 500 nautical mile up river) a city of approx 35,000 people. We have learnt on our travels if our ship docks at an industrial dock in an industrial port we can be assured of the best of times! (for the Tasmanian’s that would be Burnie! And in our cruising we have only heard positives on the way the guests are treated there).

We chose to take a trip out to the Tapajos National Forest, a 1.5 million acre forest reserve. We were treated to an awesome 1.5hr drive thru dense rain forest, cattle farms, corn and soy fields

Their season is hot and dry and hot and wet and allows 2 crops a year. Generally fields are small and machinery accordingly. We drove down highway 163 (part of the Trans Brazilian Highway) rough, narrow and somewhat windy (rough enough that my “steps” app on my phone recorded approx. 7000 steps whilst I was seated in the rear of the bouncy old coach!). Once we reached the forest we had a local guide join us armed with a 26” machete and a hand gun, we drove down a narrow dirt track for 10 or so miles and enjoyed a 1.5 hr walk thru the magnificent rainforest, with our guide explaining the Botanical features and often the medical uses of the plants. We also sampled the sap and fruits of some. The heavens slightly opened and treated us to a wonderful tropical “shower” whilst under the enormous tropical canopy. This was followed by another enjoyable drive back to town. We re-boarded the Veendam, lunched and rehydrated before taking the shuttle bus to town. We wandered around a few farm supply stores then had a leisurely 5 km stroll back to the ship. As we wandered along the water front we were almost swallowed up by the activities of the local street stalls and all the ferries about to depart to “somewhere”. Upon asking (Brazilian Portuguese is very good now! – as long as the locals can read a calculator on my phone or understand my sign language!) some of these ferries were departing on 5 or 6 day voyages. The passengers buy their ticket, take their own hammock, food, live chickens, bags of corn, kids (both human and 4 legged) race aboard, hang their colourful hammocks and its putt, putt, putt and away they go! I couldn’t resist going aboard one to take a photo of the hammocks etc so (apart from the aroma’s of all types) the photos can tell the rest!)

My turn now. Philip has about covered it all but never mentioned that today was our first time getting soaked as we ran for the bus from the ship. Not to worry though it’s so warm here it only took about 20 minutes to dry off. About as long as the rain lasted. The buses are a little different here. No air conditioning!!! Luckily the windows open so we can get some air in. No shock absorbers in the rear (where we are sitting because usually we get the whole back seat and can take photos out both sides, and we don’t need to be first off the bus). The rain forest is great, no boardwalks or paved pathways here, just leaves, mud, mulch and narrow windy trails in amongst the vegetation.

As we leave Santarem this evening we wait to salute the Princendam as she sails past us. This is one of her last voyages before the ageing old lady (ship) is being sold off. We traded horn blasts with them as they sailed past. Then as we pull away from the dock we cruise through the “meeting of the waters”. Here the black Rio Negro and the silty Amazon rivers meet and the flow together for a considerable distance before the waters merge together.

Some facts

We met the silty Amazon River Water approximately 300 kilometres out to sea. The sea changed from blue to brown, not quite as pretty.

The Amazon is unofficially the longest river in the world, 2 mile longer than the Nile.

It is the widest river in the world.

It has 1100 tributaries, the seven main ones being longer than 1000 mile.

There is still a tidal flow 500 mile from the mouth of the river.

The current flow of the river would fill an empty Sydney Harbour in approx 6 seconds! And fill our Lake Argyle in under 2 minutes!

The speed of flow this evening is approx 7 knots (15kph)

River height rise and fall wet season to dry is approximately 45’

Boca da Valeria

15th March

Today’s stop is a total change from anywhere else we have stopped. We slip into a side tributary of the Amazon and drop anchor. Prepare the tenders and head into a tiny village of just 120 inhabitants, (usually) today there are a few more as they prepare to welcome the ship.

Boca da Valeria is a tiny trading village, a mix of indigenous and Portuguese heritage. This tiny community is carved out of the jungle and has only about a dozen houses and other structures including a church and school. There are no paved roads or tracks in this town. Many people make their living from fishing, with some selling handmade goods which are sold from thatched roofed shelters along the edge of the jungle. As we disembarked the tender, children lined pathway grabbing our hands, wanting to take us to show off their homes, school etc. Others have iguanas, sloths, snakes, toucans etc and for a small fee we can take their pictures.

Numerous boats, all shapes and sizes are lined up along the river bank and they are all encouraging us to take a ride with them. $5 US for 30 minutes. We decide to take a ride before too many ships passengers are about, so pick a guide and hop on to his boat. Plank seats, water sloshing in the bottom, little freeboard, blue tarp roof, a long paddle and a little Honda motor with a pole shaft drive and a very small prop. I hope we make it back safely. Once settled we get pushed off from shore and start the motor to head upriver. This is certainly a different view of the river, water level not deck level. First detour off the main channel is over to some giant water lilys, 4-5 feet across with upturned edges and dark pink and light pink blooms. These almost look solid enough to walk on but I don’t think I’ll try today. (P:- they can hold up to 20kg of weight each!) We then motor further upriver and through some channels under trees and out into another channel finally motoring over to a clearing on the side of a hill. There are a few people to greet us, kids in costume with iguanas, alligators and birds. It costs us a few local dollars and the kids give us some smiles then it’s up the hill to our guides local village. Twenty or so homes, church, school and a small store. Everyone is friendly and wants to show us around. We also have a great view back down the river to our “home”, then it’s back to our canoe with a roof for the return ride to the village. (P:- Our Captain looked about 15, and as we went to his village we met 5 of his siblings and Mum – maybe he was only 14! But he gave us an awesome time! Yet again our Brazilian Portuguese (sign language) proved awesome. We do a bit more of a tour through the giant lily pads and past semi submerged cattle yards, through tunnels of trees and finally reach the village. Our 30 minute ride lasted an hour and a half and cost us just $15 US. We gave him $25 as we enjoyed it so much.

(P:-once back on board I did a google earth of where we went – we actually were floating over a huge flood plain that in the dry season is used for cattle grazing!)

Once back on land we wandered around the local village and found a track heading inland back into the forest. We head up the track following a few fellow travellers. The track winds it’s way further into the forest, revealing its beauty yet again. Butterflies are plentiful and colourful, plants many and varied, the heat and humidity intensify as we wander along the pathway. We walk for several kilometres (P:- we lost all our fellow travellers way back as they turned around not far out of the village! We kept going sure we would find better around the next bend or over the next hill!) just enjoying the beauty that’s around us, the smells, the plants and trees, the sounds of the birds and cicadas.

How lucky are we to be here experiencing this amazing area. As we sail west into a beautiful sunset we think tomorrow will need to be good to equal today.