Land at Last

06-05-24

Kodiak Island.

As I opened our curtains this morning I was greeted with an awesome sight of snow capped mountains, islands and land. Solid, unmoving land. What a wonderful sight as the sun kissed the tops of the mountains and the clouds revealed a blue sky. (P:-Wow that description sounds as if we have been in stormy seas for weeks)!! We are tendering ashore today and we are in the second group to go so we’re on the move early to have breakfast and clear customs and be ready for our tour at 8.30. We are catching a shuttle out to Fort Abercrombie, a 4.5 mile drive northeast of Kodiak. This was built by the US Army during WW11 to defend against a Japanese Invasion that never came due to Kodiak’s lousy weather which kept the Japanese Bombers away from the island. The area is now a 182 acre state historical park which sits on the cliffs above scenic Monashka Bay. Remains of the buildings are now being reclaimed by the surrounding trees and moss, with lovely walking tracks past moss covered trees and Lake Gertrude. This was a lovely way to start the day and get our land legs again.

We returned back to the centre of town enjoying a lovely chat with the bus driver on the way. Kodiak is the main city, one of seven communities, on Kodiak Island, with a population of around 5,500 people. It’s the 10th largest city in Alaska. Kodiak is a commercial fishing hub. The Port of Kodiak covers an area of 90 acres and is one of the busiest and largest commercial fishing harbours in America. It is home to around 1000 fishing vessels and is second only to Dutch Harbour in value of product landed and tonnage processed. It is the only port in Alaska where all commercial fish species are processed on shore. It is also a transportation hub for Southcentral Alaska, with supplies sent from Kodiak to Southwest Alaska, Dutch Harbour. Fish are also shipped directly from Kodiak to the Far East.

We stopped at Henry’s Bar for lunch as recommended by our bus driver. “Best Hamburgers in Town”. She wasn’t wrong, they were very tasty but were massive. I could have fed a family of four with my meal. We were lucky and found a table as soon as we walked in but those that followed had to wait until tables became free. Locals and tourist filled all the tables all with mountainous meals in front of them. Never saw anyone eat everything on their plates, they must waste a lot of food, but the line out the door says something about their popularity.

After lunch we wandered the central town area, visiting the Russian Orthodox Churches, the various wharf areas to watch fish being unloaded or goods being loaded before boats depart, found an little fibre arts shop stuffed full of wool and fibres in all colours of the rainbow, various souvenir shops and boats of all shapes and sizes and numerous canneries for fish processing. The air here has an underlying smell of fish, stronger near the canneries and around the floating docks but evident everywhere. (P:- not having the sense of smell may have been a clear advantage for me today). I guess people become used to the smell after a while. By 2.30 we have seen most of this part of the town and head back to the dock to wait for our tender ride back to the Westerdam.

(P:- Our shuttle was a yellow school bus which came directly from the school run, on our return into town it was just Judith and I aboard. The Lady Driver chatted away, telling us that the Brown Bear on Kodiak Island is Genetically different to its mainland cousins. It can stand up to 10’ (3m) tall, it doesn’t really hibernate like it’s cousins and the younger males are very active through their frozen winter. They are often seen around town scavenging and are part of life to the residents. I like working and industrial towns, way better than the touristy places, the people are friendly. The massive Burger Lunch (without rice) reminded us we are now on USA soil, Portion size has increased and even I couldn’t eat all I was served! A walk around the docks and Marinas had us discussing how crazy the Bering Sea fishermen are fishing the wildest of waters in rugged but not very big boats. I have noted to return to the Aleutian Peninsula one day to explore it further but thought it prudent not to mention it to my “Smoother Water” sailing wife for a while)!