Amazon Delta Taster

We have now crossed the equator, heading south. The swells have been larger than I like, (P:- Judith has tolerated the ships motion very well! With a bit of luck I may now have a more eager “First Mate” in our own boat)! but I have survived and the seas are now calming down. The Crossing The Equator Ceremony was cancelled due to the pool being too rough to use. The mesh cover never came off it for almost three days. At times it had quite the wave action happening even with the cover on. It didn’t stop guests from preening themselves poolside. One guy has laid beside the pool every day with a reality screen strapped to his face that plays movies. He is in the same spot almost all day every day. There is another guy that every time we see him he is in the guests bathrobe, by the pool, on the Lido deck getting food, In the hallways and even on shore wandering around the port areas. I don’t think this should be allowed but each to his own.

Today we are heading for Icoaraci, Belem, our first stop in the Amazon Basin. Belem is about 100 miles up the Guama River and is the capital of the Para district. The river defines the lives of the cities inhabitants and many of the city’s most interesting sights. First settled in 1616, the discovery of rubber and its importance in the 19th and early 20th century triggered an economic boom in Belem. It was during this time that most of Belem colonial buildings were constructed. Today Belem is still an important commercial and economic centre, transporting immense quantities of fish, shrimp and timber.

We are off on a tour of Belem and after being tendered ashore we boarded our bus for the short drive into the city. Just arriving shore side was an experience. We were on a local tender, double deck wooden, that hadn’t seen a coat of paint for many years. She held 190 passengers for the short ride and as we neared the dock there were dozens of local boats coming and going from the dock. Fishing boats, ferries, boats loaded with nets, small skiff type boats with no shelter and larger ones with cabins and shelters. Lots with blue tarp sheets tied to masts, covering goods, or shoved in corners. And all this we could see before we disembarked. Then as we climbed the walkway, dancers and drummers filled the area, then fishermen, ferry drivers, taxi drivers and guides. Then off to the bus for the short 30 minute drive into the city of Belem. The standard of living here is much different to what we have at home. Small shanty type homes crammed together along the waterfront. Fishing huts, workshops, shops, fuel stops, all in no particular order.

Our first stop on the tour is the Mercado Ver-o-Peso, the local market, Brazil’s largest outdoor market, where we have a guided tour through some of the stalls. Again this market is an assault on the sight and senses. Barros, our guide, stopped at various stalls to explain what was being sold, fruit and veggies that we have never seen before, fast food that was being served, herbs and spices, medicinal concoctions of every description, the fish market and live hens and birds. The colours of the fruit and veggies, peppers, berries, greens, roots etc. had vivid colours and weird shapes. Very little was wasted, from roots to leaves, fruits to seeds all parts of the plants were used. We walked through for about 90 minutes amongst the locals, watching out for pickpockets. From the food market we walked through the fresh fish market, no refrigeration as everything is sold fresh (P:- The locals interpretation of “Fresh” is a little different to mine!) a local shopping area where everything and anything could be purchased. Groceries, office stuff, knick knacks, kids clothes, etc. the area was thriving with people, cars and trucks. Also past a few fabric stores all displaying glitzy fabrics and decorations for carnivale costumes.

Our next stop was Forte do Castelo, circa 1616, which was constructed when the city was first founded. From here we had great views over the city area and some of the surrounding old colonial buildings. We boarded our bus again much to some of the tour groups relief, they were too hot, had too far to walk, walking was too hard on cobblestones, too many people and the complaints went on. We felt it was a great experience, in amongst the action.

Our third stop was the Basilica of our Lady of Nazareth. This church had a very ornate and spectacular interior with soaring marble columns, 54 brilliant stained glass windows and a very ornate timber ceiling. It also houses a beautiful pipe organ. The main front doors of the church weigh 5 ton. A very beautiful Basillica.

Our last stop was the Emilio Goeldi Museum, a 133 year old museum which includes a botanical garden/zoo in the centre of the city. Here we walked for about 30 minutes to view some of the local trees and plants of the area plus some of the local animals. Jaguars, tapir, blue macaws, turtles and tortoise and spider monkeys. The blue macaws and the scarlet ibis were beautiful. Also the giant water Lilys were interesting to see.

(P:- the animals were caged in small concrete enclosures with steel bars at the front, somewhat like I recall at zoos when I was a child. I am all for well kept zoos with “open range” enclosures but found today’s experience not very pleasant.)

As we headed back to the ship we had a huge rainstorm which left the narrow dirt local roads running with water. Motorcyclist and locals headed to shelter under bus shelters, porches, fuel stations and wherever else they could find shelter.

There is rubbish everywhere here. Piles of it along the roadside, heaps on street corners and blown up against fences. The buildings are dirty and dingy and run down. Washing hangs on balconies, strung between windows and walls, but the people are friendly, smiling and waving if you hold a camera up. The river banks are messy with old boats, rubbish, vegetation and dirty brown water lapping at boats and buildings.

As we board the tender back to the ship, the tide had changed, the wind has strengthened and there are a few white caps. It won’t be a smooth ride back but it’s not far. We are sitting just near the open doorways. The couple next to us and closer to the door ask to move because they might get wet, but there is nowhere to go. They swing their legs into the centre of the tender and moan about possibly getting wet and for the next few minutes moan every time a wave splashes in the open door. Philip commented “It’s ok it’s only water” a comment that was not well received! Admittedly dirty river water, but we have all been hot and sweaty for the last 4 hours so I’m guessing a little river water is not going to make a lot of difference. Clothes can be washed. Water doesn’t hurt so just enjoy the experience don’t moan about it. How many people can say they have been sprayed by amazon water

(P:- it is very evident that Belem was once a wealthy city, over the years the majestic buildings and infrastructure have been left with little maintenance and deteriorating rapidly in this hot, humid, climate. I always enjoy looking around and beyond what the average tourist does to gain a more in-depth knowledge of the area, both by pre research and whilst on the ground. The ingenuity of the people in keeping things operating is amazing, their happy smiles welcoming and their willingness to share about what they are selling informative and interesting. Being alert to our surroundings is important as there is also a constant threat of “pick pockets” and worse. We are told to look like locals! A little difficult for a Caucasian guy like me who towers considerably above the local population! Some places we tour ourselves but in others take tours organised by the Cruise line with local guides and as in Belem, 3 plain clothed security personnel discreetly following at a distance all day- I noticed these guys and asked if they were security – I am sure most others on the tour would not have known! Probably worth paying a slight premium for the tour! I think today’s photos tell a thousand words!)

As we head south along the Brazilian coast to more ports, we are really looking forward to our return voyage and time spent on the Amazon after today’s “teaser”.