Thursday 21

Late yesterday afternoon we stopped on the side of the track near a waterhole for the night on Gleeson Station. We had travelled dirt tracks which are gazzetted Station access roads since we left Mt Isa. There were heaps of birds about , budgerigars, eagles, hawks, spinifex pigeons and more. Philip got the drone out for a play and discovered some camels on the other side of the waterhole. They just stood and watched as he manoeuvred the drone around them. Then scanned down the track to watch the sun set behind the trees. We had a station worker stop to talk to us just before dark, wanted to know if “the boss” knew we where there. He radioed to let “the boss” know. The skies here are so fabulous at night. The stars are amazingly clear and the sky is vast. It’s great to wake during the night and just look out the window and see so many stars.

Friday 22nd

This morning we completed the station track as we come out onto the Burke Development road about 30 k south of the Burke and Wills Roadhouse. Back onto paved road. Makes for a much smoother ride although not quite as interesting as the station roads. We stopped at the Roadhouse for a toilet stop and to stretch the legs and check the van before continuing up to Normanton where we refuelled before driving the last 78 kilometres into Karumba. We arrived at Karumba just after 1pm, found our site, set up the van and had some lunch before we finished setting up the awning chairs and table etc. Now for a relaxing afternoon enjoying the 30 degrees C and light breeze. During the afternoon Philip helped the guy behind us back his van into their site. His wife wasn’t much help. We have a lovely site here (site 125) with morning sun and shady through the afternoon. Tonight the park is hosting their regular roast night with Roast Pork on offer tonight, so we have booked in. Happy hour starts at 5.30 and dinner around 7pm with live music. BYO plates and cutlery and drinks. We wandered down around 6 ish and found our seats. Durning the course of the evening we met some great people who were seated around us. Roz and Terry arrived today as well and they have just come through the road we are taking to Cairns so we were able to get some info from them. The chap on the other side of Philip had been on a fishing trip, something Philip had planned to do, but they were out all day and didn’t catch anything. The roast pork meal was lovely and we had heaps of food. Pork, crackle, baked potatoes, baked pumpkin, beans, gravy and bread and butter. There was certainly plenty to go round. The music left a bit to be desired (P- I have heard way better music from the wind howling down a rusty drain pipe!!!) but all in all it was a pleasant evening.

Saturday 23rd. Cleaning day. After a relaxed breakfast we took off for a bike ride before it got too hot then caught up on laundry and tidied the van, mopped the floors and did a few odd jobs. Then a very nice prawn pizza for lunch (P- Home made with fresh Prawns (shrimp) straight off the trawler this morning). A lazy afternoon reading, crosswords and snoozing before we decided to go for a short bike ride again. This time we rode down the track which took us into Karumba town, 3.8 k away. Thinking we would get an ice cream when we reached town we wandered along, checking out the river and talking to people who had been on another unsuccessful fishing trip. Then up to the cafe/supermarket. Bugga it’s closed. No ice cream today just another 3.8 k back to the park. By the time we got back we had done over 10k and were hot and sweaty so it’s time for a swim. That sounds like a good idea until we dip our toes into the pool. It’s cool. One way to do this and that is quick. So down the steps and under the water. It’s not so bad once your wet but could be a degree or two warmer.

Later we had some beautiful prawns for an entree. Then decided to go for a walk around the park before we cooked dinner. The quick walk turned into an hour and a half as we met an old client of ours from Tassie and stopped to talk to him for a while, then talked to some guys cleaning fish and then met Roz and Terry and sat at their camper and talked to them for an hour. By the time we got back neither of us felt like much dinner so made a light fish mornay and toast.

It’s been a good day, looking forward to some more like this.

I am sure that Philip spends his spare time checking out maps to find gravel roads that very few others use. He knows his Hema maps very well and Google Earth gives a good idea how rough the road is.

Today we left Mt. Isa to make our way to Karumba by Saturday. Turning east out of Mt Isa we stay on the main road for about 20 kilometres and then we turn left onto the Lake Julius Road, obviously heading to Lake Julius. One of Mt Isa’s Water storage’s. As we turn onto this road it turns to gravel and we cross our first cattle grid, the first of 12 today. Then we start the creek/river crossings, all dry. It’s 74 kilometres to Lake Julius and we had 54 creek crossings, some small and some quite wide. Lots of ups and downs. We meander our way into Lake Julius, crossing the Leichhardt River, 150 metres wide, and up to the lookout over the dam wall. It’s a funny little lookout with two homes there and the path to the lookout going round the side of the houses and along the front, past their washing line which was tied to the fence to stop it spinning round, and across to the lookout. This dam was opened in 1976 by the Honorable Joe Bjelke-Peterson and dams the tributaries of the East Leichhardt River. It’s a beautiful spot, but unfortunately only a day use area. We stopped for lunch here and enjoyed the quiet and solitude with great views of the lake.

After lunch we continued north on the Lake Julius Kajabbi road to the small township of Kajabbi. In the 1920’s Kajabbi used to be a railhead for the stock drovers to bring their cattle to be railed to the coast. Current population is 6-8 but it was once a thriving town which held an annual race meeting. It was also an important centre for the nearby mines of Mount Cuthbert and Dobbyn, which attracted copper miners to the area. Not much left there now but the remains of the old corrugated iron Kalkadoon Hotel, remnants of the old stock yards at the rail head, a lot of Kangaroos and a few homes.

We continued north crossing the Leichhardt river several more times along with many other creeks, over 100 in all. Mid afternoon we pulled up alongside a waterhole just off the road. Hundreds of birds about, with flocks of bright green budgerigars swooping around the trees and over the road ahead of us.

Today we travelled through West Leichhardt, Glenroy, Gereta, Coolullah and Gleeson Cattle Stations, a great day and apart from 2 or 3 Cattle Station vehicles no traffic at all.

A couple of lazy days to catch up on washing, groceries and soaking up the sun. The weather has finally warmed up and we have got into shorts and we can sit out in the sun without a cold wind blowing.

Today, Wednesday, we drove out to the Mary Kathleen Mine Ruins, part way between Mt. Isa and Cloncurry. Had to pull over 10 k out of town to wait for a wide load. Three pilot vehicles stopping all traffic. We wondered what was coming and weren’t disappointed when a truck with a massive load crested the hill in front of us. Not much room on either side as it came down through the cutting. Not sure what it was but it was big and heavy. (Philip decided that it was the main part of an excavator less tracks and cab.)

Mary Kathleen was an open cut Uranium mine which operated between 1954 and 1984. Durning the first five years of its operation they extracted 4080 tonnes of Uranium Oxide and by the time the Mine was closed in 1982, 31 million tonnes of material was mined, including 7 million tonnes of ore. At the town site just before the Mine, there were shops, banks, sports fields, swimming pool, bowling green and a golf course. In 1982 1200 people called this town home. In 1985, at a cost of $19 million, this town site was Australias first Rehabilitation project of a Uranium mine. All the buildings were carted away just leaving the site empty. Great camping spots amongst the gum trees.

From here we drove on to Clem Walton Park and Lake Corella for lunch. This is another great spot and was where the Mine site drew their water from for their reticulated system. There are lots of vans and campers around the edges of the lake. We sat out and had a tailgate lunch and enjoyed the view, pelicans on the water, fish jumping and sunshine. After lunch we headed back into the Isa for a few groceries and to fuel up ready to head Karumba way tomorrow.

From Boulia to Mt Isa

350 km via the Selwyn Road and Duchess

300 Km of narrow dirt, sand and corrugated gravel roads.

Most of it less than 60 k per hour

Departed 8.30 arrived 4.30

50+ dry river/creek crossings plus dips and small creeks

7 gates to open and close

Numerous cattle grids

3 station vehicles

2 Road graders

3 groups of feeding eagles

3 emus

100’s kangaroos

1 lizard

1 Phosphate Mine

No other tourists on the tracks.

All through the middle of cattle stations.

The results of a husband who woke up this morning and decided to turn right instead of left and follow the dotted lines (gravel road station tracks) rather than the main road. (As opposed to where he told me we were going last evening!) Most were old Stock Routes and are the access roads to the many Cattle Stations. ( Dry weather only these stations are isolated in the wet).

An awesome day and some great scenery.

Now for a couple of days in Mt Isa, a mining and Industrial regional city.

After pulling into Birdsville yesterday afternoon we set up and then took the bikes for a spin around the town. Didn’t take long as it’s not a very big town. Was good to get out and stretch the leg muscles though. We are parked near the Diamantina River, which is now just small pools and the billabong. Must be an awesome sight when it is in flood. There are a few other campers here and some that came in after dark but most are at the caravan park.

Saturday morning we had a lazy start to the day, Philip pottered in the kitchen for a while, while I read my book and relaxed. Once we were up and the cleaning and washing done we drove into town to the visitors centre. This is a great Centre with some very nice displays and a great little movie with many well know people from around the area. Next stop was the Birdsville Bakery. Philip can’t help himself and has to have a pie. (I had one too) Lamb Shank which was very very nice. This is one of Australia’s few licensed Bakeries and serves dinner one night a week. Serving Birdsville Fried Chicken.

Then on the road out to Big Red. The aptly named Big Red Sand Dune which rises up from the Simpson Desert, just 35 kms from Birdsville. Heading west from Birdsville Big Red is one of 1140 dunes that populate the desert and rises 40 metres over the surrounding plains. We arrived to find a group of vehicles trying to scale the dune, some with success but most taking several tries to reach the top. It was great watching as they would get so close to the top and then have to back all the way back down again and try again. Some just had to take the easier routes and admit defeat.

It was quite a hike to get to the top, the sand is very soft and shifted easily but certainly worth the view.

After lunch and some jobs done we took the bikes for a ride out to the Birdsville Billagong, or nearly, the road was pretty soft and made riding difficult so we turned back before we reached the water. Then another ride into and around town. Now I’m sitting on the bed in the van with the sun streaming in the window writing this blog. Ahhhh life is tough.

June 14. Thursday

We woke this morning to clear skies the sun rising over the Flinders Ranges. Our first of quite a few Outback sunrises. We enjoyed a more leisurely breakfast, packed the car and drove out of the park just after 8am. That’s better than 6.30, which it had been the previous few mornings.

Our first side trip of the day was into Historic Beltana Township, 11 kms off the main road. Beltana is a State Heritage listed town still with an active community. Explorers commenced their inland journeys from this small town and Beltana is the home of the Australian Inland Mission, the forerunner of the Royal Flying Doctor Service. There are still some lovely old homes and buildings here and it was well worth the drive in. On the way in we stopped to look at an old Afghan Well which fed water into watering troughs and cattle yards.

Next stop was in Leigh Creek which is now only populated by 150-200 people. Previously when the Coal Mine here was operating its population was up to 550. The school is no longer operational and many of the homes stand empty.

After Leigh Creek we pass through Lyndhurst, the start of the Strezlecki Track, and then another stop at Farina. This was originally a stop on the old Ghan Route. There used to be quite a big Township here in the early 1800, and a restoration program is in place to save the remains. 250 volunteers will help out with this program this season. One of the best draw cards here is the underground Bakery and during the months of May to July while the volunteers are about, the bakery is operational. Bread, pies and some sweet goodies are cooked in the underground ovens and sold to the many tourists that visit the site. Of course we had to make a purchase to help support the restoration project, leaving with a fresh loaf of hi-top bread and a pastie and pizza pie. I think Philip will suffer tomorrow, but it smelt soooooo good. (P- the high top bread was just like we had delivered as kids and tasted the same! I couldn’t resist and fresh cream and homemade pineapple Jam will ensure a stomach upset but I couldn’t resist and it was absolutely delicious!.

It would be great to volunteer to help with this project – I am sure there would be something we could potter and do)

Next stop was Marree, where we stopped for lunch and a look around town. There is a truck at the rail yard that belonged to EG Kruse, Tom Kruse, the Birdsville Mailman and another truck belonging to D E. Scobie, a mailman that followed Tom Kruse. While driving we have been listening to the audiobook about Tom Kruse and the adventures he had as the Birdsville Mailman.

After lunch we began to undertake a trip we haven’t done before and have been looking forward to for quite a while, The Birdsville Track. I think we need to learn some new words though! Some of the local names are real tongue twisters like Mungerannie, Dulkaninna, Killalpaninna, Naterannie and Etadunna, just to list a few.

(P-I downloaded an audio commentary of the history and modern day life on the Birdsville Track. Jackie Stallard, a resident of Birdsville for many years created this informative Audio commentary and has the chapters matched to numbers on a map. We always enjoy learning about the areas we drive through it makes travel much more interesting.)

We stopped for the evening at Cooper Creek Campground, part of the Cooper Creek that floods and fills lake Eyre. Wouldn’t like to be here when there has been rain, it could get quite messy very quickly.

June 15.

Today we continue up the Birdsville Track. It’s continually changing from sand dunes to gibber plains, wide open areas and blue blue skies. First stop today was at Old Mulka Homestead Ruins, just off the road. Philip got the drone out and took some footage while I walked over to have a closer look at the ruins and well, crossing one of Cooper Creek’s channels to get there. Then just up the road a bit more was the Mulka Store ruins and the grave site of Edith Adeline Scobie, the 14 yer old daughter of the Scobies who ran the store for many years. What a desolate, lonely place to be buried.

Next stop was the Mungerannie Hotel. We stopped and wandered around the information boards, looked at the old trucks. (Another one with EG Kruse, Tom Kruse, Birdsville Mailman’s signwriting) and then wandered into the hotel and had a chat with the guy behind the bar. Purchased a stubble holder, to early for a stubby!!! Before hitting the road again.

Mirra Mitta Bore is our next stop. Here the water is pumped from the artesian basin and is 90 degrees Celsius as it starts it run down the creek. Way to hot for a swim. We walked along the creek for a while until the water spills into waterhole. Now the water is cool to the touch. It looks very nice with trees surrounding and overhanging the water. A lovely oasis in the middle of a very dry desert.

After stopping for lunch on the side of the road, we pulled out and followed a road train for several kilometres. As we followed we talked to the driver on the UHF. He was hauling 228 cattle, 6-9 months old and carting them to Mount Garnet in Queensland about 1700 kilometres away. Luckily he stopped not far up the road to check the cattle so we could get past. At the same time another road train was heading in the opposite direction. They cause quite a bit of dust to fly when they pass by.

We reach Birdsville after a most enjoyable trip up the track. So much to see along the way and we have learnt a lot of history about the area. Burke and Wills passed through this area and also explorer Sturt. (P- Another tick off the “bucket” list, must only be about 999 left on my list now! It’s a BIG bucket! It was set up camp ( 5 minutes) on the outskirts of town and out with the bikes for a ride around town. Very much more sedate than my last visit when I flew in with my Pilot friend Peter and went to the iconic Birdsville Races. The race track looks lonely without 4 or 5000 people in this little town (normal population 90. It is all new for Judith as she has never been here).

June 11

Departure Day. It’s wet and cold as we pack the last things into the van and then Philip decides we need to wash the van and vehicle before we leave. Great!! Anyway we get it done and it looks nice and clean to head away. We board the Spirit of Tasmania just after 6pm and have a great spot. Should be about 6th vehicle off tomorrow morning.

June 12

We arrive in Melbourne and disembark just after 6.30, to a very cool morning. Philip has a doctors appointment at 10 am so we have planned to meet Kevin and Isabel for breakfast in Richmond (near where Philips appointment is). We had a lovely breakfast and a good catchup before heading up to the doctors.

Once the doctors was done we headed for the freeway and out of Melbourne, heading North towards Mildura. Leaving the city behind by midday. We had a pretty good straight run heading up through areas we have visited before so not much stopping this time. Our aim is to reach warmer climes as soon as possible so our first couple of days will be long ones. By 5.30 we are ready to stop and found a nice rest area at Lake Tyrell, Victoria’s largest Salt Lake. A nice dinner and an early night ends a good days travel.

NB. The vehicle and van stayed clean for about two hours before being covered in dirty spray from the road. Guess we know we left home with it clean.

June 13 Wednesday

On the road early after a quick breakfast and again driving straight through many interesting towns, all of which we have visited on previous trips. There is not much traffic and the miles tick over quickly. We share the driving and Philip gets to sleep while I drive. We stopped for lunch at Burra, and refuelled and then did a quick drive round some of the Copper Mine area. There has been quite a few paddocks being sown with grain as there has been some rain. Some green tinges are showing through and the hills have a tinge about them, but they need a lot more rain for it to continue.

Later in the day, around Orrorro and Hawker, the green tinges have gone and the ground is barren. The roadsides have a small amount of feed and there are heaps of road kill, Emus and Kangaroos.

Around 5pm we pull into Parachilna and find the camping area before going for a walk around the town before darkness falls. Then for a lazy night we head down to the Parachilna Hotel for dinner. A lovely meal (Goat Curry for Philip). Back to the van and another early night. Two big days but we can now slow down and enjoy the area we have come to see.

(P- A couple of big days only made possible by the fact that Judith is very competent in driving our “rig” and gives me many rest breaks to grab a quick sleep while she drives- Interesting OBSERVATION! Truckies don’t usually wave but when Judith is driving she seems to attract many waves from the Truckies. She also get a lot of looks and comments as this not so tall lady climbs out of the drivers seat!

Tomorrow we are looking forward to visiting Farina – the old Ghan Railway Ghost Town that has the most ruins and a restoration and preservation program ( undertaken by volunteers) to maintain this history for future generations. Rumour has it the original underground Bakery is in operation which will be interesting to see! We will now wander aimlessly North absorbing our Outback History as we do so.)

The Vans all packed and were ready to head north to the mainland. The jobs list is done and we are planning our route north. Time now to enjoy a long weekend at Sisters Beach with Joanne and Tristram and the children before heading home on Monday morning and boarding the Spirit of Tasmania Monday Evening.

We think our track may look something like this. Subject to change at any moment.