25-29th August
Travelling from Karumba to Townsville over 4 days, free camping along the way. Passing through some varying landscapes and interesting spots. Towns that are dying and towns that are thriving. Spotting cattle and kangaroos, emu with chicks, goannas and snakes. History of goldfields, old and new, natures wonders and flood damaged roads and fencing. All these make for an interesting drive. Following are some highlights from along the way.
Copperfield Gorge and Einasleigh township (dying). The Savanahlander train no longer reaches here due to damage done to the bridge during the last floods. Copperfield Gorge was created when the Copperfield River eroded a channel through a sheet of Basalt laid down by an ancient lava flow. The old Einasleigh pub first established in the late 1800 no longer serves meals, but still stands as a sentinel to this lovely gorge.
Cumberland Chimney. This was an overnight stop for us along with several other vans. We had no sooner set up and sat down to relax than Philip spotted some movement a short distance from us. Out with the cameras to follow a huge goanna as it ambled across the road and into scrubland. What a treat to see. (P:- the. Lizard was easy 120cm (4’) long and most probably 5’ – He would give you a fright if he ran up your leg!)
Only the chimney from the Cumberland Battery and the man-made lagoon remain from this once thriving mining town. Cumberland was born when gold was discovered in 1872. It grew to be one of the major gold producers in the Etheridge goldfields. The Cumberland Company dammed the nearby creek to create a permanent water supply for the emerging town. The mine closed in 1897 and the population numbers declined. Campers and birdwatchers now enjoy this lovely setting.
(P:- the author omitted to mention we drove from Einasleigh to the “Lynd” via the Gregory Development and Kennedy Development Roads, these development roads originally put in to allow road transport to replace cattle drovers. They are still narrow gravel or one lane bitumen, many low level river crossings and cattle grids, with unfenced boundaries and wandering cattle. At one river crossing we met a young German Tourist travelling alone in some well used van. She was afraid to cross the river (probably only 8-12” deep and 60’ long (20-30cm deep and 20m long). A bit of coaching and encouragement she accomplished her first Aussie River crossings. That evening we camped in Blackbraes National Park, a very isolated area with the silence occasionally broken by the rumble of a 3 Trailer livestock road train rolling past. Our new German “friend” camped with us that evening ( safety in numbers I think) She was off across the country to start a job at Ayres Rock Resort. As we headed south the next day there were many roughly rebuilt road sections that were completely washed out in the floods earlier in the year.)
Porcupine Gorge is a dramatic colourful sandstone chasm just north of Hughenden. Carved by Porcupine Creek, the gorge features vibrant sedimentary rock layers and permanent waterholes.
Charters Towers was an interesting town and we could spend a lot more time here. It has a huge mining history and a beautiful Main Street area with some quite opulent old buildings. The Stock Exchange Arcade opened in 1889 as the Royal Arcade. Once a beautiful gas lit arcade it fell into disrepair but was restored in the 1970’s using the original plans.
The Daking-Smith Building was built by Alfred Daking Smith using local red clay bricks. The store employed over 140 staff and offered a wide range of goods. In 1934, former employee Stan Pollard took over, adding a mezzanine and installing a unique “flying fox” cash system. Pollards remained a local favourite until Stan’s death in 1987.
4 massive mosaic walls depict different eras in the towns history. These are depictions from Peter Lawsons artworks. Each painting has been transformed in to a large scale mosaic consisting of more than 700,000 meticulously hand placed tiles. (Each tile about 12mm square)
Ravenswood was another surprise for us. Philip had read that it was an old mining town being re mined. We had some spare time so off we went to check it out. Turned out to be a very interesting couple of hours wandering around the old town. Gold was discovered here in 1868 through to the 1900s. The township flourished and grew to 5000 residents and boasted 48 hotels. Several of the historical buildings still remain. Due to an industrial strike in 1912 and World War 1, the mining and the town became deserted
(P:- The impulse decision to take the road to Ravenswood was a winner – need to come back to this area one day, most interesting and much more to explore. We do enjoy non planned travel destinations, like today they can be a real surprise)!
As we come to the end of our “Outback” travels it’s time to reflect on why we love it so much.
For me it’s the ever changing colour, reds and golds and greens and the magnificent blue sky, (the millions of stars that light up the night sky and the amazing sunsets and sun rises that turn the skies to glowing pinks, reds and oranges. It’s the history that you find around every corner and nature at its best. Why wouldn’t you love this great country.
(P:-Tomorrow its to the coast and the next month will be slowly heading south to home. As the Author mentioned we love the outback, as well as what was mentioned above, I enjoy the outback camps (camp as in pull up on side of road or river towards days end) with almost no one else around, no need to close the blinds of the van windows – leaving them open gives us some beautiful sunrises, a great start to the day, the friendly people, no one is in a rush, we stop to take a photo and before we know it a (local ) vehicle stops to see if we are ok, fishermen giving us fresh caught fish, having a chat with a local (always a story to remember), every body just seems to have time to care and talk. Oh and the rumble and roar (to me the sound is like a symphony orchestra is to others) of the road trains on the outback roads, they can be heard for miles.
Once we hit the coast based on the past everyone seems to be in a hurry to get nowhere! But we need to hit the coast as I am outta fresh Seafood!)
Tassie Travellers 