Seldovia is only accessible by boat or plane. We board the Rainbow Connection for the 90 minute cruise, along the way we pass a bird rookery spotting nesting gulls, cormorants and puffins. Then pass through an area where sea otters are gathered. These floating Otter groups are called rafts. The sea otters have extremely thick fur, approximately 1 million hairs per square inch, which keeps them warm and waterproof as they have very minimal fat. They are very cute and several have babies resting on their stomachs as they float around. Extremely hard to get photos of as they dip underwater if we get too close. We arrive in Seldovia just on lunch time so first up find a cafe for some lunch (P- wasn’t hard to find a cafe – there was only 2 and one was closed!) after which we head off walking around the small town to visit the tourist hotspots. First stop is the St Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church built in 1891 under the leadership of Russian Orthodox Travelling Priests. The bell tower was added in 1906. The church is still used today for weddings and special events.

Only a small part of the historic boardwalk is left but it is certainly a pretty spot, even at low tide. Originally most of Seldovia was built up on stilts like these homes but when the 1964 earthquake occurred it dropped this area of the coast 10 feet and destroyed most of the original buildings. Before reboarding we find an ice cream shop and as Philip has been deprived of ice cream we decide to have one each. Limited choice of flavours but they we very nice.

(P- Deprived! I hadn’t had an ice cream in 6 or 8 weeks. When Ice-cream o’clock used to come every day. I wasn’t sure if I had relapsed to my old ways or would have enough inner strength to continue my (more ) healthy eating habits of late! Judith’s “ very nice ice cream ” was an understatement it was bloody delicious!)

(P- I wonder where CAPTAIN COOK didn’t sail to and explore? Evidently he was splashing around up here too at one stage. Cook Inlet and a few other names alerted me to research a little and yes he was here! He has also been a lot of other destinations we have visited over the years. Well done Captain Cook!)

On the return journey from Seldovia we were on the lookout for Orca. Some had been sighted back toward Homer so we were keeping our fingers crossed. Luckily we spotted some and spent the next half hour following them, watching as they surfaced and dove again. The male orca have huge dorsal fins reaching up to 6 feet. The first you see is this fin slicing through the water before they spout water then their arching back gliding smoothly back to disappear underwater again. An awesome way to finish the cruise.

Back in our RV and we are heading out of town and back toward Soldotna. We drove for a couple of hours before finding a spot to Boondock (freecamp) at Tern Lake. Had a spectacular view out our door over the lake towards the mountains.

25-27th July

Three days to explore Homer, Homer Spit and Seldovia. We are staying at Homer Spit Campground, at the tip of the Spit. The spit is 5 miles long and is the tourist hub of Homer. Tours, fishing charters, ferries, tourist traps, restaurants and cafes nestle along the shores of the spit, along with a huge 920 berth marina. There are the fish cleaning stations, large boat ramps, coast guard dock, boat mechanics and much more. A great place to wander and explore. Board walks meander along the shoreline and edge of the marina and we find it easy to clock up steps as we walk from one end to the other numerous times checking out the movement of boats and people. The first day here is just checking out places and soaking in the quirkiness of this area!

(P- Judith is correct about the quirkiness and rustic charm of the Homer Spit. It’s a feast of visual overload of a nautical theme).

The morning of the 26th we pack up the camper and head into Homer for a drive around the area. We turned right as we came off the spit and drove towards the head of the bay. It’s a beautiful drive, following the edge of the bay, looking out over the water and back towards the spit. Homesteaders here are cutting and baling hay. Only small crops and some very lopsided round bales.

At home we have watched TV series “Alaska, The Last Frontier”. Mainly for the scenery. This is actually filmed near here and we keep an eye out for the property.

(P-Well I am feeling bit cheated! “Alaska- The last Frontier” to me that conjures up thoughts of remote, isolated, homesteaders, no neighbours within a “Bulls Roar” etc. etc. The Kilcher family which the documentary is based around is 12 miles out of Homer, 3/4 of a mile from a blacktop road, has electricity to the property, A fully developed blacktop and then gravel road to their “Remote” cattle run at he “Head Of the Bay” – so the moral of this story is NEVER believe what you see on TV! Their homestead is as remote as our house is from Ulverstone!)

We walk down a track to get some views over the Head of the Bay and back along the cliffs towards Homer. Some wildflowers are about but the season is about 3 weeks late so the fireweed is not in bloom yet.

Once back at the park we wander and have a poke around some of the tourist shops and down to look at some of the many boats moored at the marina. All manner of shape, style and size. We decide that we will do a day trip cruise to Seldovia tomorrow so head up to book tickets.

July 24

Driving through from Seward to Homer today we stopped at a Beachside park for lunch. Parking was at a premium with people in waders, gum boots, trailing esky/coolers behind them with piles of stuff in small trailers all heading to the beach. The mind boggles as to what is going on. We eat a quick lunch first then head over to the beach and mouth of the Kenai River. There are hundreds of people on the beach, vehicles parked to one side, tents, shelters, chairs, tables coolers in all manner of shape and size and people everywhere. Seemed to be a real family affair!

People are standing up to chest deep in the cold water holding huge dip nets just waiting for the salmon to swim into the nets. Poor fish don’t have much chance with the number of people hoping to catch some. Once they get a fish or two in the net they drag it up onto the beach and spread the fish out on the sand or table. Once they have a stockpile of fish they clean and gut them leaving fish carcasses and guts and fish eggs littering the sand. There are seagulls everywhere and the noise is ear splitting. The gulls are so full they are not eating the scraps just pecking the eyes out. It is a truly amazing sight.

We spoke to one guy who told us that as the first member of the household could catch 25 salmon and each other member could catch 10. That meant as a family of 5 they could catch 65 fish for the year from this river, the Kenai. There was also another river he could get the same from. That’s a lot of salmon. He was also saying that there are approximately 120,000 fish per day swim the Kenai upriver to spawn.

(P- A fish in Alaska (fresh or salt water) would have to have the odds stacked against them! No matter (so far) where we go the fish are targeted by, pleasure boat, charter boat, float boat, commercial fishing boat. Add to that there are anglers river bank fishing, shore fishing (salt water), standing in freezing water chest high ( to beat the law in places there is no fishing within 10’ of the river bank) and expensive fishing equipment everywhere- Very few anglers go home empty handed and they are having fun. There is a salmon restocking program and limits on size and number of fish caught to ensure the sustainability of the industry. Me? Well so far my enjoyment has been cooking and eating fresh Halibut and Salmon both different but delicious on the plate. With a bit of luck I might get to catch a Salmon later in the trip).

July 22-23

This quaint little town is nestled on the banks of Resurrection Bay and is the gateway to the Kenai Fjords National Park. The Rv park we are in has approximately 1000 sites spread along the shores of the bay. We were not expecting to have a waterfront site but are thrilled when we eventually find site 489, right on the waterfront. The walking track separates us from the shoreline and fire pits situated along the edge, shared between 3-4 campsites. Great spot. Plenty of walking to be done here with town one way and the marina, tour area (P – and the fresh from trawler seafood!) the other and plenty of people watching to do.

Walks into the old town and marina we’re done multiple times over the time we spent here. Some lovely stores in town including a patchwork shop with some lovely fabric, patterns and kits. (I may have succumbed and made a small purchase) (P-I knew I was being conned when asked to go for a walk to the quilt shop)!. Philip found an old department store, Urbachs Clothiers, which was laid out inside like it was years ago. The original till, which was purchased in 1915 when the store was opened is still in use today for every purchase made there. (P – I had the privilege of seeing the old cash register used as I had to buy a pair of trousers and a shirt to replace the ones I left on the bed at home! Can’t blame Judith as I always pack for myself! I almost asked the lady who served me could she remember the day the cash register was installed – but that would not be good manners!)

The waterway from the marina along Resurrection bay has a continual stream of boats. In the morning they are all heading out for fishing or touring. Some returning around lunchtime before heading out a short time later with a fresh batch of fishermen or tourists and returning late afternoon. As there is 20 hours of daylight the boating starts early and finishes late. We walked up to the fish dock late afternoon as the boats were returning to see what catches they got. The largest Halibut we saw was 179 lb, (81kg). Lots of smaller halibut, yellow eye cod, salmon and various other varieties. We watched a couple of professional fishermen cleaning their catch at the cleaning station. Wow do they know how to fillet fish expertly.

We visited the Sea Life Centre, watching sea lions, puffins, Eider ducks, seals and cold water sea stars, crabs etc. then enjoyed a lovely lunch on the deck of the Sea Salt Restaurant before wandering back along the waterfront to the marina to look at the many and varied boats moored at the marina. Philip chose his, I chose mine. We can always dream big!!!!!! (P-Never did realise I was dreaming) Sitting just behind the township is Mount Marathon. 1471m high. On July 4th each year there is a Race to the top and back. For those wishing to partake of this race here are some details.

3.1 mile

3000 feet elevation

average slope steepness 34 degrees

quickest winning times are 41 minutes

July 20th

After a wet afternoon yesterday, this morning is clear with the promise of sun. We drove down to Hope township and Resurrection Creek where we watched fisherman catching Silver Salmon. Hope is an old gold mining town on the edge of Turnagain Arm, which was settled in the early 1900’s after the Turnagain Arm Gold Rush between 1896-98. At that time Hope City boomed while 3000 people passed through the area.

Hope still has some wonderful old buildings that can be viewed as you walk around the township. Philip got a coffee from the local cafe while I picked up a couple of second hand books for $1 each.

Leaving Hope we rejoin the Highway for a few miles before turning onto Kenai Lake Road and then Skilak Lake Scenic Route. We have heard that this road is good wildlife spotting area. Our first stop is just a mile down the road where we can walk down to the Kenai River and Canyon Overlook. Spotted two bald eagles perched in the trees across the slough from us while salmon jumped almost continually.

Back on the road and we spot a black bear just off to the side, then further on a rare sighting of a Lynx. We turn into Upper Skilak Lake Campground to check it out for tonight and spot a sow with 3 cubs playing on the verge beside the lake. This time we got pics. The cubs were so cute. As it is only just midday we continue into Soldotna passing many outfitters, river rafting guides, white water rafting guides and fishing guides. This area of the Kenai River is a renowned Salmon fishing area and when the salmon are running is packed with fisherman. In Soldontna we grab a few groceries and then head back to the campground to set up for the night.

21st July

Exit Glacier and Seward

Had a lovely drive towards Seward today, passing some great views of mountains, lakes, lily ponds and cute towns.

Stopping at Exit Glacier just a few miles before Seward. We hiked up to the Glacier Overview for some good pics of the Glacier. We have stopped here several times in the past so it was amazing to see how much it had receded from when we first visited in 2000. Previous times we had been able to walk into the base of the glacier but there is too much outflow for this to be safe now.

We are now set up in Seward for the next couple of days on a waterfront site. Philip is pleased as this is a busy waterway with all manner of fishing boats, ferries and cruise ships sailing right passed our door.