3 – 8th
Oh no! This means we are nearing the end of our trip. But a few days to fill in before we reach Anchorage so we are on the road again.
After the thrill of seeing the Northern Lights at Chena we had a later start to the day, leaving the hot springs mid morning and returning back to Fairbanks. The day is overcast and gloomy with just a faint dusting of snow left on the hilltops. Back in Fairbanks we visit a couple of stores we wanted to see, spent some time in the old city centre and drove up around the University of Alaska and checked out some of their farm research area. Before stopping for lunch overlooking the very impressive University grounds. After lunch we pointed our noses south and slowly wandered along, enjoying the road trip, some of which was on the old Highway. We stopped for a look at the old mining town of Ester, which was founded around 1900. All it is today is a collection of dirt streets, old log homes and massive tailing piles from dredging for gold.
Continuing down the road we reach Nenana, where we plan to stay for the night. Parking up we rug up and take off for a walk around the town. This town sits at the confluence of the Nenana and Tanana Rivers. It’s claim to fame is the Nenana Ice Classic. This is a lottery based on guessing when the river ice will break up in April or May. This has been run since 1917. Guesses are made to the day, hour and minute that the ice breaks and the tripod stops the timer. The tripod must move 100 feet downstream for the timer to stop. Last year there were two winners guessing the exact time. Prize money of over $300,000 to be split between the winners!
We visited the small native craft/information centre where we chatted to a lady there doing some beadwork on moose hide. The hide was so soft and looked just like felt. Her needle just slipped through it. The hide she was using had been tanned the traditional way with the brains of the animal. She showed us some hide that was tanned using modern methods and she couldn’t push the needle through it. A full tanned moose hide is over $2000 to purchase. They also had some fur skin samples there from a Beaver, lynx, wolverine and wolf. It was interesting to feel the difference between the furs.
Later in the evening we watched several trains pass us and cross the river. To do that the trains have to do a big loop before crossing the bridge.
Next morning we continue south towards Denali National Park. The weather is miserable again but as we are driving it doesn’t matter much. We head into the visitors centre and check out some of the displays and watch a couple of short movies about the park. We had thought we might go further into the park but with the weather miserable it’s not worth it.
(P- as we were wandering outside the visitors centre an old guy comes up and says “Dang it’s freezing boy and you are wearing shorts” I wore them into Alaska, wore them in freezing weather at the Arctic Ocean and plan to be still wearing them as we leave Alaska – just a personal challenge). So we continue driving south. The weather starts to clear as we get further south and more of the mountains are becoming visible. The fall colours are again showing their beautiful colours. By the time we reach Denali View North Campground the sky is turning blue and the Alaska Range is becoming visible. We decide to camp here for the night in the hopes that Mt McKinley will be visible at some stage.
Lots of people pull up here and take photos but there is no sign to point to exactly which mountain is McKinley. Philip thinks it’s still behind the clouds but everyone is taking pics of the picturesque mountain in view. Later in the evening Mt McKinley eventually reveals itself but it’s no where near as impressive to look at as what we now know is Mt Deception. We have had a lovely evening though sitting by the fire and cooking our dinner while watching the ever changing view.
(P- My trusty gps maps and compass was telling me the beautiful fully clear mountain wasn’t Mt.McKinley, but with everyone taking photos of it I started to disbelieve my judgement. Well into the evening the “real” Mt. McKinley (Denali) unveils itself from the cloud. This viewing is our third this vacation, all from different areas. How lucky are we! Statistics tell us less than 30% of visitors see USA’s highest mountain as it is usually covered by cloud. Only one other vehicle in the normally crowded campground tonight. Over the last 3 weeks there have been less and less fellow travellers – it’s getting cold and they appear to have all gone home! When we wake this majestic mountain is again hidden deep in cloud. I wonder how many people have a photo of aptly named Mt Deception thinking it is Mt McKinley?)
Tuesday 5th
Today we continue our way south towards Palmer where Philip wants to check out some farming areas and then we want to visit the Musk Ox Farm. We noticed this small area of farming when we visited the State Fair. Also happened to take a wrong turn and drove around a beautiful subdivision. Some very impressive homes and gardens.
(P-Palmer is a valley north of Anchorage, and has a milder climate, (only frozen for 7 or 8 months of the year!) For many years there has been a thriving vegetable industry here through the summer months, Temperate crops similar to what we grow in Tasmania except short growing season varieties. The crops looked good and to me very interesting. Harvest of potatoes was about to commence.)
The Musk Ox Farm was very interesting. It is a non profit farm and provides a look at the musk ox which were reintroduced to Alaska in the 1930’s. The musk ox under coat, or Qiviut is gently hand combed from the animals and sent to South America where it is cleaned, spun and dyed before being returned to be sold. Qiviut lacks the lanolin that sheeps wool has and is free of barbs and scales, making it tremendously soft and easy to wear. It is one of the warmest and softest fibres on earth.
(P- more craft materials purchased (Qiviut) – I could have nearly bought another piece of farm machinery with the cost of it! Judith is going to be busy crafting so I am hoping I won’t be noticed missing (in my workshop) when we return home!)
We continue onto Anchorage and settle into the Ship Creek RV Park for the next 3 nights. Then it’s off for a walk before dinner.
Tassie Travellers 