Bush to Beach and Back

For the last few days we have been off in the Roof Top Tent exploring some rougher roads. We left Tom Price And I had no idea where we were going! As usual Philip follows his “gut feeling” and we end up in a destination somewhere! “Pack enough food etc for 1-3 nights and see how we go” was his plan. We left the caravan in the park and headed north west up the Rio Tinto Rail Maintenance Access Road which follows along some of the rail lines heading to the coast. We hoped to see a train or two, which we did and quite a few more. These trains are very impressive from up close and although they are all the same we have to stop and watch each one pass. (P) depending on which line, approx 270 wagons and 6 locomotives. Each wagon with up to 150 tonne of iron ore! I know I have diesel and chunks of old machinery in my veins but anyone has to be impressed with these trains and for that matter the hugenessness (I know it’s spelt wrong but you will understand) of all but everything in the Pilbara!!!

The rail access road joins the main road to Mill Stream National Park so we stop in for a look at the old Homestead and points of interest as we drive past. Deep Reach on the Fortescue river is a lovely swimming spot, or would be if there wasn’t so much water from recent rains. It’s deep with lovely vegetation along the rivers edge.

The Homestead here was built in the 1920’s. It was once a thriving home on the edge of a large pastoral station. The shearer’s kitchen has been restored and is a great glimpse into the past.

Next stop on the other side of the park is Python Pool. On the road in we stop for lunch at a great outlook and have another lovely tailgate lunch enjoying the vista before us. Rolling hills, red rock cliffs, pyramid mountain and clear skies. (P) there is something special about driving thru “jump up” country ( as the pastoralists call it – hills that seem to jump up out of the surrounding flat ground) . The deep red colour of the soils and rocks in this area enhance the view more so). Python Pool is a gorgeous location with a lovely blue pool at the base of the escarpment. Shear red rock walls rise up from the water and almost enclose this lovely spot. From here we follow the road out to the NW Coastal Highway, driving through grazing country. It is so green here and contrasts beautifully with the red rock escarpments that litter the landscape. Pyramid Mountain looms before us as we near the Highway. Cattle graze on the lush grass and water lays along the road in low lying areas on Pyramid station. Truckies are heard talking on the radio about how green and lush it is. Some commenting they have never seen it like this. It certainly makes for lovely views.

We find a lovely campsite at Clearville Beach and camp on the dunes that run along the bay. Great view of ocean tonight making a change from countryside. We walk along the beach and collect a few rocks as we go. The rocks here are lovely. Lots of different colours and patterns as shown by the photos below. A nice fire, (we need a fire a 27 degrees) to keep the bugs away and a lovely dinner fill our evening in.

This morning before we leave the coast and head back inland. We drive round to Point Sampson and Dampier to check out some of the mining infrastructure and port facilities here. Couldn’t really see much but as usual Philip is intrigued with it all. A stop in at Karratha for a couple of things at the supermarket and a drive around the town area. Karratha is a nice little service town and caters well to all manner of interests here. Every second house in the area has a boat and/or caravan sitting out the front. Obviously fishing is good here. No lack of money in these towns.

Back on the road and again we are following a rail access route back inland. Plenty of trains today. All the drivers give a toot as they speed past. Trains today have 3 engines up front 133 wagons another 2 engines and another 133 wagons. A pretty impressive sight. We have no set destination today so are just following the roads where ever they lead. Our night is spent on the roadside grader turn around area on Hooley Station. Not another soul for miles and clear skies with a great view of the milky way. A small fire, a gentle breeze and an enjoyable dinner fill in the evening again.

First stop this morning is Wittenoom. Originally an asbestos mining town but the area was declared a contaminated site. The site covers an area of 120,000 acres, the largest contaminated site in the Southern Hemisphere. Large signs at the entrances to the town say Do Not Stop. Nothing says you can’t drive through, so that’s just what we did. (As one would expect Philip to do). As we were driving through two vehicles came toward us one stopping to tell us to follow the road into the gorge where the mine site is visible. It is a gorgeous drive in crossing the riverbed numerous times before coming to a large pool. Gorgeous cliffs abound on both sides of the road. The sun is in just the right position and the cliffs almost glow. Climbing out at the road end asbestos tailings are clearly visible among the rocks on the ground and seams in the rock walls. It’s hard to believe that this is such a deadly material when you are working with it. In contrast to the asbestos the scenery is picturesque and the wildflowers are thriving.

P) Witternoom for a few years was a thriving town until the tragic effects of Asbestos was discovered. To date in excess of 30% of the miners in this town passed away from asbestos related disease! A horror story ! The town has been officially delisted and no longer shows on new maps. The most beautiful gorge drive could not erase the sadness of this place. Whilst there were beautiful potential camp sites here it wasn’t on the agenda – a bitter sweet part of the day), There are few homes left in the town site and only 3 or 4 people reside here now. What homes are left are falling into decay. It’s hard to imagine that just the other side of the range is Karijini National Park.

Continuing further we come to another part of the rail access route. Which takes us along the Roy Hill Road and although you don’t get views of the mine the trucks that bring ore out are numerous. 25 road trains in 40 kilometres. All the drivers are friendly and give a wave as they pass.

Tonight we are camped at another roadside stop ready to watch the super moon eclispse and we are not disappointed. We had clear views and the clouds stayed away.