Torghatten and Trondheim

08-06-24

Torghatten

We started this morning off with some very nice views as we walked around the deck in the glorious morning sunlight. (P:- One of the “We” about an hour or so earlier than the other part of the “We”). The town of Ornes was just a 10 minute stop but as we cruised along the fjord we were treated to some great reflections and stunning views. This morning the waters are flat with barely a ripple. Again small villages dot the waters edge with Ferry stops at many of them.

Later in the morning we crossed the Arctic Circle with a special ceremony to celebrate and as a memory we got to keep a special inscribed teaspoon only after tasting Cod Liver Oil (disgusting). We all received our spoons.

3pm we docked in Bronnoysund where we boarded a bus to Torghatten for a hike up the mountain. This is a granite dome on the island of Torget. It is known for its hole through the centre. This lovely hike up many stone steps leads us to the hole which looks deceivingly small from a distance but in fact is large enough for our ship to pass through. The 35 metre high tunnel was carved by the sea thousands of years ago or if you listen to the troll stories from the guides, it was created when the troll king threw his hat into the air to deflect an arrow fired at the Maiden of Leka by an enraged horseman who was chasing her. Just as the arrow pierced the hat, the sun rose and all were turned to stone. ( Believe it or not). Dimensions of the hole 167m long, 29-59 m high, 10-28m wide.

A great walk and good views from the top, all finished off with tea and coffee and Lefse (a crepe filled with cinnamon butter. Very tasty. (P:-And extremely sweet)!

Back at the ship we prepare for the Captains Dinner, a five course dinner, 2 starters, a main and 2 desserts. I assumed that the Captains dinner would include seeing the Captain but he was a no show.

( P:- been hearing and learning lot about Trolls! Good Trolls, Bad Trolls – it appears to me to be the afterlife careers of our politicians).

09-06-24

Trondheim

6.30am this morning we arrived in Trondheim for a 3 hour stop. To make the most of this we are up and ready to disembark as soon as the gangway is opened. Our destination is the Nidaros Cathedral. It’s drizzly with a light breeze but this doesn’t stop us. Helen is our navigator as we wander through the streets and along the river to the cathedral. It was definitely worth our walk to see this lovely building. The church is the burial site of King Olaf 11, who became the patron saint of Norway. It was built over a 230 year period from 1070 to 1300. Many additions and renovations have occurred since. In 1708 and 1719 it was destroyed by fire leaving only the stone walls. Major rebuilding and restoration began on 1869 and was officially completed in 2001. Being early morning the church isn’t open but the exterior is amazing. Next door is the Archbishops Palace, where the Archbishop lived in medieval times. This is one of the best preserved in Europe. (P:- Best not forget the Kings Stables a beautiful rustic building complete with hay loft and an old manual lift bridge over the river, both old and well restored/ preserved).

We wander back through the town centre and reboard ready for a hearty breakfast.

Late afternoon we’re off on the Atlantic Road Tour. Departing from Kristiansund we drove through the town centre then over the first of many of todays bridges. Kristiansund is made up of four main islands. An undersea tunnel connects Kristiansund to Averoy. The tunnel is almost 6 kilometres long and the deepest part is 250 metres deep, making it one of the deepest undersea tunnels in the world. Leaving Averoy we drive through lovely countryside dotted with small farms, red painted barns and houses and spot flocks of heritage sheep and lambs. There are three main colours of houses. Ochre, red and white.

In Norway it is tradition to paint your home. Red was the traditional colour as it was cheap, being made from a combination of ochre, cod live oil and animal blood. If you were wealthy you painted the house white, the most expensive colour.

Our first stop was the Kvernes Stavkirke (Stave Church). A Stave church is a medieval wooden church, once common in Norway. The staves refers to the posts used to construct the church and its usually built with no nails. This was built during the 14th century. The walls and ceilings are richly painted with rosemaling, a form of decorative painting. (P:- Bordering on seeing a few too many churches and cathedrals but this old relic is quite impressive, Must a had a lot of kids like me attend at one stage in history as every (typical uncomfortable) pew had a lockable door I assume to keep parishioners locked in through a tedious and boring sermon).

After we leave the church (P:- Judith omitted to say we visit a more modern church next door)! We continue to drive through farm land and quaint towns until we reach our next destination. We stop at Bjartmars Favorittkro Tavern for our dinner, where Klipfish is on offer. Klipfish is cod, salted and dried for 2-3 months on large racks outside in the sun. When you are ready to prepare it, you soak in water for 3-5 days changing the water twice daily, then cook as if fresh. Philip thought it was great. (P:- always great to try the local traditional food). The rest of us decided to pass and enjoyed a chicken meal.

Our next stop is the Atlantic Road. This is an 8.3 kilometres road that runs through an archipelago in Hustadvika and Averoy. (P:- part of a 3 hour road trip through rich farm land, dairy farms, holiday homes dotted with marine and Granite mountain vistas). It is built on several small islands which are connected with causeways, viaducts and bridges, the most prominent being the Storseisudet bridge A great piece of engineering.

(P:-Stepping back a few weeks, when we was on the Amtrack train across North America we dined with a couple from Washington D.C. He was telling us that the granite belt we were seeing in Glacier National Park extended up and through Scandinavia, this ended up being interesting information as we sail and drive down through the granite boulders and Islands of Norway).

From here we return to the ship for our last night aboard.