24 to 27 June

Back in Oslo and we have two days to fill in before our flights take us south and home. We all decide that the Hop on Hop Off bus will give us a good look around and deliver us to the places we want to see. We catch the train from our Airport Hotel into the city and start the tour. The first stop for us is Vigeland Park, the worlds largest sculpture park made by a single artist. It features over 200 sculptures created by Gustav Vigeland, depicting the human form in various stages of life. The centre piece is called the “Monolith”. It is carved out of one piece of stone. This park is one of Oslos top tourist attractions. I’m guessing most tourist are as dumbfounded as us when looking at these sculptures.

The next stop was the Kon Tiki Museum and the Fram Museum. The Kon Tiki Museum shows Thor Heyerdahl famous balsa wood raft from the Kon Tiki expedition and the Reed boat Ra-11. Thor Heyerdahl was an adventurer, writer and archeologist who in 1947 sailed the Kon Tiki 8000 kilometres across the Pacific Ocean in the hand built raft, from South America to Polynesia with 5 crew. Then in 1970 sailed the Ra11, a boat built from reeds, from Easter Island. Both these were fascinating stories about a man who believed anything could be done and proceeded to achieve it.

After a quick lunch we continued into the Fram museum, which was even more interesting as we had just completed our cruise in the current day Fram. This museum houses the original Fram ship which can be viewed from the outside and walked through. I’m glad we had a few more amenities and more room than this ship.

The Polar Ship Fram was the first Norwegian specially built ship for Polar Research. It was used for three expeditions. First was with Fridtjof Nansen in1893-96 on a drift over the Arctic Ocean, second with Otto Sverdrup to the arctic archipelago west of Greenland in1898-1902 and thirdly with Roald Amundsen to Antarctica for his South Pole Expedition in 1910-12.

(P:-The “Fram” was an Ice Strengthened ship, being wood it was double planked and the ribs and inner structure were made of unbelievably strong timber beams. The museum’s were very well done and it was great to see the original ships so well preserved).

Mid afternoon we completed the Hop on Hop Off tour and trained back to our hotel. Dinner with the Emmett’s and goodbyes after dinner as they fly out in the morning.

Next day we pack our bags and put into storage for the day and train back into the city. Not sure what we will do but we have all day to do it. Once we arrive at the City station we decide to walk through the city centre and then head towards a food market area Philip has found. It’s a lovely walk as we turn away from the city and into more local areas. Found some great little side streets, steep, windy streets with cute houses and community gardens. Continued on through winding streets until we find the area for the food market. Not much open yet so we continue to the local park area for a sit in the sun and some people watching. Once the market is open we find a coffee shop for some refreshments before checking out the goods on display here. Some great cheeses, aged meats, European style snacks, and some tasty looking sweet treats. We find a stall selling goulash and some pork ribs and decide to have lunch before walking back into the city. It’s delicious and a nice meal to have before heading back to the airport and airport food for the next day.

(P:- Norway has been an excellent country to visit, (mitta said that before) Oslo has been enjoyable and somewhat quirky, I really enjoyed walking into the Suburbs and along the water front. Sunlight must be in demand as every spare beach front, port area and sidewalk seemed to be in premium demand for some sun bathing).

After travelling for 33 hours we finally reach home. We have travelled around the world, had wonderful experiences, enjoyed the company of old friends and made many new memories.

But it’s nice to be home again.

So we are signing off from this trip and thankyou to all of you who read our blog. It makes it worth while when we get your comments.

21-06-24

Todays first stop is at Chermsideoya for a walk along the beach and up the hill. There is “graffiti” here from many years ago. Left by Russian explorers and Nazi explorers who left a swastika marked with stones. The weather here is beautiful again. Water temperature is -1, air temperature is 2 degrees. Polar plunge is open again today and Ian is up for it again. He played walrus on an iceberg very quickly. A few more takers this morning for the swim. This landing site is in a very protected bay with mountains all around. The sun is out and the views spectacular again.

After lunch we go up to deck 7 to enjoy the views again. After enjoying the view for a while we spot some Walrus on some pack ice, just floating along. They just lounge on the ice as we pass by. Also spot another Walrus further away.

We cruise into Sjuoyane where we spend the next couple of hours doing small boat (tender) cruising. This spot is breathtakingly beautiful. Not a ripple on the water, ice floes everywhere, mountains and islands in the background and the sun is shining in a blue sky giving a warm glow to the snow and ice and making the water and ice bergs a tropical blue.

(P:- Starting to loose count how many times we have been overwhelmed by the beautiful scenery! Hard to describe but overwhelming! All I can hope that these memories will be the ones I remember when I get Older and Stupider and I get put in a Retirement Home).

22-06-24

Today we have an early tender trip in Alicehamna to view a 1928 trappers hut and several whalers graves. In the hut was a piece of timber on the wall with a stamp with the name Albert Nobel. Albert Nobel was the founder of the Nobel Peace Prize. A short walk up hill following the line of red ants (fellow passengers in their Hurtigruten jackets), over snow in places, spotting arctic flowers taking every opportunity to bloom and Svalbard’s only tree, the Arctic Willow that grows to a huge height of 7 cm (2 3/4”). Again spectacular weather, 8 degrees, no wind and mind blowing views. Our expedition guide says he has never had an expedition prior to this one where the weather has been beautiful every day. How lucky are we.

Back on the ship for a short trip across the sea to another spot, Ytre Norsoya. We tender ashore again for another walk, this spot is gorgeous with areas of minute purple flowers over the ground, little streams flowing through mossy areas, auks (birds) nesting in among the craggy rocks on the cliffs above us and more great views. After the walk we head back to the ship for an afternoon, packing and relaxing. Word comes through that there is another bear sighting. So we’re out on deck trying to spot it among the rocks. Listening to fellow passengers, the last tender boat had to be evacuated from shore as the polar bear had swum 700 metres across the bay in 2-3 minutes and climbed the hillside towards the passengers and crew. Several flares were set off to frighten the bear as the evacuation was happening. Everyone returning to the ship safely, although some crew had to be picked up further along the beach for their safety. Some great excitement for the last shore excursion of our trip. (P:- And here I was stuck on board and not experiencing a closer encounter of the Worlds King of the food chain).

After dinner we attended the Captains Farewell and applauded all the crew who have looked after us so well for the last week. The Captain has been as amazed at the wonderful weather that we have had, just as we have, and although we didn’t get to circumnavigate the island no one was disappointed. About 15% of cruisers get to see one polar bear a trip, we have seen 5. Belugas, Walrus, seals, and multitudes of birds have entertained us and kept us looking out the windows and from decks with binoculars raised (P:- mental note:- for next adventure to buy Judith her own Binoculars so she doesn’t constantly steal mine)! We have travelled through sea ice and glacial ice, seen too many glaciers to count, had blue skies most days and smooth seas every day. This place is magical, spectacular, breathtaking and something we will remember for a life time.

23-0624

Today we leave the MS Fram and return to Oslo for a couple of days. Bags were packed and left out for crew to collect last night for transfer to airport. This morning we are picked up from the Coal Port for a drive through Longyearbyen and out to Camp Barentz where we get to see some working sled dogs, look at a replica cabin from one of the early explorers and get a pancake with jam and a hot drink while we watch a presentation about polar bears, before returning to the bus and Longyearbyen for some free time before transfers to the airport for the flight back to Oslo.

(P:- Norway was an add on to our original plans, It certainly has left us with beautiful memories. The combination of the Costal Norway cruise and the Svalbard attempted circumnavigation was a great one. Pleased we did both. The advise was “Sleep Quickly” in Norway as there is so much to see and 24 hour daylight. – accurate advise but now I need go home for a rest! Been away from Tasmania almost 3 months, to summarise Japan was Awesome, the USA was Awesome and Norway was Awesome! A truck load of dreams ticked off the bucket list, visits with wonderful friends and way too many photos to sort through. Time to start thinking – Where to Next)?

18th June

This morning we are cruising into Monacrobreen Glacier where we are off on a tender cruise around the front of the Glaciers. There are several glaciers in this bay again. Back in 2016 Monarcobreen and the one next to it were joined together. Global warming has changed this landscape drastically since then. We get to within 300 metres of the face of the glacier and the ice cliffs soar above us. Blue, white and dirty brown along the edges. As we are about to turn back to the ship a loud cracking and big ice cloud appears as a wall gives way and crashes into the sea forming a wave that radiates away from the glacier. Awesome and exciting and then another one on the other side. What an overload of excitement. Tick 3 off bucket list.

(P:-“M V Fram” is an ice strengthened ship designed for Arctic Waters. She is very comfortable, and rides like silk in calm waters and no doubt rocks around like granny’s rocking chair if it was rough! The metallic sounds of Icebergs and the rasping of Ice rubbing on her hull along with fractured Ice along side are an interesting experience).

Back to the ship and off with the multiple layers of clothes, life jacket, coat, warm jacket, thermal top, waterproof trousers, ski pants, thick socks, boots, scarf, beanie and gloves, binoculars around neck and iPhone. Whew, now for a well earned cuppa. So heading up to deck four and Helen alerts us to possible whale sighting. So now it’s no cuppa and deck 5. Oh boy, we are watching half a dozen Beluga Whales (dirty white in colour and about 5 metres long) swim around in front of us. Don’t actually see much of the whales but it’s still exciting. Tick 4 off bucket list.

This afternoons excursion was at Jotunkjeldene. Again there are glaciers everywhere as we approach but this time we are looking at something very unexpected here in the Arctic. A hot spring. Although the water is only 20 degrees it’s hot for this area. Air temperature is just 5 degrees. We have a short climb up to view from the top of the spring and learn about the area which is on a fault line. Across the bay the cliffs are red from the iron oxide in the rock. Belugas swim in the waters around the tenders as we land and later the last group ashore spotted an Arctic Fox.

60% of Svalbard is covered by glaciers, numbering over 2100. Monarcobreen glacier is 255 metres deep and estimated at 6200 cubic metres of ice. If it all melted the sea level would rise 2 cm. It has lost 30% of its volume since 1936.

19th and 20th

Another glorious morning as we glide into Faksevagen and park in front of more glaciers. We are the last group off the ship this morning so we watch as others make the hike up to a lookout point and return. Finally it’s our turn and we head to shore on the tenders ready to use up some of the calories we have been eating over the last week. A steady climb up the rocky slope, spying minute flowers and lichens clinging to life on these barren slopes. Signs of animals, (poop), feathers, a sea urchin dropped by a bird and more amazing views. Back at sea level a walk along the beach gives us views of the sea ice floating in the bay. A wonderful way to fill in the morning. Early afternoon is spent cruising past the Alkhornet Cliffs, a bird breeding area and then on to Torellneset for more Walrus viewing this evening. Temperature is -1 with 25 knot winds and foggy/misty. Many layers are needed to keep warm.

(P:- One of the birds here ( Artic Tern) migrates between the Artic and the Antartica every season! Sounds abnormal to me but I guess it’s brain must be smaller than a Pea so thinking about a tropical destination may just be too hard)!

Later this evening we head down Hinlopenstretet, between Svalbard and Nordaustlandset. There is pack ice so it’s possible that we won’t make it through. We wake just after midnight to see us start through the ice. Then again at 2am when we were surrounded by ice floes. 4.20 am a PA announcement was made that we were travelling through pack ice so we rugged up with multiple layers and headed out on deck. Bbbrrrrrrr. It’s cool but awesome to see the ice surrounding us. Back in the cabin we can hear the ice as it grinds down the side of the boat. It’s quite an eerie feeling with the ice surrounding us as the sea swell lifts and lowers the ice in silence. The ice flows form interesting formations, much of them submerged, some with clear blue pools, some rough and rugged, others smooth. The smooth ones are sea ice formed by ice freezing on the water and then growing down as the ice thickens, the rough, blocky, sculpted ice is broken off from glaciers. We spend all morning creeping along, inching our way forward through the ice. Then around 10.30am the captain makes the decision that after two attempts in different places that we will have to turn around as the ice is too thick for us to pass through.

Disappointing but fairly obvious we would have to turn around. Fascinating to see the pack ice and the movement of it as the swell moves it and the movement of the ship pushes it away.

Highlight of the afternoon, a Polar Bear sighting, 2 kilometres away but we are heading towards it. Layering up with warm clothes we head out on deck and find a spot at the railing scanning with binoculars to find the polar bear, a dirty yellow/white blob on acres and acres of white ice. Finally spotting it as we get closer. Excitement is everywhere, this is our second sighting of polar bears which is unusual and to find a lone male bear on the ice pack is like finding a needle in a haystack. The next hour is spent enjoying this sighting. Maybe our last chance to see this special animal. Feeling very privileged. It takes us most of the afternoon and evening to retrace our route back through the ice to more open seas. Just as we are getting ready for bed Philip spots some walrus’s out our window. They are in the distance but clear through the binoculars. Tops off a great day.

15-06-24 to 23-06-24

Hurtigruten Cruise

Bucket list items for this trip:-

Beluga whales,

Walrus,

Arctic Fox,

Polar Bear,

Calving Glaciers

(P:-Someone forgot the Arctic Fox).

For the next week or so we are on the MS Fram for the above cruise.

(P:- To be more precise it’s an “Expedition” complete with armed guards, Science Lab, Lecture rooms and seminars all about “things” up North).

Day 1 (15th) Flight from Oslo to Longyearbyen on the island of Svalbard. 78 degrees North. The most northern permanent settlement in the world. (P:- “Enter Air” was the equivalent to our budget airline “Jetstar” except it was “Jetstar on Steroids”! If the seats were any cheaper built we would a been sitting on old oil drums with Bale Twine for seat belts)!

A bus trip into town, a guided tour around town (not a big town so not a big tour), then lunch at the Radisson before checking in for our cruise before transfer to the ship by tender.

“Nothing ever stops still in Svalbard – the last stop before the North Pole” quote on a sign in town.

(P:-Now back to the Town Tour! Think Judith was asleep! Longyearbyen is home to the “International Seed Bank” where a very precious reserve seed collection of global seeds is stored in a deep (400m) underground series of warehouses where the seeds are kept frozen to -20 degrees C. I had heard of this and it was most interesting to see the outside of the supposedly nuclear proof complex. The doors are only opened for deposits 3 times a year. Longyearbyen has had a history of Coal Mining. High grade coal exported to Germany and used for the manufacture of high grade steels. There were many mines interconnected by a aerial tramway system to the treatment plant and wharf. Only one mine remains in operation and is due to close soon).

We settle into our cabin then check the boat out, dinner and a welcome from the Captain and Crew round out the day.

(P:- We were advised by the Captain and Expedition director that we would be kept busy and it was important to “Sleep Quickly” to fit everything planned in. Also had a safety drill and shown the survival suits. I think the survival suit may just prolong the agony of -1 degree C water)!

16th

During the night we cruise round to Kongsfjord where at 8.30am we dock at Ny Alesund. Ny Alesund, originally settled as a mining community operating from 1916-1929 and again from 1945-1963. The mine suffered several major accidents, the last in November 1962, led to the closure of the mine. After the closure of the mining operations, Ny Alesund gradually transformed into the modern research community it is today.

(P:- Ny Alesund was the launching point for the Race to get to the North Pole (not far over the “hill”) by Nansen, Paroy, Amundsen and an Italian Guy were the main leaders involved. The tethering tower for the Air ship is still there. There was a shop full of China made polar bear toys and a very good museum also).

The afternoon we spent cruising around Kongsfjord among the icebergs. Amazing glaciers, colourful icebergs and mountain views keep us entertained for the afternoon.

17th

Gravnesodden and Smeerenberg Glaciers

First Stop is Granesodden where we have a 360 degree view of mountains, glacier, small ice bergs and smooth waters. Majestic.

We have a tender landing this morning for a walk across the beach and up the ridge. This area used to be a whale slaughter area. Whales were dragged up onto the beach where their blubber was removed and boiled down to oil. It’s also an old cemetery area where Whalers that died were bought to be buried. It’s also a tern nesting area so we were slightly limited where we could walk. Just before returning to the ship a polar swim was offered. Water was 2 degrees so way to cold for me but Ian swam for Team Tassie. Go Ian!!!!

As we cruised to our next location for the afternoon excursion, we had a halt in proceedings as we watched a Polar Bear mum and her two cubs wander along the waterfront and then find a dead walrus/seal where they feasted for some time. Spent about 3/4 hour watching them. As there are estimated to only be around 300 bears on the island (61000 sq kilometres) we are very lucky to see them. Tick one off bucket list.

(P:- Every time we go ashore the “forward scouts” leave an hour earlier and “secure the landing zone”. The aim of this is to ensure none of us are eaten by the Ultimate Predator the Polar Bear. 8 of our Leaders are equipped with Flare guns and 30-06 Stainless Steel Japanese Rifles and rubber boat full of survival gear ( in case our mother ship sinks). One would think we were “way out West” but no we are “way up North)!

After lunch and afternoon cruising we stop at Smeerenburg where we head ashore again by tender. We spent time here watching a group of Walrus lounge on the shore. Huge lumps of brown lard with tusks. One relaxing in the shallow water, scratching and bathing. Tick 2 off the bucket list.

This place is so amazing. Glaciers everywhere you look, mountains and bays. The weather is turning it on for us. 6 degrees and 2 knot winds (barely a breeze) and flat water with barely a ripple. Hope it stays that way.

12 & 13-06-24

Bergen-Flam-Oslo

Over the next two days we are heading across Norway by train, bus, cruise and train to reach Oslo. (P:-With some scenic walks thrown in). We are just taking hand luggage as we have one night in Flam so the remainder of our luggage will be transferred to Oslo by Porter Services. Departing Bergen at 8.30am after a short brisk walk to the train station we find seats and settle in for the next hour. We are quickly out of the city and into rural areas, climbing through mountain tunnels, past waterfalls and small villages. After changing from Train to bus at Voss we stop to check the view at the Stalheim Hotel where we visit the scenic lookout over the Naeroy Valley. Absolutely stunning views over the valley below. Back on the bus and we drive on to Gudvangen where we board a cruise boat “Future of the Fiords” for the 1 1/2 hour trip down the fjord to Flam. 400 people on the boat, all wanting a seat as it’s rainy outside. Cosy!!. But it’s well worth the trip. The Naeroyfjord is one of the worlds most beautiful boat trips and is one of only two fjords in Norway on the UNESCO world heritage list due to its stunning nature. It’s gorgeous, sheer cliffs either side, multitudes of waterfalls, farms and summer farms literally hanging onto the mountainsides. We turn onto the Aurlandsfjord towards Flam where we disembark and walk up to our hotel for the night.

(P:- The “Future of the Fjords” boat was extremely well designed for accessibility and for viewing – Manufactured from Carbon Fibre. Advertised as the GO GREEN ZERO EMISSIONS cruise boat of the future! How gullible are people? It is all but fraud and is false advertising! This boat has approx 2 hours battery capacity and yet does 4 return trips a day. They don’t have enough shore power or time to charge whilst at port but amazingly it still operates all day? Oh how silly of them they forgot to mention in any publications that there are a couple of semi silent diesel generators installed in the hull working 20 hours a day charging the huge battery packs. Diesel to Electrical generating inefficiency means it costs and uses 25-35% more diesel than if they threw the electric motors away and just ran diesel engines and marine transmissions). Stepping off the boat the diesels are clearly heard (as they were at 10pm and 5.30am when I was wandering around)

The Fretheim Hotel dominates the Flam foreshore along with the usual tourist spots and the Flam Railway Museum.

After settling in we walk up to the lookout point above the hotel. Philip and Ian continue on to the Brekkefossen Waterfall, climbing many steps up to view it. (P:- A very pleasant walk along rural roads and up approx. 650 Sherpa built steps to the water fall view point). Helen and I enjoyed a cuppa at the cafe near our hotel before a walk around the waterfront. Dinner tonight is a Buffet at the hotel.

The Flam Railway

This is an incredible train journey from Flam to Myrdal, on the Bergen Railway. There is no where else in the world on this type of track with a steeper climb. The mountain line had to be laid along steep slopes and around sharp bends to enable the train to snake its way up and down the sheer inclines. Almost 80% of the railway lines have a gradient of 5.5%. The trains takes an hour to cover the 20 kilometres, through 20 tunnels, eighteen of which were excavated by hand. To avoid areas at risk of avalanche the train crosses the river and the bottom of the valley three times. Stunning scenery, ravines, river, waterfalls and mountain farms keep our eyes glued to the windows as we climb our way to Myrdal.

The one stop that this journey makes is at the Kjosfossen Waterfall, with a free fall of 93 metres.

At Myrdal we change trains for the trip to Oslo. Again we pass through some stunning scenery, mountain lakes, snowy peaks, villages and as we near Oslo, agricultural land with crops of brassicas, salads, grains and hay. A short walk from Oslo station and we are at our hotel. Then a wander around the waterfront and onto the roof of the Opera House. Some interesting architecture that has ramps and steps leading to the roof giving good views over the city.

(P:- Omitted from today’s story- Judith’s bag was a “lost in transit” escapee again. We could see by the tracing tag where it was holidaying in a Hotel on the other side of Norway! Philip has visions of more clothes being purchased ready for the next part of the adventure if we can’t get the bag in time)!

14-06-24

With walking shoes on and no real plan we head out to explore Oslo city. Firstly through the city centre towards the Royal Palace where we sit an people watch for a while. Also watching a dozen official cars enter the palace gates. (P:- Dr Google tells me the King was hosting the Norwegian Prime Minister and his cabinet, All arriving individually in seperate Shining Black Limousines ( could a saved a few Tax payer Kroner by car pooling)!

Down through town to the Nobel Peace Museum. A very interesting museum with information about Albert Nobels life and the legacy he left for the Peace Prize. We watched the Peace dove being released at 12 midday, which happens daily. They also had an exhibition about Yoko Ono and other of Women Peace Activists.

(P:- the Moose sausage in fresh crusty roll was delicious for lunch). After lunch we walked around the old Akershus Fortress. Stopped to listen and watch the military band playing for a couple of minutes. The building of this fortress was started in 1299 and completed in 1300. It has withstood a number of sieges through time. King Christian (1588-1648) had the fort and castle modernised and converted to a Renaissance Castle and Royal Residence. After this we walked back to the hotel where we picked up our luggage and walked to the train station to catch the AirPort Express to the Airport. Tomorrow we fly to Svalbard for the last part of our trip.

(P:- Judith’s luggage arrived 2 days late but in time to save me from another shopping spree)!

11-06-24

(P:- Best back up till yesterday 10th it was my birthday and what an enjoyable country to celebrate it in. Not sure this Troll infested country has done anything for my ageing (refer to the selfie below).

After arriving into Bergen yesterday afternoon, we transferred to the Clarion Admiral Hotel in the city centre. Then a walk to orient ourselves. (P:- Priorities I walked out onto the balcony to an up close view of Ferries and boats on Bergen Harbour – a perfect start)! We decided to take the funicular railway up to the lookout as it is a gorgeous afternoon. We walked straight onto it without any wait and started the climb to the top. After photo ops at the top we just sat and enjoyed the lovely view. And did some people watching for the next 3/4 hour, soaking up the sun. Then back down to sea level and more wandering before heading to the hotel where we met up with Helen and Ian for dinner.

Tuesday (11th). We enjoyed a delicious breakfast (P:- Can’t beat a European Breakfast and the Norwegian’s Breakfasts are at the top of the list, delicious and healthy) at the hotel before putting on our walking shoes and heading out to enjoy this city. Once outside we walk up to a church that is overlooking this part of the city. It’s not open to view until midday so we continue wandering the streets. (P:- Close call! Benefits of early touring, already seen 3 or 4 churches this week that’s ample)! Quaint houses, narrow alleys, lovely flower baskets, small parks, a swimming pool and swimming area in the sea and boats of all sizes.

We walk out past the museum and gardens and through back streets until we find the fish market area along the waterfront for some lunch. It all looks fresh and tasty but we finally decide on some Paella for Philip and a Prawn and Salmon roll for me.

After lunch Philip wants to visit a fishing industry museum so we walk out around the base of the Bergenhus Fortress, where I leave him to go his way and I walk back through the fortress and grounds then along the warehouses, now souvenirs and handcraft stores. I stop for an icecream (P:- I missed out on Icecream)! and sit and people watch for a while. There are two cruise ships in today plus there are hundreds of young people here for part of the Bergen Fest. (Been a big concert here this morning). Just near the museum is an old church with cemetery outside. Here the graves are cast iron and sitting partially in the ground. Quite unusual. Across the road and part of the museum is the remains of St Catherine’s Hospital. Norways first hospital for women built around 1250. The building was in use until it was destroyed by fire in 1527. The ruins of the hospital were excavated in 1986 and reopened for viewing in 2003.

Bryggen is the historic harbour district of Bergen. It’s one of North Europes oldest port cities. It was established as a centre for trade by the 12th Century and is now a UNESCO world heritage site. For centuries it was the privilege trading place where dried cod, cod liver oil, hides, furs, butter and tallow from the North were exchanged against flour, grain, salt, beer, hemp and fabrics.

Some of the old warehouses are now being restored using the old techniques. Walking through the tiny narrow alleys with walls leaning in all directions was intriguing. Huge beams, overhanging balconies and steep stairways crowd the alleys and from the front all the buildings lean various ways. The warehouses/tenements structures are based on a 1000 year old tradition. The tenements as they appear today are a medieval origin.

(P:- I walked about 2 klm around to another bay, past some beautiful old warehouses to the Norwegian Fishing Museum which was housed in an old dried Cod storage warehouse. It was an informative and interesting museum which gave me bonus tickets to the Salmon Farming museum. Salmon farming is the 3rd largest Industry in Norway).

Meeting up with Philip we head back to the hotel for a half hour rest before heading out again. This time in a different direction. Towards the railway station and then taking more narrow winding streets, climbing up the hillside. Here houses are stacked together. Walls touching walls, roofs joining, gardens at odd angles. All making a quaint mish mash of houses, stairs, roofs and gardens. It’s a lovely walk and view over the city again. (P:- Bergen is as neat as a pin, a great walking city, especially the crazy hillside “streets and stairs” As quirky as)! Back at the hotel we rest up and then meet Helen and Ian again for a well earned dinner.

08-06-24

Torghatten

We started this morning off with some very nice views as we walked around the deck in the glorious morning sunlight. (P:- One of the “We” about an hour or so earlier than the other part of the “We”). The town of Ornes was just a 10 minute stop but as we cruised along the fjord we were treated to some great reflections and stunning views. This morning the waters are flat with barely a ripple. Again small villages dot the waters edge with Ferry stops at many of them.

Later in the morning we crossed the Arctic Circle with a special ceremony to celebrate and as a memory we got to keep a special inscribed teaspoon only after tasting Cod Liver Oil (disgusting). We all received our spoons.

3pm we docked in Bronnoysund where we boarded a bus to Torghatten for a hike up the mountain. This is a granite dome on the island of Torget. It is known for its hole through the centre. This lovely hike up many stone steps leads us to the hole which looks deceivingly small from a distance but in fact is large enough for our ship to pass through. The 35 metre high tunnel was carved by the sea thousands of years ago or if you listen to the troll stories from the guides, it was created when the troll king threw his hat into the air to deflect an arrow fired at the Maiden of Leka by an enraged horseman who was chasing her. Just as the arrow pierced the hat, the sun rose and all were turned to stone. ( Believe it or not). Dimensions of the hole 167m long, 29-59 m high, 10-28m wide.

A great walk and good views from the top, all finished off with tea and coffee and Lefse (a crepe filled with cinnamon butter. Very tasty. (P:-And extremely sweet)!

Back at the ship we prepare for the Captains Dinner, a five course dinner, 2 starters, a main and 2 desserts. I assumed that the Captains dinner would include seeing the Captain but he was a no show.

( P:- been hearing and learning lot about Trolls! Good Trolls, Bad Trolls – it appears to me to be the afterlife careers of our politicians).

09-06-24

Trondheim

6.30am this morning we arrived in Trondheim for a 3 hour stop. To make the most of this we are up and ready to disembark as soon as the gangway is opened. Our destination is the Nidaros Cathedral. It’s drizzly with a light breeze but this doesn’t stop us. Helen is our navigator as we wander through the streets and along the river to the cathedral. It was definitely worth our walk to see this lovely building. The church is the burial site of King Olaf 11, who became the patron saint of Norway. It was built over a 230 year period from 1070 to 1300. Many additions and renovations have occurred since. In 1708 and 1719 it was destroyed by fire leaving only the stone walls. Major rebuilding and restoration began on 1869 and was officially completed in 2001. Being early morning the church isn’t open but the exterior is amazing. Next door is the Archbishops Palace, where the Archbishop lived in medieval times. This is one of the best preserved in Europe. (P:- Best not forget the Kings Stables a beautiful rustic building complete with hay loft and an old manual lift bridge over the river, both old and well restored/ preserved).

We wander back through the town centre and reboard ready for a hearty breakfast.

Late afternoon we’re off on the Atlantic Road Tour. Departing from Kristiansund we drove through the town centre then over the first of many of todays bridges. Kristiansund is made up of four main islands. An undersea tunnel connects Kristiansund to Averoy. The tunnel is almost 6 kilometres long and the deepest part is 250 metres deep, making it one of the deepest undersea tunnels in the world. Leaving Averoy we drive through lovely countryside dotted with small farms, red painted barns and houses and spot flocks of heritage sheep and lambs. There are three main colours of houses. Ochre, red and white.

In Norway it is tradition to paint your home. Red was the traditional colour as it was cheap, being made from a combination of ochre, cod live oil and animal blood. If you were wealthy you painted the house white, the most expensive colour.

Our first stop was the Kvernes Stavkirke (Stave Church). A Stave church is a medieval wooden church, once common in Norway. The staves refers to the posts used to construct the church and its usually built with no nails. This was built during the 14th century. The walls and ceilings are richly painted with rosemaling, a form of decorative painting. (P:- Bordering on seeing a few too many churches and cathedrals but this old relic is quite impressive, Must a had a lot of kids like me attend at one stage in history as every (typical uncomfortable) pew had a lockable door I assume to keep parishioners locked in through a tedious and boring sermon).

After we leave the church (P:- Judith omitted to say we visit a more modern church next door)! We continue to drive through farm land and quaint towns until we reach our next destination. We stop at Bjartmars Favorittkro Tavern for our dinner, where Klipfish is on offer. Klipfish is cod, salted and dried for 2-3 months on large racks outside in the sun. When you are ready to prepare it, you soak in water for 3-5 days changing the water twice daily, then cook as if fresh. Philip thought it was great. (P:- always great to try the local traditional food). The rest of us decided to pass and enjoyed a chicken meal.

Our next stop is the Atlantic Road. This is an 8.3 kilometres road that runs through an archipelago in Hustadvika and Averoy. (P:- part of a 3 hour road trip through rich farm land, dairy farms, holiday homes dotted with marine and Granite mountain vistas). It is built on several small islands which are connected with causeways, viaducts and bridges, the most prominent being the Storseisudet bridge A great piece of engineering.

(P:-Stepping back a few weeks, when we was on the Amtrack train across North America we dined with a couple from Washington D.C. He was telling us that the granite belt we were seeing in Glacier National Park extended up and through Scandinavia, this ended up being interesting information as we sail and drive down through the granite boulders and Islands of Norway).

From here we return to the ship for our last night aboard.

06-06-24

Breakfast at North Cape

We have an early start this morning disembarking at 5.45am for a bus trip out to North Cape which is on the northern coast of the island of Mageroya. This is the northern most point in Europe that can be accessed by car. The cape is 307 metres above sea level and sits at 71 degrees north. Due to the weather here there are no trees on this island. Fortunately we have a beautiful morning with clear skies and no wind which is quite unusual here. We enjoy a buffet breakfast while enjoying the view before reboarding the bus for the trip south to Hammerfest where we will rejoin the cruise.

The scenery is lovely (P:- Awesome is a betterer word) with mountains, plateaus, creeks, waterfalls and quaint little villages along the sides of the fjords. Reindeer roam the hills here and are right near the roadside giving us great views of them and their cute calves.

The road back to Hammerfest has several tunnels through the mountain and one 200 meters under the sea and the world’s northern most Suspension Bridge.

We reach Hammerfest just on lunch time and just a few minutes before the ship departs, so no time to look around town.

This afternoon was spent enjoying cruising with some lovely mountain views along the way. We are up at midnight for a stop in Tromso. We have an hour ashore and we have the midnight sun so it’s like daylight. Seems strange to be walking around in daylight at this hour of night but it’s good for sightseeing. We wander through the town centre, checking out a few statues, the church and shopping area and then down to the waterfront and back to the ship. (P:- Hard work this tourism thing! Action at any hour seems to be our informal unplanned agenda).

07-06-24

Taste of Vesteralen Tour took us on a tour from Harstad to Shortland in the Vesteralen Islands. A quick tour around Harstad before we ride out to the northernmost, Architecturally impressive, Medieval Church and Viking farm. We experienced a short church service and listen to the pipe organ then look through the museum before moving to the Viking farm where we learn about life in the Viking era. Several examples of weaving looms are on show which are quite interesting. She talked about “the sound of weaving”, this referred to the noise the rocks that were used as weights made as the threads were moved forward and backward.

As we travel further on we pass Potato Island, this is of much interest to Philip. Apparently the soil here is very rich and was suitable for growing potatoes along the waterfront. All the homes are situated along the top of the cultivated area which runs from the homes to the water. Makes it pretty picturesque. Further on we make another stop where on low tide the lake on one side of us runs into the sea and at high tides the sea runs into the lake. The scenery around here is gorgeous again. Later we board a local car ferry crossing to another island where we continue along the Sigerfjord to Shortland where we rejoin the ship. (P:- Was slightly mislead by the title! “Taste of” In Phil’s food mind equals tasty morsels of local food delicacies. But today it meant a very nice country road trip, which it was).

Because we were having such calm weather the Captain decided to make a detour into Digermulen Fjord. A stunning narrow gorge where we did a 360 degree turn as we stood out on deck in the drizzle. Tall waterfalls and sheer rock walls.

Late afternoon we join the Lofoten Islands tour. We are off to see some more beautiful and diverse scenery along the Lofoten Islands, travelling from Svolvaer to Stamsund. This area is renowned for its steep mountains and picturesque fishing villages, sandy beaches, fjords and farming areas. First stop is Henningsvaer, a quaint village with around 500 inhabitants. In the 18th century it was the most important village in Lofoten. Now the village is full of local arts and craft shops and restaurants and the Art gallery we have the choice of visiting. We opt not to and head out along the road and waterfront to the point. It’s good to stretch the legs for a decent walk. The Lofoten Islands consist of 7 islands with fjords and narrow straits between. Due to the Gulf Stream the climate is mild despite it being north of the Arctic Circle. We stop several times to view fjords and beautiful vistas before returning to the ship in Stamsund around 10 pm. Have to say having 24 hours of daylight makes evening touring quite pleasant. (P:- 24/7 tourism Has its advantages, Out of hours Window Shopping is way more economical ! Just saw the quirkiest location for a Football ground in a land starved environment).

02-06-24

Kirkenes

After a hearty breakfast and lunch we left Tony and Judy’s for the trip into Louisville Airport and our flights to Norway. Bit of a milk run with flights from Louisville to Chicago to Rejkavik, Iceland, to Oslo and finally to Kirkenes, far Northern Norway. A very full day of travel and a change of time zones. We arrived into Kirkenes around 8 pm but our bags are still in Iceland. (P:- We know the location of our bags as they have “Apple Tags” on them, they proved very useful for lost baggage location). Oh well hope they turn up tomorrow. Helen and Ian greet us as we arrive at the hotel and once we have our room sorted we head to the dining room for a late dinner before a quick walk outside before turning in for the night.

Our body clocks are haywire after the long flights so our nights rest wasn’t great (P:-Judith concerned her luggage would be lonely in Iceland probably didn’t help her sleeping)! We are up to meet Helen and Ian for breakfast at 6.30am for a 7.30 am departure in our hire car. We have a day to see as much as we can before the rain sets in this afternoon. We head south to the Ovre Pasvik National Park Headquarters. Here we watch a film about the Park, its closeness to Russia and Finland and the beauty it contains. We don’t have time to go there as it’s still 1 1/2 hours drive to the entrance and then requires some walking. Maybe another time. The drive south went through some agricultural land, small villages and along the Pasvik River. The Russian Norwegian border runs through the middle of the river in places along this road with border markers on both sides of the river. (P:- We even managed to see a Border Patrol boat motoring up the river. Not sure if Norwegian or Russian).

Once back in town we stop at the Museum to see the WW11 exhibit. Kirkenes was one of the most bombed cities during the war and only 13 houses remained after the war was over. A very good and interesting exhibit. I preferred the room that was being set up with a quilt exhibition/sale. Spoke to the lady hanging the quilts who was also the designer/maker. Some very lovely quilts.

After driving back to Kirkenes to grab some lunch and book a table for dinner tonight we drive out the road northeast to Grense Jakobselv a small town with a gorgeous church and lovely beach. The church King Oscar 11 Chapel is about 500 metres from the Russian border, was built in 1869, and seats 72 people.

Only one of us was game enough to brave the water and it wasn’t Helen, Philip or I. Besides it was raining and quite cool. Seat heaters worked a trick to warm the body after what Ian said was a “very nice swim”. The road out to this point was quite diverse passing through the outskirts of town and winding over the hills still patchy with snow, past numerous lakes and rivers. The further we went the more ice was on the lakes and as we discovered later it was thick enough that when a fist sized rock was thrown onto it (by the “boys” in our group) the rock just skidded along the top. Along the way we spotted reindeer and a moose. Returning to the Hotel we are hopeful that our luggage may be there but our hopes were dashed when we checked and it was still sitting in Oslo, one step closer than Iceland. After speaking to the Airports staff they think it MAY turn up tomorrow morning, if not it will be the next day. Philip and Ian return our rental car to the drop off point near the Hurtigruten terminal (P:-Hertz instructions were leave the Volvo in the public’s car park unlocked with keys in drivers door pocket they will collect later). and walk back to the hotel, then it’s dinner and an early night.

04-06-24

Starting Journey South

Our first job this morning is to visit the Sports and Outdoor store just up the road to get a few things in case our bags don’t arrive today before we depart. Jackets, socks, thermal are top of the list. Around 11 am we leave the hotel to go to the Hurtigruten Terminal where we board the Richard With for our trip down the coast of Norway. Departure time is 12.30. As we come out of our cabin just as we pull away from the berth our bags appear at reception. Staff says to me “close, it was very close” apparently they arrived just as the gangway was being closed. At least we have them. (P:- And another bag and more “ essential” clothing so we didn’t have to wear the same clothes on the cruise for the next week)! Now to enjoy our voyage.

First up is our safety briefing and then a lovely buffet lunch. Shortly after we stop at Vardo, where we have 50 minutes ashore. It’s a quick walk up to the fortress and along the waterfront before it’s back to the ship and off again. Vardo is the eastern most town in Norway with a population just under 2000 people. The largest industry is fishing and fish processing. Many of the buildings along the waterfront have nesting Kitiwakes on their roofs and windowsills. The smell is awful and it’s very noisy. (P:- I got no smellability and evidently am told I am “Half Deaf” so I just thought it was pleasantly interesting).

Once we leave Vardo we head out into open sea which is lovely and calm and shortly after whales are spotted. Orcas and Humpbacks and they are everywhere you look. Spouts are seen all around us in the distance and many breaking the surface as we pass them. Tails and fins are spotted and make the afternoon pass quickly. Numerous bird species are also spotted.

Dinner in the dining room includes herring, reindeer sausage and steak and raspberry mousse or Russian Honey Cake. All was delicious. After dinner we have another quick stop at Batsfjord. Just 30 minutes, but we are off for a quick walk up to the small boat, dock and back just to stretch the legs. This little village is situated on Batsfjord, an inlet from the Barents Sea. Batsfjord is one of the biggest fishing ports in this area with around 10 000 boats visiting per year. (P:- Hate to be a fish everywhere is a fishing port)!

27-05-24 to 02-06-24

After leaving Paducah we drove straight through to Taylorsville (3.5 hours) to friends Tony and Judy. When we arrived we were excited and pleased to see their daughter Janelle and family were there also. We hadn’t seen any of our friends for seven years so it was great catching up. After a lovely afternoon and evening Janelle and family left for home. Hope it’s not 7 years before we see them again. We have the next 6 days with Tony and Judy so have lots of time to chat and enjoy their company.

Tuesday we visited Berea and the Artisans Village. They had some awesome arts and crafts there including quilts, leatherwork, jewellery, glassware and a variety of jams, pickles and sauces, most Bourbon based as this is a large Bourbon producing area. Another craft store further on had beautiful kitchenware, fibre work, basket weaving and yet more jams, sauces and pre-made dip mixes. Stopping for some lunch on our way home Tony took us to “Buccees”, described as a “famed gas station and convenience store with a fanatic following”. This Buccees has 120 gas pumps and 53000 square feet of space filled with food and gifts and all essentials for travelling. The food department served hot food, salads, rolls, sweets, fudge, cookies, cakes drinks and covered half the space. All food was beautifully pre packed ready to pick up and go. The brisket and rolls were all cooked on site and cut up while we watched. The brisket sandwiches were delicious, some of the best fast food we have had in America. The fudge was very good as well.

Thursday Philip and I drove out to Bernheim Forest where we walked around the lake and looked at the Forest Giants, 3 giant figure sculptures set throughout the arboretum. A gorgeous day and a lovely walk. Bernheim Forest is Kentuckys Official State Arboretum and covers an area of 16000 acres of wildlife sanctuary, a landscaped arboretum and a visitors centre.

Driving around the countryside here is just gorgeous. Large homes on expansive lawns, all beautifully mowed. Looks like they have GPS on their mowers the lines are so straight. Old and new barns, mown hay paddocks ready to be baled and large round bales, lakes and creeks and quaint towns. All makes this area most enjoyable. Very reminiscent of parts of Tasmania.

Friday we all drove to Bardstown, proudly hailed as the Bourbon Capital of the World. It is the official gateway to the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. Bardstown embodies small towns and has earned the tile of “Most Beautiful Small Town in America”. Our tourist brochure reads as follows:-

“Nestled in the heart of the Bluegrass State, Bardstown, Kentucky, exudes an irresistible charm that transcends time. Steeped in rich history and vibrant culture, our picturesque town stands as a testament to the resilience and spirit of its community. Beyond its renowned distilleries, the towns historic streets and well preserved architecture tell stories of a bygone era, while its warm hospitality reflects a modern embrace of tradition.”

Firstly driving through the main town area and then up through Stephen Foster Park (composer of Kentucky State Song “My Old Kentucky Home”) before heading back into town to stop at The Old Talbot Tavern for an early lunch. This tavern was established in 1779 and has hosted the likes of Jesse James, King Louis Phillipe, Abraham Lincoln and Daniel Boone. It’s known as the oldest stagecoach stop in America. Jesse James is believed to have shot bullet holes in a mural upstairs. The Tavern is now one of the oldest buildings in Bardstown. For lunch we experienced a true Kentucky treat, a “Hot Brown” Sandwich. This was originally created at the Brown Hotel in Louisville. It is served open faced with thick slices of roast turkey, crispy bacon, and fresh tomatoes on top of toasted bread, all smothered in a rich cheesy moray sauce. It was delicious and very filling. (P:- Better mention the “Burgoo” a hearty soup full of meat and veggies and also full of deliciousness for this soup Connoisseur ). After lunch we had a wander up the Main Street looking at the beautifully restored shops before we drove out to Lux Row Distillery.

Lux Row Distillery is situated on a 90 acre property on the edge of Bardstown, Kentucky. It is a relatively new distillery, built in 2018. It has production facilities comprising over 18,000 square feet and will have 10 Barrel Rickhouses (warehouses). While the Distillery is new they have been in the Bourbon business for over 60 years. They use a custom 43 foot copper still which produces over 3 million gallons of Bourbon a year. (50,000 barrels of Bourbon a year). Tony had booked for us to do the tour which was extremely interesting, taking us from the grain being delivered, to the fermentation process, barrelling and storage and finally the tasting. (P:- Backtrack a little! The tasting started around the fermentation process of the Mash tanks (yeasty and earthy taste) then after the first distillation process (Harsh tasting 180 proof I think an alternative use would be to Launch Mr Musks rockets into space as I think that’s where my tongue ended for a few minutes! Next was a help yourself with a “pippet” direct from a 5 year aged Barrel, unfiltered c/w small charcoal sediment in the decanted liquid).

Let’s just say that I will NEVER be a Bourbon drinker, (P:-Refer to facial expressions in following photo). but the chocolates served with the tastings were very nice.

(P:- Now for a slightly more detailed and accurate description of the tastings. 4 of their better aged Bourbons were sampled followed by a cleansing chocolate and water. They varied in smoothness and distinct individual flavours from mellow to a distinct charred oak taste of the longest aged Bourbon. Alcohol isn’t part of my diet these days unless it’s a Wine on Christmas Day or a special occasion. Being in the heartland of Kentucky Bourbon with long time friends Tony and Judy was just that “special occasion”. The tour was really well done, industrial and extremely informative). After relaxing in the sun for a short time for Philip to stop breathing Bourbon, as he is driver, we drove on to Heavens Hill Distillery where we watched a movie about their history and the devastating fire in 1996 that destroyed almost 100,000 barrels of Bourbon. Once the fire started it became almost unstoppable, jumping between warehouses, which quickly became an 18” deep river of burning Bourbon. Seven warehouses holding millions of gallons of Whiskey were destroyed as well as the distillery itself. Total value of losses was around $30 million.

(P:- A popular tourist activity is a Distillery tour (crawl) around the many distillery’s in the area, I have no doubt the consequences of multiple Bourbon sampling would create a disastrous tomorrow).

Saturday morning we are off again. This time just a short trip to Carriss’s for breakfast. Tony and Judy have been talking about this place all week so we are keen to go. We will know if it’s open because when it’s closed the old seatless chair will be in front of the door. First impressions are that it’s just a run down grocery and snack bar and once through the front door it’s a very old fashions grocery store with tables along one side. The owner greeted us as we stepped inside and pointed us to a table down the back. We seated ourselves and shortly after he came to our table plonked himself in the chair next to Philip and asked what we would like to eat. No menus here, he just reeled off what was available, fresh cut hash browns, eggs, biscuits and gravy, country ham, bacon, pancakes and toast and any combination of them. Philip tried the biscuits and gravy with hash browns and ham, I had hash browns, eggs and ham. Both delicious. The store was full of quirky things ie:- bottle of motor oil and various bolts and screws next to jars of jam and mayonnaise. Ammunition cartridges in a plastic container just sitting on the open shelf, lots of Coca Cola memorabilia mixed with snow shovels and rulers. Something to look at in every corner.(P:- Good ole country tucker in a good ole country store. I have been to some theme restaurants over the years but this place scoops the pool! Without trying it is the ultimate in themed restaurants).

Back at the house we are having a lazy day before flying tomorrow. Laundry, packing, writing the blog and enjoying the company. Janelle and the girls, Alyssa and Kinsley came for the afternoon so we could spend some time together again before we leave. Such fun to have good friends to share good times and fun memories with. (P:- Dobmac’s rural industry nature has given us many “Salt of the Earth”, genuine friends that Judith and I really appreciate).

Through the afternoon Judy showed us her family quilt where each of the family have made a block. Some great memories in this quilt too.

(P:- Tony, like me enjoys food and cooking. We also enjoy a good joke and laugh. Early in the week Tony mentioned he would make us a meal of “Swamp Soup”. (The look on Judith’s face,at the thought of it was almost like her “Bourbon face”). As the week progressed it was mentioned several times but it didn’t appear so we considered it a Tony Joke. Last evening it appeared, “robust” and very much looking like Tony dredged the Chitlans from the bottom of the local beaver dam! When tasted, the rich Swamp brown colour was overtaken by an outstanding flavour! Full of beans, onion, veggies sausage and shrimp and “Colonel Tony’s 11 herbs and spices”. I have the recipe and can’t wait to serve The Swampy mess to our next dinner guests).

(P:- Beautiful country road drives, rolling hills, American Farm houses and yards, corn fields, Hay fields and beautiful weather all make this place a scenic overload. One yard was even trying to grow old John Deere Tractors! Add to that the time spent with long time friends Tony and Judy. Many, many stories and memories shared (Of course Tony’s and mine were all accurate and free of any BS). A great way to end 3 weeks of visiting great friends and sneaking in a USA road trip down part of the Mighty Mississippi. As always sad to say goodbye to USA but hope to be back soon)!