More Remote Tracks and Station Roads

Today we departed Karumba and headed up the Burke Developmental Road to Dunbar Station then took a Station service road through to the Peninsular Developmental Road near Mulgrave Station. 450 k, most of it at 50-60 k per hour, all sand, dirt and gravel, creek washouts and at times the road was little more than 2 wheel tracks in the sand with “grass” attempting to grow in between. The highlight of the day was the crossing of the Mitchell River. Water flowing over the road for 100m (300 feet) the deepest spot being just over 2 feet deep. Steep sand banks on the eastern side of the river. This river must be a raging torrent in the wet season. It’s wide and deep with sand banks and trees, thankfully today it was a fairly sedate crossing. (P- would a been a good swimming hole but we didn’t feel like sharing it with crocodiles! Judith was a little quiet from when she spotted the crossing until we reached the other side! It is always a little nerve racking when travelling alone.)

The whole day has been a changing landscape, from plains of grasses and sparse trees to waterholes surrounded by 100s of cattle, waterholes covered with Lily’s and surrounded by dozens of water birds and river/creek crossings. The Gilbert River, the Mitchell River, the Alice River being the major ones with many small creeks and watercourses.

(P- Whilst I launched the drone at the Mitchell River Crossing a couple of 4WDs with camper trailers went thru. We later went past them, stopping to say hi and received nothing more than a grump response back. In our usual fashion, we wander along stopping to look and photograph as we travel, never a fast process but interesting. We alway have our UHF radio on scan so we can listen for traffic and what’s happening in the local area (mustering, oncoming traffic etc.). The snobby voice from one of the “Grumps” we past at lunch complained by radio to their mates in the second vehicle “ I am sorry I have had to slow down as the Tasmanian’s in front needed to get a “wiggle on”. Judith was driving and without doubt travelling as fast as I would have done in the conditions. If they had asked nicely we would have pulled over but they kept whining and somewhat out of character, my Wife became quite determined they would follow in our dust for their unfriendly comments! Little did they know our scanner was picking up their transmissions!)

Tonight we are camped just off the track on Dixie Station listening to a symphony of native birds as the sun goes over the “hill” after another great day!

During the afternoon we saw cattle being mustered and pulled over to watch.

Friday 29 June

After going to bed with the sound of bird song we also woke this morning to a chorus of bird song. Just lovely to hear so many different birds. nice if we knew what they all were. Our aim today is to get to Elim Beach about 50 k north of Cooktown. We have only about 20 k to go before we hit the Peninsula Development Road (that heads north to Cape York), we turn south and travel down to the Hann River Roadhouse to fuel up. As Philip gets out of the car he asks me if he looks ok and is his hair tidy (mmm what’s he up to). He’s just spotted the girl serving fuel at the bowser and comments that this doesn’t happen too often and it’s worth paying a bit extra for fuel if he is going to get driveway service from a nice blonde!

(P- she was from Hamburg, Germany and here on a working tourist visa ) Just to note, fuel is only 5 cents a litre dearer here than at home.

After refuelling we continue south to Laura and then turn off into Old Laura, where we stop and have a wander around the old homestead and outbuildings. This homestead was originally established to provide beef to the Palmer River gold miners. It was established in 1879 even though the gold rush began to decline in 1880, the fledgling cattle industry was starting to hit its stride and by 1894 the Laura homestead was running 8000 head of cattle. Homesteaders became self sufficient, growing their own crops, blacksmith shop and beef processing to free the workers. By 1960 the old homestead was deteriorating and after some renovations it stands today as a tribute to the hardy pioneers of the Cape York Peninsula.

From Old Laura we follow the Battlecamp Road through to Hopevale and on to Elim Beach. The scenery has big changes today from the flat cattle country that we have been in to hills, winding roads, steep sections, many water crossings and views across the tropical rainforest hills. A total contrast to the western side of the gulf.

As we head down into Elim Beach we are passing white sand dunes, palm trees and swamp areas. We wind our way down a narrow track and find Eddies beach camp. A space that opens to a flat area, some beach front some grassed areas and beautiful trees. We find a spot right on the waterfront and set up camp. Nibbles and a drink as the sun sets and conversations with other campers. What a way to end the day.

(P- A guy spots the matched wheels on our truck and van, (those who have read previous posts may remember how unimpressed Judith was when I put new shiney alloy wheels all round. “No one will ever notice them she almost grumped!” -At almost every camp someone comments!) Well the guy tonight happened to be an old business associate and friend from Ulverstone. He walked around the corner to comment on our rig and was as surprised as us when we met… another late dinner tonight after a long “catch up”- Did I mention I like my rig and wheels!!)