Natures Architecture

Mataranka

We have spent several lovely days catching up with friends from Perth, WA, at Mataranka Hot Springs. We arrived on the 11th after driving down from Darwin and Ken and Cherie arrived on the 12th after coming across from Mt Isa/Camoweal area. We then spent time wallowing in the Hot Pools, catching up on news, enjoying the restaurant and live music and a drive around to Bitter Springs for a float along the river. All in all we had a great time relaxing and catching up.

Enjoying Mataranka with Ken and Cherie

(P:- Great to catch up with friends. Mataranka Homestead and Hot Springs are a favourite place and bring back great memories of the times I have flown in here by light plane with Friend’s Peter and Rad from WA. Road trips to places like this give a completely different perspective to flying – both great – How lucky am I / we to be able to do both!

We hit the road again, fuelled and fooded up for a few days “Off the beaten Track”. Following the Roper River from Mataranka we hit the narrow beef road for a few kilometres and then the gravel. A good solid gravel road that winds through scrub land, Savannah and along the river. Some good spots of Bull Dust sends dust flying, thankfully there are very few vehicles on the road and all are going in the opposite direction. In 250 kilometres we cross over 50 floodways. These varied from small shallow drains to large dips, creek crossings and open plains where water just flows over the road. It would be amazing to see in the wet. We spent our first night at Tomato Island Campground and watched several guys launch their dingys into the river. None were very positive about catching anything.

Floodwsys

Next morning we continue heading south and stop for smoko at Thompson River Campground on the Thompson River. This was a gorgeous spot and we enjoyed viewing the river as we had our coffee and tea. At least here the fishermen had had some bites but nothing made it ashore. Heading further south we continue through ever changing country. Rocky tors, grass land, and burned off areas, spotting wild donkeys, horses, cattle and buffalo. We set up camp at Butterfly Falls, a lovely waterhole and a habitat for the Crow Butterfly, A neat little camp area and the only designated safe place to swim in Limmen Nat Park.

Limmen NP

Western Lost City

We are off to do a 4WD trip today from Butterfly Falls to the Western Lost City and return. This Lost City is a bit harder to get to. We have the gate code and are off just before 8am to beat the heat of the day. As we pass through the gate, we sign in and start the 28 kilometre route as it winds across Savannah lands, black soil plains, sandy stretches and through creek beds, over rocky knobs and past rapidly drying billabongs. It takes us about 90 minutes to make the trip. As we near our destination the Lost City comes into view and it is magnificent. As the last kilometres wind around the bases of these colourful rock columns we are amazed. Once parked we can walk around these towering spires and marvel at the various colours, shapes and sizes.

The 4 WD track in
Western Lost City

We flew over this area several years ago on one of our flying trips. From the air the spires look like a city with its towering skyscrapers, hence the name.

(P:- After flying over this area a few years back I promised myself I would drive back to explore at ground level. Of course the author was welcome to accompany me 🙂. Limmen Nat Park is one of Australia’s newer and lesser known Parks, established 2012. It is remote and noted to be one of Australia’s harder National Parks to access. The park is where the Nathan River Station was once, the old homestead and surrounding buildings now the Park Headquarters. Much evidence of the pastoral days is still there to see, stockyards, fences and station tracks. As for wildlife most we saw was introduced ( but still interesting to view). Herds of Donkeys, several Water Buffalo and we even saw 2 or 3 Wild “Scrubber” Bulls -massive and well aged ( from the station days) wandering around. When we stopped to take a photo they were off to the scrub. A park with basic facilities but we found most enjoyable and scenic).

Buffalo, Donkeys, Pelicans and Kingfishers

Southern Lost City

Just half hours drive from our camp is the Southern Lost City. We have heard varying reports that this is the best one but we will see. The campground here was burnt out several years ago and not as many come in but we are here so we will do it.

Our initial thoughts were that they don’t look as impressive as the Western City, not as high or as colourful but as we start to walk the 2.5 kilometre walking trail we change our minds. Yes they are different but still impressive. Many are leaning over as if the wind came through and blew them all all in one direction. The walk winds between, around, through and above the columns giving us a close up look and taking us to the ridge line where we can look out across the valley at more outcrops of this type. Around every corner is another spectacular view. Even treated with communes of Crow Butterflies, flowering trees and plants to add to the beauty of this place.

Southern Lost City

(P:- the access road thru the Park is reasonably challenging and vehicles need to be well prepared. As is often the case I am approached for a screw or a bolt or some other hardware that has malfunctioned on a fellow travellers van or vehicle. “Phil’s Hardware” yet again gets the person out of trouble! I often think my Chev must have (invisible to me ) Hardware Store signs painted on it. Anyways it’s fun to be able to help out! The unfortunate part is the only currency offered is “free beer” in exchange and I don’t drink!

Some Local Flora
Amazing Formations

Delightful Darwin

6th-11th August

We’ve made it to Darwin. Settled into Camp, done some washing, had a swim and picked up a hire car for the next couple of days. Lilly tells me she can finally go shopping, not sure what shopping will be like here but that is our plan for tomorrow. We found out where the best mall is and Lilly is up and raring to go early the next morning. We are heading out to Casurina and Lilly has money to spend. Philip finds a massage place and enjoys an hours pummelling while Lilly and I check out the shops. Some purchases are made by both of us and we are all happy.

Later in the afternoon we find an amazing caravan spare parts store. Philip says it’s the best he’s seen in Australia. They have the bits that he wants and some more. Back to the van late afternoon for a swim and relax. Philip has had his truck serviced today as well. That’s the main reason we got the hire car. Good job done while we are here in Darwin.

Late afternoon we drive down to Mindil Beach Sunset Market and enjoy some tasty treats for dinner while we listen to some good music and watch the sun set.

Mindil Beach Sunset Market

Friday we head into the city in the afternoon. Currently the Darwin Aboriginal Arts Festival is on at various places around the city. We venture into the Exhibition Centre to check out some of the artwork, paintings, weaving, books and fashions. (P:- last time I was in Darwin Exhibition Centre was to go to the “Big Boys Toys” Camping and out door show, Some of the Indigenous Art on display was impressive, and with price tag to match. Certainly worth a look). Then to the city centre where we find an icecream shop and sit and enjoy a tasty Icecream. Around 5 pm we head down to the dock where we are catching the Cape Adieu yacht for a sunset dinner cruise around the harbour. It’s a beautiful evening with barely a breeze and we are all looking forward to the next couple of hours.

Darwin Arts
Indigenous Fashions

Dinner was delicious, prawns, ceviche and oysters for starters, barramundi or steak for mains and chocolate panna cotta for desert. A lovely way to spend the evening and watch the sun set and the moon rise over the city

Sunset Cruise Dining
Sunset

Saturday is Lilly’s last day before she flies home late tonight. We are driving down to Batchelor to visit a butterfly farm but are very disappointed when they tell us that they don’t have many butterflies currently. Waste of a couple of hours for nothing. We drive back towards Berry Springs as we have been told this is a great place to visit for a swim. First stop though is the Berry Springs Tavern for an early lunch. Then on to walk down to the springs and check them out. The water here is from a geothermal spring and is a constant 28 degrees. Several clear blue pools overhung with pandanus and various other trees are very enticing and it doesn’t take long for me to jump in for a refreshing swim.

Berry Springs

We are then back to the van for Lilly to finish packing and have a nap before her late flight home tonight. It’s been a wonderful time spent with her over the last two and a half weeks, showing her some of Australia’s awesome places. (P:- what fun the last 5 weeks has been, first with Hugh and Emily and then Lilly Joined us for the Alice to Darwin leg ( via Ayres Rock) it’s been great to show some of our Grand Children some of the Aussie Outback – how lucky are Judith and I to share this time with them! Gunna be quiet now as these Grandies seem to thrive in stirring the crap outta their Pa).

Lilly’s Trip with us

Amazing Kakadu

3rd -6th August

After arriving in Cooinda and setting up its off to the pool for me. Very refreshing and a nice spot to laze the afternoon away.

The bus picks us up from reception for the sunset cruise and delivers us to the boat dock around 4.30 for a two hour cruise. It’s a beautiful evening and Yellow Waters Billabong and the South Alligator River are teeming with life. Crocodiles, not Alligators live here. Big, fat salt water crocs. There are plenty of birds about and our guide Batch (from South Africa) is very knowledgeable about them all. Jabiru, egrets, white bellied sea eagles, whistling ducks and kingfisher are all about. Crocs lie along the riverbank, some partially submerged, others soaking in the last of the suns rays on the banks. The granddaddy of all the crocs here is Van Gogh, a one eared croc that is massive at 6 metres was lying on the bank and barely moved as we cruised right up to him. (P:- the big croc had the meanest set of teeth! And a very aged, scared skin. Evidently crocs teeth re grow after being lost in a fight or eating a tough old buffalo or similar. Van Gogh may have grown over 2000 teeth in his lifetime).

Yellow Waters Cruise
Van Gogh and other Crocs
Sunset

The river winds through floating grass and reed beds, with lotus lilies in patches throughout and along the edges. Tiny Jacana (Jesus Birds, because they walk on water), padded about the Reed beds, their two tiny babies scooted around after dad who does all the raising of the chicks.

Jacana Birds (look close to see the chicks) and Vegetation

As we turned to head back towards the dock the sun starts to set over the river and billabong. The quiet of the night, the sounds of the birds and the sun turning the sky golden bring an end to this lovely cruise.

Next morning Philip and I are up early to do the sunrise cruise. Pickup is at 6.30 as dawn breaks and we are on the water shortly after. Steam rises from the water creating an eerie cloud as the sun peaks over the horizon and turns the sky pink. Our guide today is Jess, from the Blue Mountains in NSW. The birds are out in force this morning, and although Jess has told us we probably won’t see many crocs this morning , we are barely away from the dock and one is cruising down the river, no ripples, no splashes just eyes and nose and a small part of its back visible and it’s huge tail moving back and forth propelling it along.

Sunrise

Jess takes us on a different route to last nights cruise and we see six white bellied sea eagles, a large flock of pelicans, jabiru or black neck storks as they are correctly named. Saw a buffalo and calf in the distance. The scenery is just gorgeous and there are many reflections, beautiful trees, birds, crocodiles and stunning views. After our fill of gorgeousness we head back to the van for breakfast and then off for a hike.

Sunrise Cruise

(P:- Two very informative scenic cruises on the iconic waterway. Both this cruise and the Katherine gorge cruise are evidently Indigenous owned businesses, which is great – It’s a pity they weren’t ( in my experiences) Indigenous Operated! A bit sad that us tourists have to be guided and informed of our Australian history, nature and geography by overseas backpackers ( in most cases). Same applies to shop attendants and hospitality workers. Sad really)!

We are driving out to a Jim Jim Falls, a two hour drive from the caravan park, the first part is just gravel road then the last 10 k is a 4WD track, narrow, winding, creek crossings and bumps. Lilly was not too keen on the bumps and kept complaining, Paaa that bump was a bit much, Paaa did you have to hit that bump. Made it a fun drive. Once we reached the car park we had a good hours walk ahead of us. It started off quite easy but soon we were negotiating huge boulders, rocky, narrow paths and beautiful views along the way. We did wonder whether it would be worth the effort but as we reached the base of the falls it was awe inspiring.

Track Into Jim Jim Falls

Jim Jim Falls drops 200 metres from the Arnhem Escarpment into Jim Jim Creek. The water is clear and cold but refreshing. After taking a rest, having a snack and drink and soaking in the beauty surrounding us it’s back to rock climbing and boulder hopping to make our way back to the truck. Lilly did an amazing job, at several points leading the way and quite enjoyed the experience. By the time we made the return trip up the 4WD track and back to Coinda it was late afternoon and time for another swim and some dinner. (P:- can add Jim Jim Falls and the area into a sight in my top 100 it would be fair to say! Awesome day out (even with Miss Lilly as my back seat driver)!

The Walk In
200 metre Drop, Jim Jim Falls
Looking the Other Way

Katherine

1st and 2nd August

After a lovely couple of days at Mataranka we are on the move this morning to Katherine, just 100 kilometres up the road. An easy trip and we are all set up in our campsite by lunchtime. After lunch we head into town for some essential groceries then back to camp. Katherine hot springs are just 600 metres away so we don the bathers and head off for a dip.

Katherine Hot Springs

(P:- Katherine is a service town for local cattle stations, Mango Farms and is close by the Tindal RAAF Base. It has a good amount of service industries and stores. The town looks a little scruffier than Alice Springs or Tennant Creek but it is a busy little place).

There are upper and lower pools here and we are closer to the upper ones so that’s where we start. Thought they might be a turn off for Lilly because the access was down a ladder and into the pool, she did it bravely and floated around for quite a while watching as others climbed over the small wall and slid into the creek on the other side to float down to the lower pools. When we decided to get out she said she would like float down the creek so over the wall her and I went and floated downstream. All was good until we came to a low bridge where she would have had to put her head underwater, and that wasn’t going to happen, so we scaled the bank walked across the bridge and slid back into the water for the remainder of the float. The lower pools were much busier and had quite a strong current but she did a great job and we both enjoyed the experience.

Saturday morning we drive out to Nitmiluk Gorge to do the two gorge cruise. There is about 40 on the cruise boat as we head off up stream passing ancient cliffs, massive boulders and trees towering over us. After about 30 minutes we pull into a dock, climb out of the boat and walk 600 metres across a rocky barrier, passing some rock art high on a cliff face and then down to another boat waiting to take us further upstream. In the first part of the second gorge several movies and tv shows have been filmed. Rogue, (a horror film) about a rogue crocodile terrorising a tour boat, (glad that’s not happening today), Top End Wedding (2019), Jedda was the first filmed here in 1955. Also the well known commercial “you’ll never never know, if you never ever go” featured Darryl Sommers floating downstream on a lilo.

Nitmiluk Gorge

We spent a very pleasant two hours traversing the first two gorges. There are nine gorges all up.

Later in the afternoon we head out to Katherine Outback Experience. Tom Curtain shows his prowess breaking horses and working with cattle dogs. An interesting show but the dinner after was more enjoyable. Outdoors, under the stars and fabulous food. A great night.

Outback Experience
Dinner Under the Stars

Dinner Menu

Sliced Kangaroo Fillet, Prosciutto, Smoked Ham with a selection of Australian and Imported Cheeses served with Damper and Crisp Breads. 

Mains – Slow Roasted Lamb cooked with signature bush spices, served with roasted baby potatoes, NT Barramundi topped with citrus herb sauce served with broccolini & sauteed spinach. Dragonfly Goddess Salad with mixed greens, peppitas, cranberries, feta cheese & signature dressing. Beetroot & Za’atar Salad – roasted beetroot tossed with chickpeas finished with Za’atar dressing. 

Dessert – Mango Cheesecake: Local mangoes whipped with cream cheese topped on a delicious biscuit base. Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta topped with Blueberry Compote and Almond Flour Brownies.

(P:- I need to interject with the Authors comment above! The “Outback Experience” was meant for me! It was a fantastic show, not make believe and glossed up as seen on tv stuff. Tom is a professional Horse and Dog trainer, and has turned his trade into a tourism event as well. In the show he uses unbroken horses and demonstrates how to break them for riding. This evening his Daughter ( probably around 17 ) demonstrated her skills in horse breaking which were very impresssive. The horse, livestock and dog show in the second half was very cleverly presented. Dinner under the stars was delicious and set in the beautiful front garden of Tom’s House. This was Phil’s chosen night out and was a great one)!

Mataranka

29 July to 1st Aug

What an amazing place to spend a few relaxing days. We are camped at the Territory Manor and Caravan Park, half way between Mataranka Hot Springs and Bitter Springs. When we arrive we’re a bit disappointed as Bitter Springs is closed due to a crocodile in the area. Hopefully it will be open before we leave as this is one place I really wanted to see. We are all settled in soon after midday so we head off to Mataranka. Philip and I are keen for a swim, Lilly not so much. (P:-Correction Judith the Swim, Phil just floats or wallows!). Lilly sits on the edge and watches as we enjoy an hour in the 34 degree water. It’s amazing, crystal clear, warm and very relaxing. Couldn’t convince Lilly to join us though. Back to the van and some sorting out and more relaxing. I had a swim in the resort pool, not as nice as the thermal pool though. It’s been 34 degrees most of the day and only cooling down to around 26 at night.

Mataranka Thermal Pool

Next morning it’s washing day to try and catch up. And of course cleaning (P:- yep a man’s work is never done). and then we are off to the Thermal pool again. This time Lilly joined us. Couldn’t get her in yesterday, now we can’t get her out. She loved it. After a time floating, relaxing, chatting and enjoying the warm water we head up to the cafe for some lunch. Yummy Barramundi and chips. A checkout of the souvenir shop and then we are off to Bitter Springs that has just opened, less a crocodile. (P:- Bitter springs has been closed a couple a times this season because of a suspected Croc sighting. Then reopened and then closed again – the croc was sighted again and unfortunately attacked some ladies little ankle biter dog! 2 morals to the true story 1)- Crocs like dog for snacks 2- Dogs are not allowed in National Parks let alone swimming holes! Maybe the ignorant owner may learn a lesson out of this as sad as it would be. The croc was caught and relocated). Bitter Springs is slightly warmer than Mataranka and you jump in one end and float 500 metres downstream where you hop out, walk back to the start and go again. (P:- it’s a very much better ride than the Theme Parks offer! 1- it’s free, 2- it’s natural and beautiful 3-no theme park lines to wait in forever! 4- Bitter Springs is better than beautiful it’s a natures wonderland)! We did the first run and Lilly was not as comfortable here. It’s a much more natural setting, with moss and reeds along the edges, stumps and stones along the creek bottom and overhead towering palms. Lilly preferred Mataranka so we hop in the car and head back there for another float around for another hour or so.

(P:-There is a watermelon farm on the road to the springs with a roadside stall – Judith loves watermelon so one is purchased – interesting fact it can be 35 degrees and yet if you fresh pick a watermelon and slice it open it’s red flesh is as cool as – amazing).

Back to the van late afternoon to cook dinner and sort washing. I’m exhausted, didn’t know floating in warm water could tire you out so much.

Bathing Beauties

31st is another lazy morning. Philip chatted to the guy next door who is having vehicle trouble and gave him some hints. (P:- A great guy from Victoria and his wife. Nothing like dropping the sump and changing an oil pump in a campground! I lent him some tools and advice and left for the hot pools without greasy hands! The help was rewarded with the offer to go Samba deer hunting on his property in the Alpine area of Victoria. His contact details are recorded for future reference). Late morning we head back to Mataranka, Lillys choice for some more floating and relaxing, lunch at the cafe again then back to the van. Late afternoon Philip and I head back to Bitter Springs and float the creek 3 times, takes about 1/2 hour each time. This is such a gorgeous spot, we may have to come back. (P:- yes in about 12 days time I suggest).

Bitter Springs
Picked up a Water Melon from Roper Plains Farm

Quirky Stops Travelling North

26-29th July

A few big days of travel to get us north and into warm weather. Almost as soon as we left Alice Springs the temperature started to rise and the days and nights became warmer.

Athelle Outback Hideaway (P:- From the “Outback Farm”Tv series and also the Muranji Drillers from “Outback Truckers” a hay farm and visitor stay they are developing 35 klm up a dirt track 250 klm north of Alice Springs)
Devils Marbles
Camera Lessons with Pa
Lilly’s Photograph
Barrow Creek Pub
Barrow Creek Pub and Servo
Barrow Creek Church Service in the Pubs Foyer (watching an American Church Program on the TV)
Spinifex Ridge Farm Stay Sunset
Spinifex Ridge on Tennant Creek Station (1,000,000 acres)
Spinifex Ridge, Cattle Muster, Interesting formation in Sunsetting Sky, We suspect a rocket or missile launch in the Tanami Dessert from the 19 country Military exercise currently taking place.
Telegraph Station Tennant Creek
Daly Waters Pub
Daly Waters Pub
Road Train Action (P:- Gotta love Road Trains, camped 50m from Stuart Highway in a rest stop so we (I) could enjoy the sound and light show all night)👍👍
Lilly thought it was hilarious Pa was taking photos or videos of every road train that went past.

Alice Springs and Uluru, Take two

After delivering Em and Hugh to the Airport and collecting Lilly, (P:- The author makes our wonderful travelling Grandies sound like “Qantas Freight packages! The way they all eat it’s way cheaper just to buy seats on Qantas Flights)! We headed back into Alice Springs to get some lunch and groceries before heading back to the van for a quiet afternoon. (Lilly has a cold and needs a rest after an early morning flight). We introduce Lilly to her accommodation for the next 2 weeks, the “Tenthouse”.

23rd, Mid morning we drive out to Standley Chasm with Lilly and take the short walk to view this geological feature. It almost midday and we can see the suns rays moving down the sides of chasm, bringing a warm glow to the red rock. We then move on to Simpson Gap. This is a more open gorge and there are quite a few people just enjoying the area with picnics and kids climbing the rocks. Beautiful River Gums line the river bed and contrast with the rocky cliffs along the gorge. Back into town and we head up Anzac Hill for a view over the city before finding a cafe for lunch. Yummy steak sandwiches and cheese burger and chips. Lilly and I walk down to Todd Mall to go to the visitors centre where we both make a purchase and then back to the Woolworths Mall to meet Philip, pick up a few essentials we forgot yesterday and then back to the van by mid afternoon.

Standley Chasm

(P:- We have all enjoyed our 5 or 6 days around Alice Springs. It’s a remote “outpost “ kinda city”, well equipped with services and supplies, the local businesses are friendly and helpful along with quite a few other locals we met. Sure there are some racial issues but these are no worse than previous visits and certainly not horrific like the “social armchair media” experts portray! As the locals told us mind your own business and they will mind theirs. Alice is a town well worth spending time exploring).

Simpson Gap

24th

Uluru, take two.

We are on the road early this morning as we have 450 k to travel to Uluru. We stop at Erldunda Roadhouse mid morning for a snack and a loo break. They had very tasty egg and bacon sandwiches and toasties. We arrived at Uluru early afternoon with 35 knot winds blowing and dust swirling everywhere. Rain forecast for tonight but clearing tomorrow. We head out to watch the sunset but it’s a little lack lustre tonight With too many clouds. Back to the van and dinner to cook. Schnitzels from Milners Meats (P:-would rate as one of the best butchers I have had the pleasure in visiting! 2klm outta town on a side street it’s not to be missed)! which were very tasty. Lilly is sleeping in the van with us tonight as Philip and I are getting up early to do the Sunrise Rock Viewing and it means she doesn’t have to be kicked out of the rooftop tent for us to take the vehicle.

Sunset Viewing

After a rainy night, about 20mm we are off at 5.30am to watch the Sunrise. Enough rain to stop the dust but not enough to really make the waterfalls flow. Oops NP gate doesn’t open until 6.30. Thanks Philip I could have had an hours more sleep. (P:- you would think I would get “early credits” to make up for the occasional time I am late rather than complaints)!!! Again the colours aren’t great but it’s the experience of watching the dawn break over the Rock that we are here for. Toasted sandwiches and hot drinks in the car park to warm up before driving back to the van. (P:- Courtesy of my 12 v Sandwich Toaster)!

Sunrise
Sunrise

Mid morning Lilly and Philip are off to do a camel ride, a first for Lilly. Both of them are riding solo today, Philip on Jed again and Lilly on Panacea. They both enjoyed the ride and the experience.

Philip and Lilly Camel Riding

After lunch we all drive back in to the base of Uluru to do a couple of walks. The first one is to Kantju Gorge. There is still some water trickling down the falls here and it’s a beautiful walk into the small gorge. Rock paintings and rock formations along the way make the walk interesting. Muṯitjulu waterhole is our next walk, winding in through the trees to a small oasis surrounded by towering rock walls.

Kantju Gorge

It’s quite amazing the difference being here twice in 10 days is. Windy both times but 28 degrees with a Hugh and Em and 16 degrees with Lilly. Amazing colour on the rock at sunset first time and barely any change in colour second time. Trickles of water on the rock second time round. But great experiences with our grandkids both times.

Field of Lights with Lilly tonight. Not near as many people about tonight as school holidays have finished. Also a different experience as there was no full moon so we could see the milky way over the lights. Looked fantastic.

Field of Lights
Lights and Milkyway
I think I’ve lost my seat.

Alice Springs and Chambers Pillar

20-07-25

After travelling the Mereenie Loop (the very corrugated dirt back road) from Kings Canyon to Alice Springs, stopping off at Ormiston Gorge and Ellery Big Hole, we enjoy a very relaxing day catching up on washing, groceries and a few maintenance jobs. Em and Hugh spend time in the pool and on the bouncing pillow. (Yes, they are not too old yet to avoid the pillow). We enjoyed some Asian food from the food vans at the park for dinner then Em and Hugh cooked a lovely lemon pudding for dessert.

Ormiston Gorge (top), Ellery Creek Big Hole

Today 20th we are heading to Cambers Pillar and that means another early start at, as Em says, “stupid o’clock”. We have discovered that she is NOT a morning person but does get going if needed to. We are on the road by 7.30, heading south towards Mary Vale Station.

Hugh discovers that we are travelling along the Finke River Race track and is googling all sorts of information about the race and riders. Em is not so impressed. As expected, where it’s possible Philip has to drive a small portion of the track which made Hugh smile even more.

Finke Race Track

As we head further south and pass Maryvale Station we cross the Hugh River Stock Route and then the Hugh River and we are also driving through the Hugh district. The road deteriorates the closer we get to Chambers Pillar and the last 30 kilometres are over multiple sand dunes and a steep jump up and jump down.

Hugh River Stock Route and Hugh River

Chambers Pillar is a sandstone formation that rises 50 metres above the surrounding plain. John McDouall Stuart was the first European to see Chambers Pillar in 1860. After this sighting it became an important landmark for pioneers travelling from Adelaide to Alice Springs prior to the establishment of the railway. Several early explorers including Alfred Giles and John Ross, leaders of the second cross continent expedition in 1870 left their mark on the rock face.

Chambers Pillar
Explorers Inscriptions

After walking around the pillar and up onto the walkway to view the inscriptions we head back to the car and away from the flies. On the way back we stop for lunch on the side of the road, then a drive into the Petroglyphs and rock carvings at Ewaninga Conservation Reserve.

Ewaninga Rock Carvings

Back to the van mid afternoon and the kids are off to the pool again. Probably won’t see them till dinner time tonight, when they will be starving again.

(P:- It’s been a great day, an awesome drive on outback dirt roads and off the “Tourist Track”)

21st

First port of call this morning is Emily Gap. Can’t bring Em to Alice Springs and not go to Emily Gap. After some photos and a quick walk we got away from the flies and drove to Jessie Gap, another lovely spot.

Jessie Gap

Back in the truck and in to town to pick up a parcel from the post office and have a look in the souvenir shops. Todd Mall is a total let down as very few places open and it’s very dirty and unappealing. Em and I are having a restful afternoon at the van while Philip and Hugh are off to the Transport Museum.

Tonight we are trying some camel and date sausages for tea. (P:- “Try” being the operative word! Would I eat it again? Well I would wanna be getting hungry, real hungry! My Guinea Pig feast I enjoyed recently in South America was way, way better! The best thing for the Camels is send them back to the Middle East). These were recommended by our guide at the Camel farm at Uluru. He told us to go to Milner Meats on Milner Road, Alice Springs for the best butcher. He wasn’t wrong I have never seen a butchers so busy. 12 staff behind the counter and all sorts of meats and seafood available. We will be back before we leave Alice to stock up on meat supplies.

22nd

Departure day for Hugh and Emily and arrival day for Lilly. But first we have one last tourist spot to visit. We pack their bags into the truck and travel out to Stanley Chasm. After a 15 minute walk we arrive at this stunning cleft in the rocks and take the obligatory photos. Also some fun pics of the kids. I love the colours out here and the tiny flowers that survive in this harsh environment and the trees that grow between and clinging to rocks.

Standley Chasm

Back to town and a quick bite to eat as they are starving again then out to the airport. To check in and collect Lilly.

Hugh and Em have travelled with us just over 4000 kilometres, laughed, joked, ate, rode camels, took a small plane flight, found opals and rail spikes from the old Ghan. We have loved every minute of sharing these experiences with them and can’t wait to show Lilly this Red Centre of Australia.

Holding Up Standley Chasm
Emily and Hugh’s Trip

Watarrka (Kings Canyon) pt 1.

16th -17th July

What can I say, this place is spectacular. We have always loved this area and walking the Rim walk again today has not dampened our enthusiasm. I’m going to let the pictures do the talking. (P:- Kings Canyon would rate as one of my favourite walks anywhere. Today was my 6th time and it never disappointed ).

Mereenie Sandstone
Some amazing plants that grow in this barren landscape
More wonderful plants