Return to Myalup -The Home of the Plane.

Port Hedland, Carnarvon, Geraldton and Myalup

After take off today we passed over the port area of Port Hedland. The infrastructure here is massive and the boats waiting to enter the port are numerous. And not only are the boats waiting here, further down the coast there are more waiting to enter another port at Dampier.

It makes quite a change flying along the coastline rather than over land. The water has as many changes in colour and features as the land. The colour changes, channels are easily discernible, mudflats run far out into the water and reefs and sand islands are dotted everywhere. Before landing today we cross the Gascoyne River which has little water in it now but has caused some major havoc when it floods. The river supports a large area of agriculture along its banks where tomatoes, capsicum, egg plant, strawberries, and more are grown.

(P- the river is dotted with pipe spears that are actually shallow bores (wells) which the farmers pump their irrigation water from the aquifer under the sandy river bed. Whilst it is a seasonal vegetable production area that produces when more southern areas are dormant, it would be one of the untidiest production areas I have seen with weeds and junk machinery laying around everywhere!)

Our last night is spent at Carnarvon. So a look around town and a drive along the river to view the crops, lunch and dinner at the pub and a wander around a town centre where every second shop is empty.

Tuesday 6th

Last day flying today as we head to our first stop (loo break) at Geraldton. Then continue on to Myalup, the home of Pete’s plane. It’s clear flying but the temperature is dropping. Not sure why we are heading south. Again it’s very pretty flying along the coastline. And then as we get closer to Perth the agricultural area starts to bloom. Paddocks of wheat, canola glowing bright yellow and various other crops. Then the urban sprawl begins, new subdivisions built on pure sand, main roads and then the outskirts of the city, the swan river and high rise buildings, Fremantle and then as the sprawl fades away we get back into the countryside and ag areas. Finally we fly over Peters property at Myalup and come in to land on his strip. Peters wife, Rad, daughter-in-law Vanessa and grandson William are our welcoming committee and it’s great to see them. It has been an awesome trip.

9700 kilometres,

44 hours flying

(P- 3 weeks of great food (I check the menus before we decide which towns we visit! No good food NO VISIT), new experiences and good company have made for yet another great sector of our “Aussie Adventures” – how lucky are we!!!)

Saturday 4th Aug

Today started with a FaceTime call with Joanne and Hugh. After some time Philip was talking to Hugh and was showing him some photos off his phone. Philip mentioned that he had a beautiful lady with him in the photo of Peters Plane. Philip moved the camera round to show me, and Hugh said. “Pa—That’s not a beautiful lady pa, that’s just Ma”! (P- we all laughed and I am sure Judith’s ego was a little deflated!)

Windjana and Tunnel Creek Loop.

Leaving Derby early this morning we are heading out to Windjana Gorge to walk before it gets too warm. The first part of the drive is on the Gibb River Road and the first 150 kilometres is now sealed, once we turn on to the Windjana road it’s unsealed and pretty rough. We are out to the gorge soon after 8.30 ready to walk. Right at the beginning of the walk was a bower bird adorning it’s nest with bright white stones. Pretty awesome to see the bird and nest so close to the path. Further on we get some pretty good views up the gorge with the walls towering over us. There is a huge sandbar part way up the gorge which we walk out onto and can spot about 30 freshwater crocs sunning themselves at the edge of the water. We can get pretty close and watch as some catch fish and some just cruise around the waters edge.

From Windjana we continue on to Tunnel Creek, (Philip collapsed and is fast asleep after the walk, not even a corrugated road would keep him awake!) a rock Tunnel/cave about 1 km long. After climbing over some large rocks and squeezing between more rocks we dropped down onto the sand. The tunnel opens out into a large cavern with a creek running through. Several areas of water that we have to wade through the deepest above our knees. Philip and Peter walked right through, I stopped at the deep water and while they were gone watched the 1 metre crocodile swim about. Back out to the car and we continued along the road to the Great Northern Highway and our return to Derby. Along the way we spotted some great Boab Trees. And Philip is asleep again! .

(P- once on the Great Northern Highway we put the UHF radio in the Hilux to Good use. Once when we met a Truckie Peter knew from Bunbury and a few minutes later another couple he knew from Harvey, both from near where Peter lives. Once back in Derby I went for a walk to watch the sunset, I wandered across the local Mud Crab Races, well attended and popular with the tourists – the prize being the actual winning crab freshly cooked onsite for your dinner! I wonder what happens as a prize at the local Horse Races???)

Sunday 5th

Today’s trip takes us from Derby to Shalimar Station where we landed to visit a farm that produces watermelons, corn and beans. Then continuing onto Port Hedland. Some great scenery again today, starting with Shalimar Station part of which is Lush green irrigator pivot circles with sweet corn and green beans and acres of watermelons. Our guide and farm manager, Josh picked us a watermelon, dropped it on the ground to split it open and we picked out some fresh cool and very juicy sweet watermelon. It was delicious, I’ve never tasted any better watermelon. Then we tasted some fresh sweet corn. No need to cook this stuff it’s so tender and very sweet. All this farm is surrounded by nothing. It’s a case of just add water and fertiliser and some preparation and you have good cropping land.

Then it’s on to Port Hedland. This is where Philip takes over the commentary with all the stats he can come up with.

(P- Port Headland— well it could be said I have travelled to one or two industrial towns in my life BUT Port Hedland would be the Heaviest Duty Industrial Town I have come across for its size.

(Population approx 14,000). It is the exporting hub of the massive Pilbara Iron Ore mining area.

It exports over 1.3 million Tonnes of Iron Ore a DAY an excess of 30 x 300m long bulk ore ships, with the ore being transported from several mines by some of the worlds largest Rail trains, Biggest road trains and loaded at one of the largest bulk loading ports! Fortunately we hired a car and spent the afternoon wandering around roads and streets that may or may not have have been meant for public access. This place is so full of Big trains, planes, helicopters, ships, loaders, dozers and trucks, it is basically a town of “Big Boys Toys” that deserves a longer visit another time!)

Katherine to Kununurra

Our flight today took us out of Katherine and up over the Victoria River towards Bullo River Station, (Sara Henderson fame) (P- A beautiful Station homestead that we have previously visited and dined at) then north to Lejune Station before heading to Kununurra. We left Katherine about 8 am and arrived in Kununurra about the same time after a 90 minute flight, due to the time changes. After picking up our car we headed into town for a drink and a wander. Peter met up with Bevan, a guy he knows who offered to take us on a tour round stage 2 of the Ord River Scheme. We checked into our accommodation, a beautiful apartment at the Freshwater, before meeting Bevan and his wife for lunch and then heading off. (P- stage 2 of the Ord irrigation scheme consists of 10,000ha of land that the government has established an infrastructure of irrigation channels, dams, roads and electrical supply. When completed the land was put out to tender, some existing local, successful farming families tendered for some land, a predominantly Aussie consortium bid for it and the Chinese— Yes the Chinese were the successful bidders @ a total of $5.00 yes $5.00 a year rent with a 75 year lease – sure there is millions to be spent laser levelling and internal farm infrastructure but surely some of it should have been retained by or for Aussies.. well done to our politicians!!)

Back at our unit after the tour we relaxed for a while before going to the Pumphouse restaurant (a restaurant in the original irrigation pumphouse complete with pumps etc still in place) for dinner.

Peters daughter and son-in-law and granddaughters were staying in the caravan park across the road so we organised for them all to come over for breakfast before we each headed our different ways.

(P- I was very fortunate that by time we returned from our tour of the irrigation area the Argyle Diamond Store was CLOSED – so I guess Judith has missed out -AGAIN! Maybe just maybe some other time!!)

Home Valley Station

Today is just a short flight about 20 minutes, it took us and hour and a half as we side tracked to the north to fly over Berkeley River Lodge at the head of the Berkeley River. We decided not to land there for lunch as there was a $350 landing fee and a $50 per person fee to drive us from the landing strip to the lodge, less than a kilometre for lunch. Just a bit excessive.

(P-Judith omitted to mention the $2500.00 per night accomodation charge, plus dinner, flights, breakfast, fishing guides and whatever else you may require! Little wonder we just flew by!)

We landed at Home Valley Station and were picked up from the airstrip by Alfie, a very exuberant indigenous young man who had a love for this country and gave us a running commentary as we drove to the homestead. We have a lovely Cabin here overlooking the river and they have two pools which we made use of during the afternoon. Dinner was in the open air dining area and was very nice.

(P- some of the film “Australia” was filmed at Home Valley and the pastoral lease was once owned by the Durack family famous for their pioneering of the Kimberley Cattle Industry. It was awesome to see and experience an indigenous managed and operated enterprise where they take such pride in their properties and business. A huge contrast from many of the other communities we have visited that are littered with rubbish, trashed housing and unkept people. )

Ellenbrae Station to Derby

This morning Philip and I were up early to walk to the Cockburn Range Lookout to watch the sunrise. It’s a lovely morning, clear and warm and the sunrise was gorgeous. Back to the room and then over for breakfast before organising our ride back to the airstrip for the short hop over to Ellenbrae Station for morning tea. Ellenbrae is well know for its Scones and jam and cream and we couldn’t pass up this opportunity. Logan, the manager of the property picked us up from the airstrip and delivered us to the homestead where we enjoyed our drinks and scones. After a quick run back to the airstrip we took off for Drysdale Station. Logan had rung them to see if we could land, but on our way we decided to continue on to Derby without stopping. As we flew over we had no phone range at all. By the time we reached Derby, Search and Rescue had been contacted because we hadn’t landed at Drysdale and they had rung Logan to see if we had left and they hadn’t heard us fly over so they were concerned for our safety. We were totally oblivious to this until we landed and Peter had several missed calls and Rad had been contacted. It took a few minutes to sort out but all was well.

(P- the Scones, Jam and Cream May well be the most expensive morning tea we have ever had if you took into account fuel, plane running costs and of course the $24.00 for the actual morning tea)

Tonight we are in a motel catering for the mining industry, a slight downgrade from Home Valley and lacking the special charm of Cape York). We have a “mine ready” Toyota Hilux rental vehicle so Philip and Peter decided we should backtrack and drive some of the “Gibb River Road “ in it whilst we have it. There is always an adventure around every new dawn!!!!

Transport to the Northern Peninsula Airport this morning at 8am. We packed the plane and took off for a fly over “the Tip” before heading south. It’s so different seeing these places from the air. Gives a totally different perspective. After doing a circuit of the Cape we turned and followed the coast past Loyalty Beach and Seisia and then turned our nose towards Karumba.

Seeing this area from the air I am amazed by the huge river systems, mud flats and sandbars. As we near Weipa the Bauxite mining leases come into view and they cover a huge area. There are several barges in the river and boats out to sea. South of Weipa there are huge mud flats with streams that form intricate patterns in the mud as they drain out.

We land at Karumba and walk to our accommodation, store our bags and head to the pub for lunch, then back via the shop to buy some prawns for afternoon snacks. Then back to the park for a swim and a snooze before dinner.

We walked along the beach towards the hotel as the sun starts to set. By the time we have drinks the sun is low in the sky and turning pink. It’s another awesome sunset and dinner was pretty good as well. It’s so nice to be able to sit outside until after dark in just shorts and t shirts and still be warm. We wander back to the cabin and have an early night.

(P- at the Pub we catch up and yarn to people we have met previously on our Wanderings. Always great to swap stories! We get some looks of disbelief when we say we travelled from Cape York to Karumba in a day!)

Monday 30th

Today’s flight is from Karumba to Katherine, via Mataranka Resort for lunch. After a leisurely walk to the plane we stow our gear and it’s my turn for a front seat ride first up.

( P -Evidently I am delegated to the back seat as I criticised the Flight Attendant catering service yesterday! Anyone would think Judith had Peter and I on a diet!!!!)

It’s a different view from here, (actually facing forward). Again the shore line is impressive. Mud flats are massive with great patterns made by the creeks and waterways. Our first stop is Burketown to refuel just a 40 minute flight. After refuelling and a toilet break we are back in the air for the 2 hour hop over to Mataranka Resort, flying over McCarthur Mine Site (zinc) and the Lost Cities at Limmen NP.

Very impressive and a spot to put on our Bucket list to visit. The airstrip at Mataranka is right alongside the cabins and caravan park. Pity the poor campers who had washing out because now it is covered in red dust from our landing and takeoff. We had a great early lunch here before our last short hop to Katherine’s Tindal Airbase.

(P- During our approach to Tindal which is also a RAAF base we were preceded and followed by Airforce planes that were Taking part in an international joint excessive “Pitch Black”. We are dwarfed in both size and speed by the Military aircraft.)

We are supposed to pick up a hire car here but Thrifty were too lazy to bring the car to the airport so we had to cadge a ride from a government employee in a government van back into town to pick up the car. (P- he wasn’t supposed to take unauthorised passengers so it was very kind of him! I call it recouping some of the many Tax Dollars we have paid so didnt feel guilty). Then out to our Accommodation for a rest and swim before dinner.

Tuesday 31st. Today I cruised up the Katherine Gorge, while Philip and Peter had a lazy morning. They have both done the cruise before. They dropped me out at the Gorge ready for the Three Gorge, 9am cruise. I quite enjoyed the trip although it’s not the most spectacular Gorge I’ve seen. The colours in the rocks and the formation of the gorges was interesting. There was a short walk between each Gorge and a change of boat then back for a stop at the second Gorge for a swim and some lunch before returning to the visitors centre. Peter and Philip were actually on time to pick me up and after a stop In town for a drink we drove out to the Katherine Hot Springs for a swim. The water was nice and warm and crystal clear. It’s was lovely floating down the stream under the palm trees. Back to our rooms after another good day.

(P- well the day hasn’t ended yet and will get even better after I have a Rib Eye Steak and Prawns for dinner at the Golf Club, then it will have been a GREAT Day!!!!!)

Friday 27 July

We packed up early this morning and picked Peter up and headed up to Mareeba to return the hire car and head to the airport. Our mode of transport for the next ten days will be Peter’s Beechcraft Bonanza single engine plane. I am joining Peter and Philip as they return to WA via a very disjointed route. Today’s destination is Northern Peninsula Airport, (Bamaga), Cape York area and our accommodation is at Loyalty Beach Lodge. Departing Mareeba we fly northwest away from the coast and the clouds reaching about 4500 feet. Pretty smooth flying with great views out over Mareeba and surrounds. As we fly north we fly along the eastern side of the Great Dividing Range passing Mt. Carbine, Lakeland, Old Laura and Battle Camp Road (which we drove three weeks ago) and round the shoreline of Princess Charlotte Bay. Then further north we followed the Peninsula Development road and did the Old Telegraph Track, checked out the Jardine River Crossing and onto Bamaga to land.

An awesome flight. 2 hours 45 minutes. After refuelling we tied the plane down and were collected from the airport by Graeme who drove us out to our accommodation at Loyalty Beach. We pulled up in front of a two storey, very basic building and were told this is our lodge. Not sure what I expected, but it wasn’t this. Four bedrooms each with two beds, a kitchen and a large deck with table and chairs. No doors, no windows, basic lighting, fans in each room, almost no internal walls and a bathroom and shower downstairs with no door and walls up to my shoulder! It’s really awesome and part of the experience. Our view is straight out over the sea and the islands where we can watch the boats and people on the beach. Rustic is a word I would use to describe this place.

After a few nibbles to stave off the hunger pangs (we missed lunch) we decided to walk along the beach to Seisia where we watched the ferry from Horn Island berth before walking around the road back to the campground. About a 7 k round trip.

Dinner was at the restaurant on the beach front and we all had great steaks, eventually. Our booking was for 7pm and Philip went to order our meals but it was only 6.56 and he was told he would have to wait until 7. By the time he got back to order there we 20 people in front of him. Some meals were sold out and we weren’t served until 8.15. Not that it really mattered, we enjoyed a drink watching the evening darken and listening to the sounds of the other guests. After dinner, back to our rooms and showers. White lipped green tree frogs shared the bathroom with us. Two in the vanity one in the washing machine. They are beautiful green, hand sized frogs.

The bathroom, shower one side, toilet the other with a fly wire door in between. Water from the shower and basin run straight outside onto the ground.

We all slept really well and Philip woke us about 5.30 to get up and watch the blood moon and eclipse (if you think HIS photo is awesome don’t believe it as I am sure he borrowed it off the internet! (But that is what it looked like awesome!). The Milky Way was very clear and we also saw satellites, jets and falling stars. Awesome.

Saturday 28

This morning we are off on a tour to the Tip. Cape York here we come. Graeme is our driver and we head first to the airport to pick up 11 others that have flown in on an Air Adventure tour. Two of whom are in their 90’s. Our first stop is at the old Pajinka Resort. Now only ruins. This was originally built and owned by Reg Ansett and was a 5 star exclusive resort before being handed back to the local indigenous people. It was then destroyed by fire and now only the reception area and the pool remain in a state of disrepair. From here it’s just a short hop to the Beach, morning tea and a climb up over the headland and down to the northern most tip of Australia. Another tick off the bucket list. We walked back round the headland and then through the shallows back to the bus and enjoyed some time relaxing before boarding the bus and heading to Somerset.

This area was founded in 1863 and was to be a town to service the islands but was abandoned when the services moved to Thursday Island. Captain Jardines home was built at the top of the cliff overlooking the harbour. In the tropical climate here remains of the homes deteriorated quickly and now there is nothing left but the graves of two aboriginals and some aboriginal bones that were returned to the site 132 years after they had been sent to England.

The last couple of stops were the Croc Tent, full of tourist stuff for sale and then the DC3 plane crash site just before the airport. After dropping the air tour people back at the airport we made another stop at a WW11 Bomber crash site and then stopped back at the DC3 site to get some photos before heading back to Loyalty Beach. 7 hours of touring, now for a rest before dinner.

Thursday 26 July

After two weeks at home looking after Lilly, Claire and Hugh for the school holidays we have returned to Cairns and some warmer weather, both returning by different routes. Philip had a shorter time at home and then flew to Western Australia and down to Peter and Rad’s in Binningup for an overnight stop before boarding Peters plane for the trip across Aus via Kalgoorlie, Warburton, Alice Springs, Lark Quarry, Winton, Chillagoe and Mareeba, where they parked the plane and then drove down to Cairns. Taking a week to make the crossing. I flew from Launceston via Sydney to Cairns on Tuesday and met Philip and Peter, Mark and Amanda and the girls. We have a couple of days here together before we take off and Mark and Amanda head home.

Yesterday, (Wednesday), Philip and I looked after Emily and Kaley for the day while Peter, Mark and Amanda flew to Karumba for lunch, just a short trip (1500 Km for a seafood lunch). We took the girls down to the Esplanade and Muddies playground where they played at the waterpark and playground for a while and then we had lunch before heading back for Kaley and Pa (Philip) to have a sleep. After their sleep we went back to our Caravan Park for a swim and to change before going out to dinner.

Today Peter. Philip and I have been on the Kuranda Skyway. Great views and a lovely clear day for the ride. Not much water at Barron Falls though.

The photos following are just a few from the “Across Australia Flying (and eating) adventure.

We have had a great few days in Cairns with Mark and Amanda, Emily and Kaley. The girls have kept us busy at the swimming pool, the jumping pillow and the splash park. Amanda, Emily and I found time to all have a pedicure and all have lovely painted toenails. Em sits up and takes it like a pro now that she has had a couple. All of us apart from Philip spent an afternoon at the Aquarium checking out the wide variety of fish, snakes and lizards on show. While Mark and family went to the crocodile park, Philip and I caught up with some friends from WA who were also visiting Cairns. And we all ate seafood, lots and lots of seafood. Prawns, Coral Trout, Prawns, Barramundi, Prawns, Whiting and Prawns.

Now we are flying home for two weeks to look after Lily, Claire and Hugh (P- plus 2 or 3 Canines, cattle and sheep while their owners are either working or on vacation) for the school holidays before flying back to Cairns to continue our Caravaning.

(P- not sure if Judith mentioned the SEAFOOD! It is worth a second mention — and a third! I didn’t get to see much of Cairns and surrounds the last few days between a little Vehicle routine maintenance, a Siesta each afternoon and a little time teaching Emily and Kaley some tricks, tell them a few stories and spoil them with (sugar filled) sweets (just before they go back to Mummy and Daddy) it seemed to fill in my time. We will spend a few days sightseeing around the area on our return. Not sure about the 17-20 degree temperature drop we will experience as we go back to Tassie!)

Our track so far. 4500 k and 2800 k on gravel/dirt/station roads.

We have had a lovely few days at Elim Beach. Water front site, light breeze, very few neighbours, great walks on the beach and a fire each night to cook dinner. What a way to relax. Did I mention that we had some rain. Was glad that we had a caravan and not the roof top tents or camper trailers that others had, because we had a few heavy downpours. We had a couple of families camped either side of us who had just been to Cape York. Philip talked to our first neighbour, who is a regular at this site and told him to grab his crab pots from his boat and try to catch some crab. Philip didn’t need to be told twice, so he found the pots and raided the freezer for some bait and set the pots just off shore near the mangroves and waited till morning. Well “blow me down” he managed to catch 4 crabs, all undersize so he had to throw them back, but at least he caught some. More than others were doing. (P- that’s because I waded out in knee deep slimey black Mud to select what I thought was the correct location! All the other crabbers wanted the crabs to walk to their pots all but on the beach- didn’t matter they were undersize it was a fun exercise regardless).

The highlight of our stay at Elim was our walk along the beach to the coloured sands. The guys that run the campsite told us it was pretty impressive and kept asking if we had been yet, so we thought we best make the effort. It’s about a 3 k walk. We chose to walk the first part along the road (easier than the sand for Philip) and then the last kilometre along the beach. As we came off the track onto the beach there is a vehicle on its roof and quite rusted, no doubt serves as a warning for those that try to take their vehicles along the sand. It is quite a pleasant walk along to the coloured sand cliffs and very impressive once we get to the main area. You can take a Track off the beach right up into the gorge where the coloured sands tower over you. The sand colour varies from white to gold to deep red. Unfortunately it teemed while we were there so the drone photos weren’t the best. It would be wonderful on a sunny day.

While we were camped at Elim and it was raining Philip decided to wash the van. Why does he do it when it’s raining and we still have dirt roads to travel.? It looked clean for about 36 hours. Then we drove from Elim towards Cooktown. They have been doing roadworks. Gravel roads, red dirt/clay/sand equals a very dirty car and caravan again. Oh well it gave him something to do for a while.

This morning while I was still in bed, Philip tried to put the front window shade down, (we have been having a bit of trouble with it for a while), it wouldn’t go at all and he decided to fix it. Well within about 15 minutes he had the whole frame and screens and everything out and apart, oiled cleaned spring tightened and ready to fit back in again. Now it works great, thank goodness.

We are now in Cairns at the Cairns Coconut Caravan Resort for a few nights. Looking forward to Mark and Amanda, Emily and Kaley arriving tomorrow.

Today we departed Karumba and headed up the Burke Developmental Road to Dunbar Station then took a Station service road through to the Peninsular Developmental Road near Mulgrave Station. 450 k, most of it at 50-60 k per hour, all sand, dirt and gravel, creek washouts and at times the road was little more than 2 wheel tracks in the sand with “grass” attempting to grow in between. The highlight of the day was the crossing of the Mitchell River. Water flowing over the road for 100m (300 feet) the deepest spot being just over 2 feet deep. Steep sand banks on the eastern side of the river. This river must be a raging torrent in the wet season. It’s wide and deep with sand banks and trees, thankfully today it was a fairly sedate crossing. (P- would a been a good swimming hole but we didn’t feel like sharing it with crocodiles! Judith was a little quiet from when she spotted the crossing until we reached the other side! It is always a little nerve racking when travelling alone.)

The whole day has been a changing landscape, from plains of grasses and sparse trees to waterholes surrounded by 100s of cattle, waterholes covered with Lily’s and surrounded by dozens of water birds and river/creek crossings. The Gilbert River, the Mitchell River, the Alice River being the major ones with many small creeks and watercourses.

(P- Whilst I launched the drone at the Mitchell River Crossing a couple of 4WDs with camper trailers went thru. We later went past them, stopping to say hi and received nothing more than a grump response back. In our usual fashion, we wander along stopping to look and photograph as we travel, never a fast process but interesting. We alway have our UHF radio on scan so we can listen for traffic and what’s happening in the local area (mustering, oncoming traffic etc.). The snobby voice from one of the “Grumps” we past at lunch complained by radio to their mates in the second vehicle “ I am sorry I have had to slow down as the Tasmanian’s in front needed to get a “wiggle on”. Judith was driving and without doubt travelling as fast as I would have done in the conditions. If they had asked nicely we would have pulled over but they kept whining and somewhat out of character, my Wife became quite determined they would follow in our dust for their unfriendly comments! Little did they know our scanner was picking up their transmissions!)

Tonight we are camped just off the track on Dixie Station listening to a symphony of native birds as the sun goes over the “hill” after another great day!

During the afternoon we saw cattle being mustered and pulled over to watch.

Friday 29 June

After going to bed with the sound of bird song we also woke this morning to a chorus of bird song. Just lovely to hear so many different birds. nice if we knew what they all were. Our aim today is to get to Elim Beach about 50 k north of Cooktown. We have only about 20 k to go before we hit the Peninsula Development Road (that heads north to Cape York), we turn south and travel down to the Hann River Roadhouse to fuel up. As Philip gets out of the car he asks me if he looks ok and is his hair tidy (mmm what’s he up to). He’s just spotted the girl serving fuel at the bowser and comments that this doesn’t happen too often and it’s worth paying a bit extra for fuel if he is going to get driveway service from a nice blonde!

(P- she was from Hamburg, Germany and here on a working tourist visa ) Just to note, fuel is only 5 cents a litre dearer here than at home.

After refuelling we continue south to Laura and then turn off into Old Laura, where we stop and have a wander around the old homestead and outbuildings. This homestead was originally established to provide beef to the Palmer River gold miners. It was established in 1879 even though the gold rush began to decline in 1880, the fledgling cattle industry was starting to hit its stride and by 1894 the Laura homestead was running 8000 head of cattle. Homesteaders became self sufficient, growing their own crops, blacksmith shop and beef processing to free the workers. By 1960 the old homestead was deteriorating and after some renovations it stands today as a tribute to the hardy pioneers of the Cape York Peninsula.

From Old Laura we follow the Battlecamp Road through to Hopevale and on to Elim Beach. The scenery has big changes today from the flat cattle country that we have been in to hills, winding roads, steep sections, many water crossings and views across the tropical rainforest hills. A total contrast to the western side of the gulf.

As we head down into Elim Beach we are passing white sand dunes, palm trees and swamp areas. We wind our way down a narrow track and find Eddies beach camp. A space that opens to a flat area, some beach front some grassed areas and beautiful trees. We find a spot right on the waterfront and set up camp. Nibbles and a drink as the sun sets and conversations with other campers. What a way to end the day.

(P- A guy spots the matched wheels on our truck and van, (those who have read previous posts may remember how unimpressed Judith was when I put new shiney alloy wheels all round. “No one will ever notice them she almost grumped!” -At almost every camp someone comments!) Well the guy tonight happened to be an old business associate and friend from Ulverstone. He walked around the corner to comment on our rig and was as surprised as us when we met… another late dinner tonight after a long “catch up”- Did I mention I like my rig and wheels!!)

After 6 wonderful days here at Karumba, we have packed up ready for an early start tomorrow morning. We have loved our stay here with wonderful sunrises and amazing sunsets. We have relaxed, ridden our bikes for kilometres, talked to many other caravaners, eaten lots of prawns and fish and enjoyed the wonderfully warm days. Now for the trek up to the Mitchell River, Dunbar Station, Mulgrave and on across the bottom of the gulf to Cooktown and down to Cairns.

Today we met some people who also have an SLR caravan and have spent several hours talking to them. Not many people have these Custom Manufactured Vans so it’s great to talk to someone who does. Their van is newer than ours and has a lovely front bed layout, but I still like mine just as much.

Now looking forward to moving on.

(P-Did Judith mention the fresh caught fish, Prawns (Shrimp), Mud Crabs, More Prawns, More Fresh Barramundi and Queen Fish, Oh Did I mention the Delicious Fresh off the Trawler Prawns every Day, ( breakfast, lunch and Pre Dinner appetiser, not counting the ones I sneaked outta the fridge when J wasn’t looking! Shhhh our secret 👌 Oh and quietly wait for the report on the Mitchell River Crossing from J (that’s if she survives it 😉 .)