29-31st August

Well not quite a dash but a spur of the moment decision while doing our groceries in Fairbanks (P- the advantages of not having fixed plans for our road trip!) sees us driving up the Dalton Highway towards Prudhoe Bay. Although we have little intention of getting all the way, the Brooks Range at the half way point is our main goal. We have a couple of spare days before heading back towards Anchorage so Philip could not possibly have some time relaxing, instead we do some more serious driving. (P- research advised me there are no Quilt shops on the Dalton Hwy. so that’s a sound reason to tour the road)

The Dalton Highway is 415 mile (668 k) long, from Fairbanks to Prudhoe Bay on the Arctic Ocean. The Highway follows the Trans Alaska pipeline, up and down hills, through forested valleys and over the Brooks Range at Atigun Pass and then across the treeless north slope. It is one of Alaskas most remote, dangerous and challenging roads. It is still considered a haul road and is continued to be used by all types of vehicles from motor bikes to cars to freight haulers.

After filling up with fuel in Fox we turn onto the Dalton and onto the gravel. Before too long we are waiting at a stop for a pilot car to guide us through 20+ mile of roadworks. Apparently (according to social media “arm chair” experts) this is due to a large washout or landslide. (Later learning that is not correct and it is for realignment of the road).

The Yukon River Crossing, a bridge this time, is 2290 feet long (698m)and has a 6% grade. It was completed in 1975 and upgraded in 1999. There is a short track to a viewing platform under the pipeline and bridge. This is the only bridge that crosses the 1980 mile (3190 k) river. The Bridge also Carries the Aleyska oil pipe line across the Yukon river. A short way up the road is our campground for the night. Again no one but us. The season is coming to an end very quickly.

The campground is just near the Hot Spot Cafe, a now defunct facility. We wander around the remains of the buildings, finding nothing much of interest apart from the accommodation that looks as though someone walked out yesterday and just left everything behind. Linen still on the bed, guitar against the wall and shoes inside the doorway. Pretty sad really. During Highway construction mammoth bones were found near here.

The road is a series of frost heaves, pot holes, corrugations and mud, interspersed with cloud, rain and fog. We continue to drive up to Coldfoot enjoying the scenery, when visible and refuel. Stopping by the Visitors centre we chat to the staff there about the road further north. We would really have liked to go over the Atigun Pass but the road apparently deteriorates more after Sukakpak Mountain. On their advice we continue on to Sukakpak as it’s very picturesque there and stop for lunch while enjoying the view of the mountain. The pressures on the limestone have changed much of the mountain into marble, with veins of copper, quartz, crystalline and cinnabar in the mountain. While lunching, the fog/cloud ahead of us lowers even more and as the Atigun Pass is twice as high as any we have already been over we make the decision to turn back. We will have to save the rest of this trip for another day.

On our return we divert a few miles to the Rustic town of Wiseman, Alaska, first settled in 1909 as (and still is) a gold mining town. (P- If I was looking for a place to be a Hermit and go into recluse it would be the perfect community!) We drive and wander around this quaint place and are welcomed to visit the local “Chapel” well local worship place. Wiseman is a well worthwhile diversion. To make our return trip special we spotted a moose right by the roadside. Stopping to get some great photos. We stop at the Arctic Circle Campground for the night with only a couple of other campers there. Alas no Northern Lights here either too much cloud.

31st

From the Arctic Circle we continue south heading for Fairbanks. This morning around 50 miles of fog with 100 -200 feet of visibility and it’s slow going. As we crest one hill 5 wolves cross ahead of us. How awesome to see them. Back in Fairbanks we book into the Rivers Edge RV Park and have lunch before using their car wash to once again discover our vehicle is blue not dirty brown. 1 1/2 hours to get the gluey mud off. No more dirt roads for us this trip.

The Dalton Highway is interesting in that it follows the Alaska Pipeline but it is not as scenic as the Dempster Highway.

(P- We knew we wouldn’t get to Prudhoe Bay the location of Alaska’s North Slope Oil Wells.

Always another day and another reason to visit Alaska again!

-The North Slope is home to America’s National Petroleum Reserve Alaska, area over 1/4 million acres.

-Over 1000 wells are connected by a network of pipes and pumps to the Trans Alaska Pipeine which snakes its way approx 800 miles (1287 klm) to the port of Valdez where there is deep water, ice free port facilities and a refinery.

– 11 pump stations assist the flow of the crude oil to Valdez in the 48” (1.2m ) diameter insulated pipe

– The pipe is a continual series of bends to allow for expansion and contraction, the above ground section (over half the pipes total length)

– The pipe runs above ground in the permafrost areas so that the hot oil does not melt the permafrost environment. Over 78,000 refrigerant filled legs support the pipe.

In my opinion this pipeline is a fascinating engineering achievement!)

(P- As we drove towards Delta Junction we noticed a road called Agricultural Road and a grain silo or two. After my Google Earth of the area I was amazed to see how much Agricultural land was in the area! Next morning we retrace our steps to investigate. We discover, Yak, Bison, Beef Cattle and a Dairy Farm. Along with Barley, Oats, Canola and a few Potato fields. To me the crops all look stunted and very short on straw or foliage. There were also large fields of round or square bales that had just been made. We came across a Slaughterhouse and Butchers shop (Delta Meat and Sausage inc.) so time for a visit. The lady who served us was one of the owners of this family business. Time for 20 questions I thought!

-How long is the season? A max of 3 months (hence the short straw and foliage)

-what crops- See above

-How many Farmers? Not many now as the younger generation move away to more lucrative lifestyles

-Where are the equipment dealers? There aren’t any good ones and we all run old non computerised Farm Machinery as there are no technicians to service modern High tech equipment (looking around I could see she was correct)

-How did the farming start here? Politicians deciding Alaska must feed their own.

– Is it viable? Very hard to make viable and getting less and less of the land used

A few more questions and she gave us a map of where their farms were and sent us on a self tour. Before we left we stocked upon on locally grown and butchered, Bison, Yak, Angus Steak and Buffalo. We like to support local and the quality of the produce has been great.)

We then drive on thru the town of North Pole. Guess what they have a “Santa Claus” shop (as tacky as) with a big old Santa Statue out front and some penned up reindeer’s!

This reminded me of a Reindeer story!

I was reliably informed by the Lady who owned one of the quilt shops (so it must be true!) that whilst Santa’s Reindeers ( having male names) are all female! Why? Because Only Female Reindeer have antlers in winter! We have been misled with the Rudolf song evidently! Oh and Reindeer are tamed and farmed Caribou) – After that story perhaps we should stop calling at quilt shops!

J. Well I think Philip called ahead because the Quilt Shop, The Quilted Cow, in Delta Junction was closed.

27th

Retracing our travels along the Top of the World Highway we are surprised at how the Fall colours have dulled off, changing from golds to dark/orange brown. The mountains today have been in full view with clear skies and no fog or smoke haze. We passed through the border checks quickly and turned off at the Jack Wade Junction to drive down to Eagle. This 65 mile gravel road is located at the end of the Taylor Highway on the Yukon River. The Milepost (our Alaskan travelling bible) states “the road is narrow, winding, gravel, no shoulder or soft shoulders and steep drop offs. Be alert for oncoming traffic on blind hills and curves”, and they weren’t kidding. It was not my favourite road, especially the steep drop offs. In places the road clung to the side of the mountain as we descended the many hairpin bends and steep curves. But the views were great and as long as I didn’t look down and Philip drove in the middle of the road all was good.

(P- The sedation of Judith I mentioned on a previous day of challenging driving conditions should have happened today! It was rather a quiet drive with little conversation especially on the 7 mile downhill with a 5-800 foot almost vertical drop off on Judith’s side!)

About a third of the way down we came to the Forty Mile River and stopped for lunch. Walking over the bridge we could see gold dredges skiffs and small hovercrafts tied up along the bank. This is one of the very few areas where you can still own a claim that has river frontage and extends into the river to mine for gold. After lunch we met a guy who has been gold mining here.

(P- I wander over and say hi- not knowing what the response would be! The response consumed the next hour of our day. Asking him how he mined and did he get any gold at all? He dredges for gold, suited up in a hot water heated dry suit and breathing apparatus. It’s heads down and feet up in the cold sometimes murky, fast flowing Alaskan River ( Forty Mile River) and does he get gold? Out comes the clean up dirt he will take home and pan out, small nuggets of gold clearly visible, then a container of gold particles ( evidently the money maker) and then a Jar of nuggets! He then hands some of them over to Judith to hold while we listen to his mining stories (we thought about as stretched as fisherman stories until he produces the photos as evidence). I suggested a bit of cash for a nugget at a mutually agreeable price would be a great Alaskan Souvenir! Kent was out with the gold scales quicker than I could say CASH – Judith chose her nugget and the deal was done! What a fun hour or so in backwoods Alaska! And never let it be said I never buy Judith Jewellery! )

Continuing on round more corners and over bridges along valleys we drive past the American Summit Liquor Store and Snack Bar. It’s no longer open but you have to wonder why anyone would open a liquor store and snack bar out here in the middle of nowhere on a barren hill where it gets snow for 9 months of the year and the road is closed for six-eight months. Someone must have had a dream I guess.

Continuing on we reach Eagle and drive around town before heading up to the campground. We set up camp, we have a choice of 16 sites as no one else is here, and pay our $12 camp fee.

Then with bear spray in our pockets we walk back into town and around the few remaining buildings of Fort Egbert.

(P- on the way we meet an older gent walking our way, we stop and exchange greetings, and he shares some of his 50 years he has spent in the Isolated town of Eagle. Most interesting to hear how they survive the winter, ensuring they drive their pickup to Tok ( the nearest major service town 180 miles on a slow road away) and fly in and out in a Bush Plane as there are no Roads from end of September till March or April. He asked Judith did she know how to use the Bear Spray she had on her belt, lifted his jacket showing us his and saying never be without it. He shared his close encounter Bear story (probably same exaggeration as Fishing stories) the story ended that he won and the Bear tasted great! – another 45 minutes gone in discussing Alaskan life.)

Then stroll down the grass runway towards the old town of Eagle and the Yukon River. Several Bush airplanes are parked along the strip. Quite a few quirky local buildings that we wander around before making our way back to the RV, collecting some small brush to start our fire with on the way. Philip gets the fire going and it’s the best one we have had here in Alaska. Finally dry wood and sticks that burn with some heat.

While we are cooking dinner we are amazed when a tour coach drives into the campground followed by a truck. Then after 10 minutes they both leave. Later while having dinner a guy walks passed and starts chatting with us. He is a Professor of History at an Anchorage College and has just arrived with the bus load of 17-18 year old school kids who tomorrow morning will be starting a rafting trip down the Yukon for 10 days, leaving the river in Circle about 150 km away. What an experience for these kids and a great way to start their school year.

28th

Departing Eagle this morning and we have to retrace our route 65 mile back up the range, round the steep winding narrow roads. I can hardly wait. Luckily we only meet one vehicle as we were coming out. I was very glad to get back on the main road.

(P- It was also a very quiet last 7 miles as we drove along the cliff side. The co-pilot was operating in nervous quiet mode again. To me it was another great road to drive!)

Chicken was our next stop (we stopped at the Chicken Roadhouse when we passed previously) where we checked out the mining dredge, souvenir shop and the mercantile and cafe. We had been told the cafe had great chicken pot pie but alas none today. They had run out of chicken and as the season ends next week didn’t restock. Got some nice blueberry and cherry pie slices for dinner tonight.

Engineers Creek is a tributary of the Ogilvie River. Iron Oxide, limestone, gypsum, salt and sulphide bearing sediments dissolve in the rain water and colour the creek and earth reds and orange-brown hues. There is a distinctive sulphur smell from the nearby sulphur springs.

WHAT AN ADVENTURE

WHAT AN EXPERIENCE

22nd – 26th August

This has been an amazing part of our trip. So much to see and experience. 1112mile (1800 km) of dirt and mud, mountains and tundra, bears, moose, the Arctic Circle and the Arctic Ocean.

(P- our original thoughts were to travel the Dalton Highway to Prudo Bay in Alaska, watching a documentary on Canada’s North West Territories changed our plans. The main reasons to Drive the Dempster was, A) it is a winter Ice road crossing rivers on natural ice bridges ( ferries in summer) B) the Dempster went all the way to the Artic Ocean, C) the Dempster travels through several Inuit villages and towns, D) Tuktoyaktuk the most northern town. 67 degrees north would possibly be a chance to sample Artic seafood. Last but not least E) the road in the thaw season is known to be a bit of a driving challenge – so down with the tyre pressures, fuel up, sedate Judith and off we go!) (joking on Sedating Judith she is a great co Pilot)

Here are a few photos for you to enjoy.

We struck all road types, from dry dusty gravel to slick mud, fog and smoke haze. Philip commented it was like driving in oatmeal porridge.

(P- one “stretch” of road approx 550 kilometres was 4WD as the road surface was that greasy the Truck couldn’t get traction in 2wd and besides the Co-pilot prefers the driving Experience going straight ahead not sideways!)

Spotted 6 or 7 bears along the roadside, none that were interested in us. They were busy feeding. Amazing watching them in their natural habitat.

(P- The “mother” bear in the top left photo armed with her bear spray – just in case! Well that’s if it was remembered prior to a walk! Judith always walks out front when we walk- for some reason she has been walking behind me when we stop on the side of the road and walk a local trail to a lake etc. I wonder why a change and walking behind me??)

( The Local Inuits can harvest Whale ( Beluga) as a community harvest and the harvest is shared. A little research and getting to know “Grandma” as she is called and we were privileged to be offered a taste. Both of us commented after it was way better than we thought, Pork texture with a seafood taste. Thanks to “Grandma” for giving us the privilege of tasting what is a legal harvest in the Arctic. The communities were friendly and it was great to tour and wander around)

A bucket list item, to Paddle in the Arctic Ocean. We made it here so off with the shoes and socks and into the water. It’s 0.5 degrees C so we take a very quick photo before our toes freeze off and race back out again. My feet we cold for hours after and my toes felt like they were going to snap off.

(P. – According to the Aurora Borealis Observatory the blue sky phenomenon is when the Aurora catches the moonlight and changes it to hues of blue. Seeing they know more than I do, I will take that as true and if it’s not then it’s still pretty.

(P- photos of the Autumn colours don’t do them justice. They were outstanding! Prior to departing we were warned the Autumn colour change lasts approximately 1 week and then it’s all over! We estimated that doing the Dempster at the end of our trip we might get lucky. The colour change in the 4 day period of travelling up and back was very noticeable with some trees already bare. A bit of planning but we really hit the Jackpot here! – I am thinking for the first time in decades my “Brownie point jar must be overflowing“ ! )

21st.

Destination Glenallen and the Tok Cutoff road today. We have heard that the Tok Cutoff is a rough road so we will see how we go.

2 1/2 hours to do the road. It was great with very few frost heaves and even less pot holes. In 2000 it was a narrow bouncy goat track of a road, not any more.

One should never believe what is said on social media when travelling. It’s almost never correct

From the Tok Cutoff we turned south and then East as we head towards Chicken. One of the things we wanted to see on this part of the trip was the fall colours. The leaves are just starting to turn yellow in areas and the further we travel the more yellow and gold the hillsides are becoming.

Chicken is just a fuel stop, Rv park and gold dredging area. It sounds good in brochures but in reality is just tacky. We stop for a break but then continue on until we find a gorgeous campground at Walker Fork on the Forty-mile River. There are only a few RVs here and it’s such a beautiful campground.

22nd

Today we pass through the USA Border into Canada and the Yukon. Travelling along the Top of the World Highway. It’s beautiful with the hillsides dropping away and starting to have a golden tinge. The further north we go the more variety of colours are popping up. There are some great spots of red. The Alaska Range is in the far distance with bare hills and spruce covered hills and steep winding valleys in between. By lunch time we reach the Dawson City ferry over the mighty Yukon River and wait for our turn to load and cross. It’s a glorious day, 72 degrees, and as the weather is suppose to deteriorate later in the week we spend the next couple of hours wandering around the town checking out the old buildings and visiting the NWT Visitors centre to gather some information on the Dempster Highway which we will be taking this afternoon.

Around 2.30 we head 30 mile out of town and turn onto the Dempster. We now have approximately 900 kilometres (we are now in Canada and using Kilometres again) to reach Tuktoyaktuk and the Arctic Ocean. What adventures will await us as we travel this road.

(P- one would class this road as Canada’s equivalent to our Cape York Adventure, except no crocodiles, no Tropical Heat and so far no crazy drivers on the road. Judith omitted to say the 900 klms are all Dirt road and once she swims in the almost freezing waters of the Arctic Ocean and camps a night or two it is a 900 klm return drive to Dawson City, oh then another 200 klm of Dirt to Tok. In all about 2200 klm of dirt and gravel road! My type of adventure. And it’s one of the few roads in Canada that go above the Arctic Circle.

I asked again still no Pastry Chef with me again tonight!!- something to be said about cruising!,)

20th August

Left Juneau early this morning and had a spectacular flight through to Anchorage. Flying over some massive glaciers and mountains. We have now seen glaciers from the air, from the water and walking on them, giving us much more appreciation of their size.

(P- whilst flying Along the coast and viewing the Glaciers and checking co-ordinates I have added Bering Glacier to my to do list! The Icebergs floating out into the bay from there were huge- even from 30,000 feet up! Nearest town is Cordova (a land locked town near the mouth of the Copper River) might have to come back again sometime- will add it to my travel to do list!)

Back in Anchorage we picked up our camper and made a stop at the grocery store to stock up and then headed north to Palmer. The Alaska State Fair is on for the next week and we just can’t drive past without stopping for a while. It’s a lovely sunny day and there are crowds of people about. We have been to many State Fairs in the USA and this one is looking good. We are hardly into the grounds and Philip has spotted the smoked turkey drumsticks, (P- it has always been a must do to buy and enjoy an American County or State Fair Smoked, Slow cooked and BBQed Turkey Drumstick! It is now a tradition as I know Mark does the same. Of all the state and county fairs I have been to this would be up there with the best). I’ve spotted the funnel cakes. Lunch is sorted now we can check out everything else. Found a great exhibition hall with many fabulous quilts displayed and quilters working on projects. Had to walk through a couple of times to appreciate them all. Spoke to a couple of ladies about some of the quilts and how they were put together. One we particularly liked called “The Ranch” was laser cut appliqués. The background was only two fabrics but it was stunning.

Back outside we checked out the Bison Fibre store and purchased some hiking socks to try. There are a variety of stores from tacky souvenirs to leather products, pottery to portraits and everything in between. Food and alcohol to suit every taste bud around. We sat and watched a lumberjack show before purchasing some turkey legs and pork ribs and a couple of cream puffs with cream and berry sauce to take with us for dinner tonight. After spending the afternoon at the fair we headed off down the road, driving for a couple of hours before pulling up stumps at a rest stop on the Nelchina River. On the way we passed the Matanuska Glacier, but didn’t stop this time as we have been in before and we have seen other glaciers this trip.

(P-It’s dinner time and my favourite cruise waiters don’t appear! No Sous Chef, No Pastry chef, So I guess it’s me for the main course preparation! I suggested Judith could “up the game” and become Pastry Chef, – the response I got to that suggestion will remain unpublished! )

18th. Day 7

Today started at 11.30pm last night when we were woken from sleep with an announcement that the Northern Lights were visible. So up and dressed in warm clothes and out onto the deck to watch. A green tinge colours the sky behind the mountains. After 30 minutes of freezing we head back to bed.

5.30am we are back up and dressed warm and out on deck. Wow!!! Wow!!!

What a view to wake up to, Margerie Glacier and Grand Pacific Glacier, Glacier Bay National Park. The photos will show how majestic this place is. As the sun rises the mountains behind the glacier turn pink and the sky is a clear cloudless blue.

After breakfast we are off for our last cruise paddle. I have been waiting for this for the last week and am beyond excited. I get to paddle in front of a huge glacier and touch an ice berg. (P- oh, by the way I was paddling also! Don’t forget Phil!) The water is so blue and so still. Icebergs bob along the surface and we can hear the glacier calving in the distance. 2 1/2 hours spent paddling along the face of the glacier and across the bay to a waterfall. This place is majestic. To sit on the kayak with silence all around us and be surrounded by glaciers that were formed thousands of years ago, is very humbling and awe inspiring. (P- paddling around the glacier is way better than the gondola rides in Venice ! A great memory for us).

20th

We arrive in Juneau at 5.30 am in order to dock before the cruise ships start arriving. Breakfast and disembarkation by 8.30. A fantastic cruise in a very beautiful part of the world.

We spend the morning wandering around Juneau. Its historic Main Street area has changed quite a bit since we were here in 2000. During the morning 5 cruise ships dock, (about 10,000 people) spend their morning checking out the tacky souvenir shops (made in China) and diamond shops.

At 1 pm we meet Driver Dave, (tours by Locals) who took us on a road trip around the area. 3 hours checking out most of the main roads here. He was a great guide with lots of local information. He dropped us back at the Ramada where we checked in and caught up on some washing before we fly to Anchorage tomorrow.

16th Day 5

During breakfast we had an update from Captain Adam re the prop problem. We are awaiting a float plane to deliver a diver to clear the prop of debris. Fortunately we were able to limp to our destination for today just on one motor last night, so todays plans are going ahead as usual.)

9am we are off on a Skiff tour with Katie. It’s almost low tide so we can explore the intertidal zone. Examining sea stars, barnacles, a sandbar at the base of a waterfall. Then zipping across the bay to a little secluded cove that the guides hadn’t been into before. We spotted kingfisher as we entered the cove through a narrow channel and then it opened out into a very small cove that was just gorgeous. We sat for a while and just absorbed nature.

(P- everyone seems to look forward to the “Quiet meditation times” and they report all sorts of birds singing and creeks running etc. All I hear is the “ symphony of tinnitus ringing in my ears” and nothing else. To me the sounds of an outboard running, people talking and laughing to drown out the tinnitus is a far more pleasant option!)

Stunning beauty totally surrounds us.

Back down the bay to watch some sea lions and poke our nose up the creek. Couldn’t get too far as there were lots of obstacles blocking the way.

After lunch we are back out on the kayaks.

(P- we are quite the team and I suggested we throw one on the roof for our next Aussie adventure but Judith isn’t real eager to Kayak in tropical crocodile infested waters!)

It’s so amazing paddling around these bays. We head to the waterfalls and spend some time watching and listening while we are there on our own. Then paddle along the shore line toward the creeks at the end of the bay. The sun is breaking through the clouds and the mountains are showing their tops. Down in the sea grass beds the seals are floating and small black heads appear and disappear as we float between them. A float plane flies overhead and we all expect it to land as our rescue plane, but no it just disappears into the distance. Time flies when we are out on the water and after 2 hours we are ordered back to the ship.

Shortly after our float plane arrives landing just nearby and taxis over towards the ship. Diver Dan appears with all his gear to dive down and inspect the tangled motor. It takes him longer to don all his gear than it does for him to dive down and disentangle the crab pot that we collected last night.

(P- I did offer the Captain my Swiss Army knife so he could dive down and do a DIY job on the prop but he opted for a $10,000 fix option! No sense of adventure).

17th. Day 6

We have cruised all night heading to a new area, Iniun Cove. Just before breakfast we anchor, then raise anchor and try again but the swell is too big and will be unsafe for loading and unloading skiffs so Captain decides to move on to this afternoons location. (P- or more likely he relocates to prevent motion sickness for the many unmarinised passengers). Instead of a skiff tour we are now Bushwhacking this morning. We head off with Jess as our guide and land on the beach a short distance away. Jess hasn’t bushwhacked here before so this should be fun!!

Up the creek and then heading uphill, we follow a bear track, climbing through brush, up and over tree roots, spotting fungi along the way. It’s a steep uphill climb until we come to a muskeg bog area. It’s spongy under foot and each step moisture bubbles up around our feet. This muskeg can be very deep in spots so we avoid the clear water ponds which can be deceiving as to how deep they are. Reaching the top of the hill we have a great view out over the bay and island. A great spot for photos and selfies. Then it’s back down through the trees and down the steep rocky and muddy small cliff back to the beach for a pickup. Another fantastic walk through pristine forest.

Back to the ship for lunch and while we are dining we are moving to another location at the end of Idaho Inlet. As we cruise up the inlet there are sightings of whales, so we are hoping for more sightings on our skiff tour this afternoon. We are first up after lunch and head off with Jess our guide again travelling back towards the open waters. Several sightings of whales spouting as we travel up. We slow to follow a whale we’ve seen and watch as it surfaces, spouts and dives several times. More sightings and more spouts, pectoral fins and flukes are seen. So much fun watching for the spouts and motoring closer to get some great views. We probably saw half a dozen whales all up while Jess gave us information about their habits and lives here in Alaska.

Heading back we stop to check out a small seagrass meadow and creek, spotting sunflower sea stars and jelly fish, seals and sea otters. It’s been a fun couple of hours. Once we are back Ian and Philip head out on a kayak for about 40 minutes to help fill in the afternoon.

Saturday 12th

Embarkation day for our Uncruise Alaska Exploration Cruise. We don’t board until 4.30 so we still have a day to fill in around Sitka, unfortunately it is raining very hard. We don’t checkout of our hotel and have our luggage collected until 11am so we don our wet weather gear and head out for a walk to fill in some time. We head around town to areas we haven’t seen yet, this includes more boats one of which is the Safari Endeavour which will be our home for the next week. Back to the Hotel to get rid our our luggage and then walk down to the hospitality centre where we sit round for a while waiting for the rain to ease. By 12.30 it’s still bucketing down so we don our coats and head up to the Bayview pub for some lunch. Everyone must have the same idea as it’s packed. After a nice lunch we are back to the hospitality centre to while away the rest of the afternoon until our bus collects us and delivers us to the ship. Apparently Sitka has had 3” rain in the last 24 hours.

We settle into room 311 and then down to the lounge for introductions and some details about the cruise and then dinner. There are 62 passengers and 31 crew on board. 20 kayaks and 3 skiffs. We are cruising tonight until about 10pm.

13th

7.30 is breakfast after which we meet in the lounge to find out what activities will be offered this afternoon. We choose to go Bushwacking (making our way through the bush from the beach, making our own path, over and under and through whatever blocks our way.) After lunch we don our wet weather gear, gum boots, coats, trousers and hats and head down to the aft deck ready to board the skiff which will take us to the shore where we will start our bushwhack with Amanda.

We’ve hardly got off the beach before finding blueberries, which we sample. It’s a really fun 2 hours as we walk, climb, slip and slide through the bush, over muskeg, through juniper bushes, through creeks and up and over logs.

The muskeg was really interesting it very mossy boggy areas with lots of small ponds and water lilys. This is a very fragile area and we have to avoid walking in each others footsteps so we don’t form pathways. There are some lovely views across the ponds and various landscapes.

We find many varieties of berries, lots of bear scat, skunk cabbage and heaps of other interesting plants. We stop and spend a few minutes just sitting absorbing the beauty of the bush around us, the smells and the sounds. After 2 hours we head back to the beach and back onto the ship to change our clothes and enjoy a cocktail before dinner. While we were finishing dinner a whale was spotted just off the side of the boat. We quickly finished our dinner and headed out onto the deck while the captain slowed the ship and we enjoyed some time watching the whales. A special way to finish off the day.

14th

Breakfast again at 7.30. Having a cooked breakfast every day could get a bit much but we will enjoy it while we can. Our first activity today is in Hanus Bay, a “hard hike” to Lake Eva at 9 am, so again we don the wet weather gear and head off on the skiff with Matty as our guide. He sets a solid pace as we head away from the shore up into the forest. We pass Eva Lagoon and continue on winding our way through the bush. One of our fellow hikers spots some bears across the river so we stop and watch the mumma bear and her 3 cubs for a while as they played by the edge of the river. Further on we reach the lovely Lake Eva where we take some time to enjoy the view before returning on the same track.

While eating lunch today were are on the move to our next destination of Saook Bay where we are going to be kayaking. By 2 pm we are all set to go and we head down to the fantail at the aft of the boat where we load ourselves into the kayak. Philip in front, me in the rear. This is a great way to get into the kayaks as we load on the dock and are then pushed off into the water. This is a guided kayak with Matty. (P- thats Matty twice today! And to be honest twice too many- he dribbles with verbal diarrhoea incessantly! And to make matters worse he doesn’t make sense! Apart from him all the 31 crew and 62 passengers are fantastic!) Once we are all in the water we paddle over to the shore line in the pouring rain just to get the feel of the kayak. Paddling along for a while before crossing the bay to the opposite side, which is smoother water and paddle around the edge of the bay down towards a small creek/slough. As we paddle down the slough we hear from other groups that there is a bear about. We can see it in the distance but our guide holds us back, not sure why, so by the time we get down the creek the bear is gone. We saw it in the distance but others got a close look. After a couple of hours paddling it’s time to head back. We are wet and slightly cold but it’s been an awesome experience. Paddling up the creek with the salmon swimming along. The waters so clear.

14th

We have moved on again to another location and this morning are at Kasnyku Bay. A skiff tour this morning towards a fish Hatchery. We spend the first hour watching over 20 bears around the area. Mum and cubs, big males, 2 year old cubs. It’s awesome watching them catch fish, tussle with each other, play in the water. We are so close to them and can hear their grunts and growls. Moving away from this area we swing around to watch more cubs being protected by mumma bear from several bigger bears as they pass by.

Then we headed away from this bay around to “the Ell”, an L shaped bay, nearby. A gorgeous bay with yet another bear on the shoreline. Stopping the motor and all sitting silently we soak in the beauty of this area. Eagles, herons, bears, waterfalls, trees and shoreline. All majestically beautiful. The words from “How Great thou Art” totally sum up our feelings

“When through the woods and forest glades I wander

And hear the birds sing sweetly in the trees

When I look down from lofty mountain grandeur

And hear the brook and feel the gentle breeze

Then sings my soul, my saviour God to thee,

How Great Thou Art, How Great Thou Art.”

Back on the ship to shed some layers before enjoying a nice lunch (P- seared tuna salad for me x2 and it was delicious as with all meals so far- well apart from the green tea cake they tried to serve me up for lunch)! and a quiet afternoon until 3.30 when we are off paddling again.

Clad in our wet weathers we are launched into the water for our 2 hours of kayaking. Heading towards the shoreline and around into the head of the bay. We come across several waterfalls and paddle across to watch them tumble into the creek and out into the bay. Again some spectacular scenery and beautiful trees clinging to the edge of the bay. Mountains tower above us but we only see them fleetingly as the clouds break and regather. The water is smooth and still and we are so insignificant in this area.

After dinner we had a trivia night. Helen and I and Philip and Ian (when not snoozing). We actually did really well, coming in 2nd, with 95 points. Surprisingly we could nut out most of the answers and got the three bonus questions correct so made up some points.

(P- Drama on the high seas!)

Just after turning in for the night we heard what sounded like the anchor being lowered. Not once but twice within a couple of minutes and we were still moving. Shortly after Captain Adam came over the PA that we had hit a crab pot line which had wound around one of our our props!