Recife and Maceio

Recife, Brazil, Saturday Feb. 24

Known as the Venice of Brazil because it is crisscrossed by rivers, canals and bridges. This city of 1.5 million (approx 4 million in the total metropolitan area) is the capital for the state of Pernambuco and one of the largest cities in Brazil. It was founded by the Portuguese in 1534. Today Recife is an interesting mix of modern metropolis, colonial settlement and tropical beach resort. Located at the confluence of the Beberibe and Capibaribe Rivers. Recife has something for everyone, history, culture and geography, charming colonial buildings, skyscrapers, historical churches and emerald green waters edging palm lined beaches.

We are off on a tour of this interesting city and our first stop will be the UNESCO World heritage city of Olinda which was founded in 1537 and is considered one of Brazil’s best preserved colonial cities. The town is perched on the only hill visible and narrow cobblestone streets wind their way through the town area. The city is preparing for Carnival which starts next Friday. Streamers are everywhere, town squares are filled with dancers and drummers. Stalls are selling food and paintings, linens and crafts and all manner of other tourist baubles. The houses are all pastel coloured, many with lattice work and heavy doors and red tile roofs, this makes for a very pretty outlook. From the lookout at the top of the hill we can see right back over the city and port area where we are docked.

From Olinda we head back down into the city where we visit the Casa du Cultura, a former prison turned into a handicraft market. This is a fascinating old building with the many stores housed inside the prisons cells. Steep stairs lead to several higher levels. The outside is much the same as it used to be but the original wall surrounding the prison has been taken down and the area opened to the public.

Before heading back to the ship we made a last stop at the southern beaches. High rises on one side of the road, beach on the other. The beach is again covered in deck chairs and umbrellas, kiosks selling food and others selling, kites, drinks, hats etc. The tide is out and there is a reef that runs along the beach protecting the shoreline. The water is 29 degrees. Very warm!

As we left port the sun was setting and the lights of the city glimmered on the horizon. We turned and followed the coast watching the lights for several hours as the towns and cities hugged the coastline. It makes for a pleasant evening sitting on our deck, enjoying the warm evening and a drink as we relax before dinner.

Maceio, Sunday

We arrived in port around 7.30 this morning and reversed into our docking spot just in front of a bulk carrier loading wheat. Looks like this vessel had to be moved back so that we could tie up along the dock. This is a much more industrial area, with several other ships in port.

After a hearty breakfast, we headed ashore. Again we are doing a tour. As most things are closed, because it’s Sunday, we figured we would see more on the tour. Our guide Nina was very good and gave us a good overview of this city. We passed several of the local beaches which are all protected by a reef. Then through the city centre, which is all closed up being Sunday. It would be a thriving place any other day. We stop at the Ponta da Barrah handcraft market on the edge of a lagoon, where fishermen and artisans produce and sell their local arts and crafts. This area is renown for its handmade lacework and baskets. We wander through the market enjoying the colours and displays along the street. In amongst it all is a small area with fishing nets, a fisherman cleaning fish, and a few small boats. Further on Philip spies a lady actually weaving the lacework and she is quite happy for him to photograph her.

(P- STOP-PRESS Judith omitted to mention she “Invested” in some local craft! Well at least it was local, original and not made in China with the label removed!)

After driving through more of the city, visiting the Metropolitan Cathedral, government and historical buildings we head to Mirante de Sao Goncalo Hill for view our over the city. Then back to the ship, through the port area.

The city started out as a small fishing village, then an important port and then finally became the state capital. Jaragua, the port area used to be the biggest port in the region, today all the warehouses and buildings have been turned into restaurants, shops and nightclubs.

We are back on the ship just after noon for a 1.30 departure. After some lunch and a swim I watched some dolphins play alongside the ship as we pulled away from the dock and out past the break wall. A small fishing trawler motored past with its nets out and many small boats bob around in the waters close to the pier.

We have met another lovely couple, Kass and Ed, who we have done several tours with and met up with for dinner together. They are from Pennsylvania, near the Amish area. We had a great evening together at dinner and look forward to doing it again before they leave the cruise in Rio.

I’m off for a walk around the deck while Philip has a snooze (like 2 1/2 hours!). Here’s what I found as I walked around. There are a couple making plans for the next ports, a man with an ice pack on his shoulder. A snorer having a great sleep, people reading or pretending to read but with very heavy eyes. People listening to music, a lady in a fairly brief bikini sunning herself, a lady with a sore leg propped up on a rolled up towel, a man covered in tattoos, a group of people having a drink, a couple having coffees, a guy doing some yoga or exercise of some sort, the guy from the pool deck who watched movies on his reality screen and of course other walkers, slow and fast.Each lap changes as does the view along the coast. The city fades into the distance and the coastline fades away and then reappears. It’s smooth sailing and a warm breeze blows over the deck. It doesn’t take many laps to work up a sweat so after six or seven I’m off to have a swim.

(P- it’s very interesting wandering around these old cities and surrounding countryside. The places we have visited so far show signs of once being very prosperous, Alas it appears not so much these days! I am not a city person so it’s always good to get a look at the countryside where possible, if that’s not possible the industrial side of town always tells a story or two. It’s a personal preference but to me a glance at an old municipal building or Cathedral is enough. Give me a wander thru a fisherman’s port and market any day! Having said that the age of these towns and cities has surprised me and I do love the warped, sunken, misshapen terracotta rooftops on the residences.

There seems to be a lot of beautiful dance costumes being worn with the Carnaval season just beginning, the colours needlework etc in these are outstanding. Along with that there appears to be a competition on the beaches ( nudity is illegal) to use as little material in bathing costumes as possible. Probably a pity there are no mirrors on the beach for some to see what they ( don’t) wear! Below are a couple of “postcards” of costumes seen!)